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250g trailblazer shuts down after 5 mins

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  • 2000pstokeblue
    replied
    so i got an hour of time to play with it today, running it has 13.9 volts across the battery terminals, it does not lose power to the positive side of the coil when it loses spark, and the test you preform putting the positve lead of multimeter to the negative lead on coil and negative lead to ground checking for voltage while turning the flywheel by hand came back as follows.. cold battery voltage to 1.4 volts after running and immediatly after dying battery voltage to 2.6, i pulled the condensor to look for a part # to match it up and could not find any... will pull the coil and double check that in the near future

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  • 2000pstokeblue
    replied
    i don't think mine has points, it has the newer style coil?

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  • MMW
    replied
    You mentioned changing the coil but have you changed the points & condenser also? Not likely the points but bad condensers can do weird things.

    Just to recap you have changed coils, bypassed oil switch & cleaned, checked all wiring connections everywhere you can access & looked for any possibly broken or compromised wires that may be intermittently shorting.

    Things to check, is it charging? Simple volt meter test on battery while running. Points & condenser new? Hook a volt meter to input side of coil, (this should be +) does it still show 12v as it dies or do you lose 12v coming into coil? This should tell you if your problem is before or after the coil. Have you bypassed the ignition switch to rule that out.
    Last edited by MMW; 04-24-2016, 04:32 AM.

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  • Kpack
    replied
    Originally posted by 2000pstokeblue View Post
    I will recheck the coil mooseye, and to cruiser not sure I understood your post are you saying no to it shouldn't run for 5 mins on a good battery? and the charging system must be my problem based on what has gone on so far?
    What does your multimeter read at battery when running ? Should show more than 12.7 if it's charging. I believe that's what he wants to know if it is charging. The machine has to be charging .

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  • 2000pstokeblue
    replied
    I will recheck the coil mooseye, and to cruiser not sure I understood your post are you saying no to it shouldn't run for 5 mins on a good battery? and the charging system must be my problem based on what has gone on so far?

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  • mooseye
    replied
    Oh, and as I think someone mentioned, try to check it asap after it shuts down.

    I just thought of the fact that readings will be different at temp. Normal readings are at 70F.
    Last edited by mooseye; 04-22-2016, 09:33 PM. Reason: Obvious

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  • mooseye
    replied
    You may know and have checked, but the resistance between + and - coil terminals should be 2.9-3.6 ohms and between the two plug wire terminals on the coil should be 14,900-19,800 ohms.

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  • mooseye
    replied
    Maybe a double/recheck of all the ignition wiring connections? You can buy a new "bad" coil also Do you see a condenser anywhere?

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  • cruizer
    replied
    Nope, charging circuit is checked, no charge, and unit shuts down

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  • 2000pstokeblue
    replied
    so i jumped the oil sensor and i think that was definitely part of the problem, now it will run anywhere from 30 seconds to 10 mins and i can restart it immediately which i was unable to do before, i have an inline spark tester and i can watch the spark get weak and then sometimes brighten back up other times in just gets weak and then no spark and of course it just dies...don't really know where to look now..

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  • 2000pstokeblue
    replied
    and as far as charging goes if it has a fresh charged battery it should run for more than 5 mins just on the battery alone no?

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  • 2000pstokeblue
    replied
    ok, so just a jumper between the 2 terminals should take care of the oil sensor if thats the issue, and i don't think its the pump because when it stops running theres no spark when you check it

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  • cruizer
    replied
    As it runs the problem is NOT with the trigger, so flywheel removal is pointless. You want to check the charging circuit. but never boost this unit. for 13 - 14VDC. Only 2 things shut it down, oil level and not charging. And of course lack of fuel. So when the unit heats up, there may be a lack of vacumn, thus no pumpy, pumpy... This can only be rectified by installing a small 3 psi 12Vdc pump ran off the other side of the oil pressure sensor. I beleve this is the end problem after that fire wall plug. 1 side of the oil pressure is 12Vdc, the other runs to the rest of the system.

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  • 2000pstokeblue
    replied
    i cleaned the connector that goes between the motor and the welder itself it's like an 6 or 8 pin im not sure if thats the one on the firewall your referring to, and i found the oil sensor its just 2 wires can i just jump them to eliminate it from the equation? do you happen to know if the bolt for the flywheel is reverse thread there are wires going behind it id like to look/clean. thanks for the quick replies also

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  • cruizer
    replied
    Probably an Onan, oil sensor is under the left side shroud. and may be your problem. 99% of the time its with a corroded connection between the firewall and engine.

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