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Bought a new to me Airco Dip/Stick 160 multiprocess welder

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  • Originally posted by Hondacivic247 View Post

    I would say they do, they have a rubber nipple on the top that I was assuming would let go first before the can explodes but maybe that served as a way of filling them?
    TOTALLY inadequate for the massive overheating and gas overpressure that can occur nearly instantaniously when fed AC or DC polarity is reversed

    Modern caps usually have an "X" stamped into the top of the can... weakening it so it will split and vent the gas BEFORE it reaches dangerous pressures



    Note: on this failed cap the can is balooned with the top split

    Lacking such safety features the old ones will usually go off like a shotgun shell

    Remember... you are dealing with 50 year old technology
    Last edited by H80N; 06-01-2016, 10:57 AM.
    .

    *******************************************
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

    Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

    My Blue Stuff:
    Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200DX
    Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
    Millermatic 200

    TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

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    • What I meaneed by across the contactor you have 3 poles on the top half 3 on the bottom Springs in the middle. I thought the top ones should be powered and the bottom ones should only have voltage when the trigger is pressed on the gun. Mine read voltage on top and bottom without trigger being pressed

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      • This miller shop master 300 looks like a good deal as it's got a wire feeder, can you mig tig and stick on that setup? It's 1000 bucks with all gear pictured. Link below

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          • Originally posted by Hondacivic247 View Post
            What I meaneed by across the contactor you have 3 poles on the top half 3 on the bottom Springs in the middle. I thought the top ones should be powered and the bottom ones should only have voltage when the trigger is pressed on the gun. Mine read voltage on top and bottom without trigger being pressed
            You asked for advice but chose to ignore it when given.....

            You're Just Not Listening....

            Click image for larger version

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            Sorry if we wasted your time it seems your mind was made up ahead of time regardless of input

            I can only hope that you do not hurt yourself or anybody else
            .

            *******************************************
            The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

            “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

            Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

            My Blue Stuff:
            Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
            Dynasty 200DX
            Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
            Millermatic 200

            TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

            Comment


            • you guys have been very patient...I hit that point on page 4 or 5 I think...

              To the OP...that doofloppy on top of the shop master is a wire feeder. Get that thing and you will not likely have a need for another machine for as long as you live.

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              • How can I test these orange guys with my multimeter?

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                • I know it's a wire feeder up there like I said I'm not familiar with electronics like this welder when it comes to the inside stuff. I must have not seen your post because I don't remember anyone saying if power should be on both sides of the contactor when the trigger isn't pressed.

                  I'm unsure if the shopmaster would work for me with having such a small garage at my house and the thing looks massive and not mobil but a man can dream. My girlfriend keeps telling me not to waste my money on a used welder when I see the lincoln power mig 210 that can stick and mig and tig for $1200. I really enjoy stick welding and mig welding

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                  • Originally posted by Hondacivic247 View Post
                    My girlfriend keeps telling me not to waste my money on a used welder when I see the lincoln power mig 210 that can stick and mig and tig for $1200. I really enjoy stick welding and mig welding
                    Not for $1200.00 it won't. The version with the Tig set up is $1699. There may or may not still be a $200 rebate on the Lincoln. Miller is also coming out with what I presume is their answer to it in July. See the Multimatic 215 thread.---Meltedmetal
                    ---Meltedmetal

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                    • Originally posted by Meltedmetal View Post
                      Not for $1200.00 it won't. The version with the Tig set up is $1699. There may or may not still be a $200 rebate on the Lincoln. Miller is also coming out with what I presume is their answer to it in July. See the Multimatic 215 thread.---Meltedmetal
                      The Multi Matic 215 is around 1500 plus almost 400 for the TIG parts and you can do everything with it. Great looking machine...Bob
                      Bob Wright

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                      • To be honest I really don't want to spend that much even tho the girlfriend says it's OK lol. We're in the process of buying our first house and I need to get us 2 new cars this winter

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                        • I wish I could figure this one out that I got. I rechecked the diodes and they read fine. So luckily even it shot sparks it didn't tske out the diodes as there not cheap to replace . The new caps will be here tmrw.

                          I did see the lincoln power mig for 1200 today somewhere online. My lws has one for 1700 but it's got a CK or Sk upgraded tig torch with finger control and some other updates it looked really nice

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                          • I borrowed a fluke multimeter from work that's meant for testing contactor to see if coils are AC or DC, my coil is 24v AC . I hit the trigger on the mig gun with it hooked up and got a reading of 0. So something is wrong with it, I also checked the resistance on each pole and 1 was alright the other were alot lower.

                            The left spring were it keeps arcing is extremely weak feeling compared to the others. I'm referring to the one that's discolored. I found a mars brand 3 pole 240v 30-40 amp 180 L.R.A 24v coil contactor for $26 bucks so I'm going to buy that and I'm still waiting on the coils. Hopefully between the both my problems will be solved

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                            • I found a coil with all the same specs as mine that already has a micro relay switch on the side, my question is mine has 3 posts on the micro on the top side, this new one only has 2 and I need 3. Could I just splice 2 of the wires together to make it work on the new 2 post micro switch?

                              Or does each post act differently even tho there on the top side?

                              I assume it doesn't matter as long as I keep my wires that are on the top on the top and splicing 2 together would be fine just want to double check.

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                              • Here's the contactor and switch which is slightly different

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