Converting Miller Numbers

[jor]

I just bought a 211 and am having a great time screwing around with it (never owned a welder). Anyhow, is there a document available that converts the Miller dial numbers to actual volts and inches per minute? For example, in welding 1/8" the recommended setting is #6 for voltage and #70 for wire speed. Sure would like to know what those numbers mean. Thanks.
jor

[ryanjones2150]

Not sure how to convert the voltage, but for wire feed speed it's easy to figure out. I've done it for all of my wire welders. <br />
<br />
Shut off the shielding gas<br />
Open the side of your machine<br />
Start at the first letter or number and pull the trigger<br />
Hold it down for a set amount of time (did 10 seconds)<br />
Then measure the wire length from the tip of the wire to the contact tip<br />
Then multiply by whatever number you need to get sixty seconds (for me it was 10 seconds, so the length in inches X 6; e.g. 21" X 6 = 126" over 1 minute)<br />
When you get done, pop the tension doofloppy and rewind the wire then repeat for each digit. <br />
<br />
I recorded the results on the inside of the wire spool compartment door. <br />
<br />
I repeated each tear twice to verify that number. Then I tested it with some recommended settings and it seemed to be pretty close. <br />
<br />
As far as the voltage, I would imagine the knob is a percentage of the machine capacity, so figure out the max and divide it up.

[aametalmaster]

Try page 33 in the manual...Bob https://www.millerwelds.com/files/ow...65809B_MIL.pdf

[jor]

Thanks for the tip on ipm, Ryan. I will do that tomorrow.
Bob, I have that same manual; page 33 is blank for notes. Couldn't find anything that indicated the numbers to voltage.
jor

[Meltedmetal]

I think he is referring to page 29 in the manual which is the weld parameters chart. The counter at the top of the screen shows it as page 33. I don't think the actual voltage number is that important. If it is too cold turn it up, if it is too hot turn it down. When you find what you want, record the knob setting for future reference. You could employ a helper and install a volt meter on the system to check while you are welding but I suspect you would get some fluctuation in voltage anyway depending on how well you can maintain a constant stick out.---Meltedmetal

[buffumjr]

Hi, Guys!

I have an Econotig. Old machine. 2003? Just bought it. Same problem with the dial. It gives the current in percentages, rather than amps. I see from Jor's post I'm not the only one trying to figure this out. Yeah, what I plan to do is learn what it means by experience. Lotta waste, there.

Still, if you Miller engineers are reading this, the actual volts or amps would be nicer than trying to WAG from a percentage. The Chinese machines mostly have readouts that give volts or amps, rather than percentages.

I have a 211, too. Since 2002. Will NEVER sell it! I find that going one number higher than the chart says for thicker steel gives stronger welds. Bites in better. For the thinner steel, the chart is very close.

[jor]

I don't think the actual voltage number is that important. If it is too cold turn it up, if it is too hot turn it down. When you find what you want, record the knob setting for future reference.

Yea, I'm just curious. I've now logged about three hours of actual welding so I'm well on my way to becoming a master welder! Anyhow, after laying down some pretty decent welds on 1/8" I started fooling around with the voltage and wire speed to see what would happen. I now have a pretty good idea of what to expect when the voltage is too high or too low and the wire speed is to high or too low. I'll keep looking for the real voltage number. Thanks.
jor

[buffumjr]

The most fun thing to do is to create something to destroy it. Make up several pieces of freshly cleaned steel, all in the same configuration for welding. Decide what parameters you want to test. Test one on a joint. Destroy the piece with a hammer. Record how many blows, how heavy the hammer, etc. Vary the parameter and weld the next. Destroy that one and record. Do that until you run out of parameters. A fun day beating stuff to pieces! In science, this is called "empiricism", or doing it so you can see for yourself. By the time you are done, you'll have had a good time making noise, and a great handle on what works, and what doesn't, and what just doesn't matter.

I've had my welder since 2002, and I'm not yet a master. How did you get there so fast?

[aametalmaster]

I have been mig welding for 38 years and prob 33 of them was with an unmetered machine or a machine with a broken meter. I agree if its too cold turn it up and too hot turn it down. Since most steel isn't exactly the same thickness you get used to what you need when you see it and where to set it. Now if you are welding off a set of parameters to a WP then that's different but I don't think a hobby welding machine will be used. But that's just me...Bob

[ryanjones2150]

Also take into consideration your technique. A different technique will give you a different result with the same machine settings. I can't say for sure, but I bet the digits on the dial and the recommendations on the inside of the door would be closer to correct without consideration of electrode manipulation.

[jor]

Thanks to all. I think I'll try the destruction scheme. Sounds like a good way to learn.
jor

[Broccoli1]

http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/showthread.php?27631-Amps-Volts-amp-Wire-Feed-Speed

[Broccoli1]

Hi, Guys!

I have an Econotig. Old machine. 2003? Just bought it. Same problem with the dial. It gives the current in percentages, rather than amps. I see from Jor's post I'm not the only one trying to figure this out. Yeah, what I plan to do is learn what it means by experience. Lotta waste, there.

Still, if you Miller engineers are reading this, the actual volts or amps would be nicer than trying to WAG from a percentage. The Chinese machines mostly have readouts that give volts or amps, rather than percentages.

I have a 211, too. Since 2002. Will NEVER sell it! I find that going one number higher than the chart says for thicker steel gives stronger welds. Bites in better. For the thinner steel, the chart is very close.

Your manual has a chart for the % to amperage.

https://www.millerwelds.com/files/owners-manuals/O303V_MIL.pdf

section 6-1

[buffumjr]

Your manual has a chart for the % to amperage.

https://www.millerwelds.com/files/owners-manuals/O303V_MIL.pdf

section 6-1

Thanks. Yes. That will be sooooooo useful! I'll tape that to the side of the machine. Still, a readout, like on the Longevity or the AHP, would help with fine tuning. If some kludgemeister out there hacks a readout for the Econotig, I'd be happy to download it, and try it out.

Thrilled with my Econotig. So far...

[Broccoli1]

Well those are newer machines and Miller does offer the same readouts on their new TIG machines.