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  • #16
    DC Only?!? The Sneaky Devils!

    #%&R(&%!! The search goes on.

    Who knows? Maybe, all unwittingly, I made the best purchase possible, all by accident. I just wish it had a little more oomph in stick. But then, if I keep to 3/32 electrodes, all is well within capabilities.

    OK. A step up in Lincoln.
    http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...incolnElectric)
    $2,300. 2/3 the price of Syncrowave, half the weight, and roughly the same size as Econotig. Would fit on the cart. A lot more power than Econotig. Probably do 1/8 and 5/32 electrodes just fine.

    (heavy sigh) Probably parts made in Lesotho, sub-assembly in Myanmar, and final assembly in Uruguay. All the liberals in my youth yearned for equality across the globe. Be careful what you wish for.
    Last edited by buffumjr; 05-20-2016, 07:17 AM.
    ____________________________________________

    I don't need to find myself. I'm always at my lathe.

    Comment


    • #17
      What model was that again...?? the link goes into space..??

      At the $2400 range you hve some better options

      While Italian made & a small company... these guys have MUCH better rep for support than Linc..

      http://www.usaweld.com/TIG-WELDER-In...70221-12.5.htm

      At least they stand behind their stuff... unlike the little Lincs that have a rep for detonating

      Not a Miller... But I have heard good things about them...

      BTW... Have you looked at the Miller SYNC 210 Package..??

      https://www.millerwelds.com/equipmen...10-tig-welders

      It's a nice package and comes COMPLETE... ready to run... if you compare fully equipped welders.. it looks very good.... ( USA Made BTW..)

      https://www.millerwelds.com/~/media/.../c/b/ad4-6.pdf

      .
      Last edited by H80N; 05-20-2016, 11:46 AM.
      .

      *******************************************
      The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

      “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

      Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

      My Blue Stuff:
      Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
      Dynasty 200DX
      Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
      Millermatic 200

      TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

      Comment


      • #18
        I have an HTP 221 and use it all the time. I need a water cooler for it, that's about all I can say I'd do again. The only thing I don't like about it is if you want to stick weld with it, you must unplug the foot pedal. Unless you want to control the stick arc with the foot pedal that is.

        What I need to do is find some time to get Helga up and running at full speed...thinking about a DIY water cooler for that one.

        Comment


        • #19
          The Lincoln was the Precision TIG® 225 TIG Welder - K2533-2 .

          The USAWeld product DOES look good.

          Saving slowly. Next year, I'll be ready.

          Still practicing TIG and 3/32 stick.
          ____________________________________________

          I don't need to find myself. I'm always at my lathe.

          Comment


          • #20
            Been practicing stick. Egad, but it's a tough skill to learn. MIG was so much easier. The trouble I am having is starting the arc. If I have the voltage high enough to maintain an arc reliably, the weld shows symptoms of over amperage. If I cut back the amps, I get stuck a lot. When in lower amp mode, when the arc does deign to start, I get a very nice looking weld, though it is a bit high in the center.

            The stick is 3/32" 6011. The current is between 80% and 85% for a 130 amp capability.

            I spent a lot of time cleaning the metal I'm practicing on.

            Making myself a deal. I will not consider upgrading until I get good in both TIG and stick.

            Stick is tough.
            ____________________________________________

            I don't need to find myself. I'm always at my lathe.

            Comment


            • #21
              The only thing "easy" about mig welding is doing it poorly. It may look good, but it's easy to have cold lap and lack of fusion. I hear it all too often, "mig welding is easy." I assure you, there are plenty of things that are not what you expect....penetration, fusion, etc. <br />
              <br />
              6011 is a rod for AC welding. Although many people are finding them useful on DC inverter machines that won't run cellulose coated rods like 6010. That type of rod (6010 & 6011) also requires some sort of manipulation, generally, to run well. Whip and pause, some sort of weave if your amperage is set high enough, something. <br />
              <br />
              Stick is tough. I've found getting good at it is an excellent addition to your arsenal. Lately, I've found myself using the nastiest, rustiest, oldest metal I had to do a few jobs. Stick was the process of choice due to the poor surface condition of the steel. It's worth getting good at. I generally use 6011 and 7018 on pretty much all my jobs for stick welding. Which is not a surprise really.

