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What is E3 Tungsten?

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  • What is E3 Tungsten?

    Welding tungsten is so much fun lately.

    So something about 2% thoriated has radiation, but many places there's only a little effect only. What is this new E3 found it at: (https://www.weldingcity.com/tig-tung...-tungsten.html), I've been playing with tungsten to have fun, it's like being creative artwork on spot. Anyways, does it do the same job as the 2%Thoriated or is it the same as the pure tungsten outcome?

  • #2
    Originally posted by niftyweld View Post
    Welding tungsten is so much fun lately.

    So something about 2% thoriated has radiation, but many places there's only a little effect only. What is this new E3 found it at: (https://www.weldingcity.com/tig-tung...-tungsten.html), I've been playing with tungsten to have fun, it's like being creative artwork on spot. Anyways, does it do the same job as the 2%Thoriated or is it the same as the pure tungsten outcome?
    These should help

    http://www.diamondground.com/tungste...ted-info-msds/

    .

    *******************************************
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

    Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

    My Blue Stuff:
    Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200DX
    Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
    Millermatic 200

    TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

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    • #3
      Here is an earlier discussion.

      http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...53-e3-tungsten
      Nothing welded, Nothing gained

      Miller Dynasty700DX
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      Miller Dynasty200DX
      ThermalArc 400 GTSW
      MillerMatic350P
      MillerMatic200 with spoolgun
      MKCobraMig260
      Lincoln SP-170T
      Linde UCC305 (sold 2011)
      Hypertherm 1250
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      2 ea. Bridgeport
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      • #4
        Originally posted by shovelon View Post
        That is a good thread on it

        I like Blue 2% Lanth.... but am still using up a drawer full of Red 2% Thoriated.... for DC....

        (will run out by 2045....I will probably run out sooner..)
        Last edited by H80N; 04-19-2016, 01:52 PM.
        .

        *******************************************
        The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

        “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

        Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

        My Blue Stuff:
        Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
        Dynasty 200DX
        Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
        Millermatic 200

        TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

        Comment


        • #5
          By then we'll all be using laser beams from a tiny, hand held doofloppy and be welding aluminum to cast iron if we feel like it.

          Comment


          • #6
            It cuts, it welds ...

            Miller stuff:
            Dialarc 250 (1974)
            Syncrowave 250 (1992)
            Spot welder (Dayton badged)

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            • #7
              ...it's got a freakin laser beam attached to its head...

              Comment


              • #8
                E3 is an electrode that is an alloy of multiple metals used in the other types of electrodes. I use E3's and they are great, you can use them for AC and DC and any metal. Just buy a pack and take 2 out for aluminum, sharpen the rest and use them for steel, stainless, copper, brass, etc. Its a lot easier to just keep one pack on the shelf. They also last longer than thoriated according to their website.
                if there's a welder, there's a way

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Olivero View Post
                  E3 is an electrode that is an alloy of multiple metals used in the other types of electrodes. I use E3's and they are great, you can use them for AC and DC and any metal. Just buy a pack and take 2 out for aluminum, sharpen the rest and use them for steel, stainless, copper, brass, etc. Its a lot easier to just keep one pack on the shelf. They also last longer than thoriated according to their website.
                  I sharpen my tungstens for Aluminum too.... Don't you..??... if not.. why not..??
                  .

                  *******************************************
                  The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

                  “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

                  Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

                  My Blue Stuff:
                  Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
                  Dynasty 200DX
                  Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
                  Millermatic 200

                  TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    It balls up so fast I don't bother, I like it when its nice and round with a colour tint, thats when I find it welding the best. I will sometimes pick up a sharp one and use it and it works fine, but eventually develops a ball on the tip, never been a problem so I just keep it that way.

                    I also find the most recommendations are to keep it balled, Never really noticed a major difference in performance as you would when welding stainless for example, a balled tip in stainless is horrible. for aluminum, balled works, sharp works, straight out of the pack with a flat end works. But if you try to sharpen a balled electrode it can split, especially if its been through 140 + amps for a while, most likely just splits or breaks so I just go the safe route and leave it balled.
                    if there's a welder, there's a way

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Olivero View Post
                      It balls up so fast I don't bother, I like it when its nice and round with a colour tint, thats when I find it welding the best. I will sometimes pick up a sharp one and use it and it works fine, but eventually develops a ball on the tip, never been a problem so I just keep it that way.

                      I also find the most recommendations are to keep it balled, Never really noticed a major difference in performance as you would when welding stainless for example, a balled tip in stainless is horrible. for aluminum, balled works, sharp works, straight out of the pack with a flat end works. But if you try to sharpen a balled electrode it can split, especially if its been through 140 + amps for a while, most likely just splits or breaks so I just go the safe route and leave it balled.
                      I like mine taper ground with the tip lightly blunted.... it works very well for 2% Lanth on a Dynasty advanced inverter..

                      what type of machine are you running..??
                      Last edited by H80N; 04-25-2016, 10:10 PM.
                      .

                      *******************************************
                      The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

                      “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

                      Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

                      My Blue Stuff:
                      Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
                      Dynasty 200DX
                      Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
                      Millermatic 200

                      TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I run the Dynasty 200 DX.

                        I guess its just a preference thing.
                        if there's a welder, there's a way

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                        • #13
                          Have you ran any 2% lanthanated to compare? I've never ran the E3, so I'm ignorant on how it runs.

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