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Bought a new to me Airco Dip/Stick 160 multiprocess welder
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Can anyoneasily who can read this wiring diagram tell me what way the capacitors should be as in polarity to the bus bar that connects to the rectifer bridge as seen in the picture. I really think I have them in correct but I don't understand if the diagram explains this
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The hvac guy came over and took a look at the wiring diagram and he said the way they have this wired is crazy, he's never seen anything like it. We both think the contactor is the issue he doesn't think it's the caps and told me to do the contactor and limit switch and if that doesn't work then replace the caps
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Ordered the new contactor with the limit switch or whatever it's called. I noticed they did piggy back 2 wires on the limit switch to 1 of the 3 prongs. Should have it by the end of the week. Hopefully I'll be up and running.
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I found a coil with all the same specs as mine that already has a micro relay switch on the side, my question is mine has 3 posts on the micro on the top side, this new one only has 2 and I need 3. Could I just splice 2 of the wires together to make it work on the new 2 post micro switch?
Or does each post act differently even tho there on the top side?
I assume it doesn't matter as long as I keep my wires that are on the top on the top and splicing 2 together would be fine just want to double check.
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I borrowed a fluke multimeter from work that's meant for testing contactor to see if coils are AC or DC, my coil is 24v AC . I hit the trigger on the mig gun with it hooked up and got a reading of 0. So something is wrong with it, I also checked the resistance on each pole and 1 was alright the other were alot lower.
The left spring were it keeps arcing is extremely weak feeling compared to the others. I'm referring to the one that's discolored. I found a mars brand 3 pole 240v 30-40 amp 180 L.R.A 24v coil contactor for $26 bucks so I'm going to buy that and I'm still waiting on the coils. Hopefully between the both my problems will be solved
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I wish I could figure this one out that I got. I rechecked the diodes and they read fine. So luckily even it shot sparks it didn't tske out the diodes as there not cheap to replace . The new caps will be here tmrw.
I did see the lincoln power mig for 1200 today somewhere online. My lws has one for 1700 but it's got a CK or Sk upgraded tig torch with finger control and some other updates it looked really nice
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To be honest I really don't want to spend that much even tho the girlfriend says it's OK lol. We're in the process of buying our first house and I need to get us 2 new cars this winter
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Originally posted by Meltedmetal View PostNot for $1200.00 it won't. The version with the Tig set up is $1699. There may or may not still be a $200 rebate on the Lincoln. Miller is also coming out with what I presume is their answer to it in July. See the Multimatic 215 thread.---Meltedmetal
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Originally posted by Hondacivic247 View PostMy girlfriend keeps telling me not to waste my money on a used welder when I see the lincoln power mig 210 that can stick and mig and tig for $1200. I really enjoy stick welding and mig welding
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I know it's a wire feeder up there like I said I'm not familiar with electronics like this welder when it comes to the inside stuff. I must have not seen your post because I don't remember anyone saying if power should be on both sides of the contactor when the trigger isn't pressed.
I'm unsure if the shopmaster would work for me with having such a small garage at my house and the thing looks massive and not mobil but a man can dream. My girlfriend keeps telling me not to waste my money on a used welder when I see the lincoln power mig 210 that can stick and mig and tig for $1200. I really enjoy stick welding and mig welding
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you guys have been very patient...I hit that point on page 4 or 5 I think...
To the OP...that doofloppy on top of the shop master is a wire feeder. Get that thing and you will not likely have a need for another machine for as long as you live.
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