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  • H80N
    replied
    Originally posted by Olivero View Post
    No kidding. Wow, had no idea such a rod existed.

    Gotta get my hands on some of those, how do they work? Still have to preheat and tap it with a hammer?
    I don't do lot of cast iron these days but do like a LOT of preheat and depending on the size gas grill or big charcoal fire provides the heat...

    and yes I stitch and hammer peen the welds... then bury in sand or embers for very slow cool
    Last edited by H80N; 05-19-2016, 04:47 PM.

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  • Olivero
    replied
    No kidding. Wow, had no idea such a rod existed.

    Gotta get my hands on some of those, how do they work? Still have to preheat and tap it with a hammer?

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    Originally posted by Olivero View Post
    I was told it was cast steel, not sure how to tell them apart.

    Silbronze? like silica bronze? never head of albronze?

    Cronatron? Are these just brand names?

    I got silica bronze rods, 5053, 4043, 4049, 308L, 316L, mild steel and copper rods. what is best to use? I read something about using nickel or copper based rods but then again, not sure whats best.
    A grinder "Spark Test" can tell you the difference

    https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...2Spark+Test%22


    Silicon Bronze & Aluminum Bronze

    Yes Cronatron 211 is a trade name ( I think Nickel based)

    https://www.lawsonproducts.com/Crona...Wire/CW1901.lp

    Last edited by H80N; 05-19-2016, 04:48 PM.

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  • Olivero
    replied
    I was told it was cast steel, not sure how to tell them apart.

    Silbronze? like silica bronze? never head of albronze?

    Cronatron? Are these just brand names?

    I got silica bronze rods, 5053, 4043, 4049, 308L, 316L, mild steel and copper rods. what is best to use? I read something about using nickel or copper based rods but then again, not sure whats best.
    Last edited by Olivero; 05-19-2016, 04:13 PM. Reason: Meant to say cast steel, accidentally wrote cast iron.

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    Would bet that base is most likely cast iron not steel...

    Steel would have deformed not cracked...

    316L works ....either way...so would Silbronze or Albronze...

    I use Cronatron 211 just because I have it

    preheat and slow cool will help avoid cracking
    Last edited by H80N; 05-19-2016, 04:12 PM.

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  • Olivero
    started a topic Cast Steel Welding

    Cast Steel Welding

    Hello Fellow Welders!

    I had the base on my drill press break as someone tried to beat something straight on it... It broke off one of the corners so when I try to use it, it falls towards me which is very annoying as I can't focus on drilling my hole while preventing the press from falling on me.

    So I took the base off, beveled the seams from the broken pieces, cleaned them with paint thinner and pulled out my 316L rod and Tigged it with my trusty Dynasty 200 at 130 Amps. Worked surprisingly well and only had a few minor cracks across parts of the beads. totaled of about 5 beads on each side (it was a 1/4" thick so I did both sides) Tried to do it as fast I could to keep the expansion and contraction rate as even as possible and it turned out pretty well, like i said, only a few cracks

    But is there a way to have no cracks? Did I just get lucky or did I do it properly? the only other cast items I do are aluminum or iron like for a kitchen unit with a flame under it. Just wanting to get your input on how you would do it.

    I would attach a picture but when I walked out the shop, my good Samaritan co-worker remounted the base and spray painted it so now you can't really see the welds properly anymore.

    Anyways, any advice is appreciated for next time.


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