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              • #22
                buffumjr.................

                somebody turned the lights off in your avatar............



                AAAHHhhh... Lights back on... much better...

                Last edited by H80N; 05-21-2016, 07:51 PM.
                .

                *******************************************
                The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

                “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

                Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

                My Blue Stuff:
                Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
                Dynasty 200DX
                Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
                Millermatic 200

                TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
                  The only thing "easy" about mig welding is doing it poorly. It may look good, but it's easy to have cold lap and lack of fusion. I hear it all too often, "mig welding is easy." I assure you, there are plenty of things that are not what you expect....penetration, fusion, etc. <br />
                  <br />
                  6011 is a rod for AC welding. Although many people are finding them useful on DC inverter machines that won't run cellulose coated rods like 6010. That type of rod (6010 & 6011) also requires some sort of manipulation, generally, to run well. Whip and pause, some sort of weave if your amperage is set high enough, something. <br />
                  <br />
                  Stick is tough. I've found getting good at it is an excellent addition to your arsenal. Lately, I've found myself using the nastiest, rustiest, oldest metal I had to do a few jobs. Stick was the process of choice due to the poor surface condition of the steel. It's worth getting good at. I generally use 6011 and 7018 on pretty much all my jobs for stick welding. Which is not a surprise really.
                  OK, you are advising I try AC mode with 6011. Will do. Econotig's got both. Should I AC 7018, too?

                  The thing it took awhile to get used to doing in MIG was heat. Don't be afraid of amperage. The Miller 210 can put out more than I've ever used. Nasty welds until I cranked 'er up. If I was gouging the edges, I knew I had penetration. V'ing the metal first doesn't hurt, either, and yes, cleaning helps. In machining, sometimes a piece of raw material would be a scoche short, and I could MIG fill an extension. Saved a trip to my friendly neighborhood industrial surplus store. LOVE my MIG!

                  Antmore, I just use my torch for bending, cutting, brazing, and silver soldering with high silver alloy. Now that I have TIG, all my thin stuff will be TIG.
                  ____________________________________________

                  I don't need to find myself. I'm always at my lathe.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    7018 is a DC rod unless the package says it's for AC. <br />
                    <br />
                    There are benefits for both, but altogether, DC is a smoother arc. <br />
                    <br />
                    Growing up in the farm, I didn't even know there were other welding rods besides 6011 and 7018. Some people call 6011 a farmer rod, probably because it burns through rust, paint and cow poop. Getting acceptable at running those rods will make you happy. <br />
                    <br />
                    I prefer to use Lincoln fleetweld 5p+ in a 6010 and I've come to like the Lincoln Excalibur 7018. I have heard a lot of good about the esab atom arc 7018, so I bought 10lbs of it, just haven't used it yet. My rod oven only holds 10lbs. Which is another problem to think about. Your 7018 doesn't like moisture. I don't burn through it like a lot of guys do, so I only buy 10lbs at a time and I have a small rod oven. It needs to be dry and kept warm to keep out the water or it will make you sad when you weld. <br />
                    <br />
                    I also prefer to use 1/8" rod most of the time. With the 3/32 I find I'm too dadgum shakey and getting started with it is a pain because I have steady hands like Hillary Clinton tells the truth. It's amplified with the whip and pause technique I use with the 6010/6011 rods too.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      6011 will run Ac or DC- or DC+ but if you are actually getting 130 amps that is very high for 3/32" rod. If you look here you can find the recommended range for Lincoln electrodes http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...olnElectric%29
                      You can order their "Welding Consumables" book for free or just download it.
                      You can also find similar information on the Hobart brand of electrodes on their web site as in here http://www.hobartbrothers.com/produc...lectrodes.html
                      Both are excellent resources to put you in the ball park and both have recommendations for MIG wire as well. You can download Hobart"s catalogue as well.---Meltedmetal

                      You might also try 1/8" 6011 as you may find it is easier to run.
                      ---Meltedmetal

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