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Bought a new to me Airco Dip/Stick 160 multiprocess welder

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  • Hondacivic247
    replied
    Lol it seems that way but I'm not giving up yet I'll make a few calls to places in the Web and have someone figure it out

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  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    It's a secret code from the illuminati....means your welder is chooched.

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  • Hondacivic247
    replied
    Yeah I edited my post before after I found out that's what they were, I'm having a issue decoding them tho.

    Has a 2 in a circle then z5u then .01p, 1kv

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  • Aeronca41
    replied
    The orange things are not diodes. They are disc capacitors.

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  • Hondacivic247
    replied
    Looks like the full wave bridge rectifier is pretty cheap so maybe I'll pick up a new one if I still have issues and I'll poke at mine tonight with the multimeter

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  • Hondacivic247
    replied
    Figured out that the orange things are ceramic capacitors, thought I read they were some sort of diodes but deffintly not a diode. Now I just have to figure out what the specs are it's a Z5U OPL. Or OPI, 1kv
    Last edited by Hondacivic247; 06-06-2016, 09:15 AM.

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  • Hondacivic247
    replied
    I seen something kinda like it called a full wave bridge rectifer ?

    I think it is because I believe I have AC going into it and it puts dc out for the wire feed motor I'll have to track down where the wires are going to and from. I looked at my pictures looks like one wire goes to the limit switch on the side of the contactor and another wire runs to the rheostat they use for the wire speed and one orange or brown wire runs to the spot stich panel.
    Last edited by Hondacivic247; 06-06-2016, 05:50 AM.

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  • Hondacivic247
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  • Hondacivic247
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  • Hondacivic247
    replied
    Can anyone tell me what the heck this thing does that has the orange caps? Or whatever they are I've looked around online and haven't been able to figure it out.

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  • Hondacivic247
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    I did notice that the big piece of iron that goes around the large upper and lower copper windings gets warm when the machine is just running idle if anyone has any clues to that. I made sure all the wires on the selector switch were tight and in the correct spot which I knew they would be as I never messed with them and the machine worked fine until I had pulled the caps and tested the diodes. I noticed when I put the machine into dc positive or negative for stick welding it would arc at the selector switch along with the contactor

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  • Hondacivic247
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  • Hondacivic247
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    I followed the wire from my selector switch I labeled as many wires as I could so I'm not having to count to 21 as there's a total of 21 posts on the selector switch.

    Theyou have a small transformer which runs to the to a bolt in the rectifer bridge which the diodes tails connect on along with a bank of 3 capacitors on the positive terminal which has a jumper wire over to the other Bank of 2 capacitors on the positive terminal. On the opposite side of the rectifier bridge they have one wireason that runs to the contactor which is hooked up to the tails of the diodes all on one bolt. Then I believe they have one wire connected on the bridge to the top coil on the main transformer, it gets confessing with the other 2 wires coming off the one side of the rectifier bridge as they go to the selector bUT they have them jumping 2 terminalstage together one some to different places in the machine.

    The negative wire runs from the bank of 3 caps to the bank of 2 caps then up to the selector switch #4 terminal.

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  • Aeronca41
    replied
    Correct. Note that the + side of the diode bridge to the left is wired to the straight side of the caps.

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  • Meltedmetal
    replied
    Standard convention is the straight bar is the positive. I don't know if the diagram follows that convention but it should.


    ---Meltedmetal

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