Millermatic 211 Auto-Set wont feed wire

[IndianaEngineer]

Verify input power at 230Vac, also the light is on because you turned the power off then put the jumper in. really pointless.

Ok cruizer
This is a little strange. Let me say that this is a 120V system. So I had the side panel cover already off. So I just measured right at the power switch. At first I didnt measure any power. But then I checked again and made sure I was getting the blade of the terminal. Well I only measured 61volts. Hmmm..... So I measure the hanging cord plug(that I made and have hanging from the ceiling) that the welder is plugged into and I measured 120v Ok well that narrows it down some. So I measured continuity from the made side of welder plug end and I did not show continuity back to the primary side of the switch on one side. This cord has a screw on adapter plug. So I unscrewed the adapter plug end from the main cord. It has 4 configured blades that plug into the plug end. Would you know I measured continuity from the female corded side that runs into the welder to the primary side of the power switch. I showed continuity all the way down all 3 wires the 2 power and the ground checked good. I then checked the adapter end plug from all 3 of the power prongs to the back of the male end on this adapter plug that plugs into the cord and I showed continuity on all 3 connections. That was strange. But when I plug the adapter into the cord I dont get continuity on the neutral wire side. So I actually thought that the male blades on the adapter were just not hitting the sides of the holes and making a good connection. So I proceeded to use a vice and smashed the blade down just a little bit. I had to press really hard to get them back together. But still no 120v and still no continuity on the neutral side. very strange. I spent about 15 minutes on it but will get back to it here soon. But I think if its going to take much more of my time I might just cut the adapter plug end off and put my own permanent plug on! Thanks for the feedback

[Miller Kevin]

If you turn it to Autoset does the blue light come on?

Kevin

[cruizer]

Verify input power at 230Vac, also the light is on because you turned the power off then put the jumper in. really pointless.

[IndianaEngineer]

What is the serial# of the 211,,,, you said that you've had it for a while, 2 hrs or not, if that gun has ever been yanked or twisted in the wrong way, it may be your culprit. Never the less, test the thing,then report back.

cruizer
I did not find any continuity between the core or shield of the conduit and the wiring. I did jumper the pins 1 and 2 out with wire and interesting that the temp light came on? I was going to go back and try this again. Because that does not make any sense because when I pull the trigger that is like shorting the pin 1 and 2 together but when I pull the trigger the temp light never comes on. But nonetheless The wire still did not feed when shorted together.

[IndianaEngineer]

Can you hear the gas solenoid when you pull the trigger? Check an make sure the spool gun switch didn't get bumped.

labmaster02
Actually I do not hear the gas solenoid doing anything. And I do not see the gas gauge jump when turned on or when pulling the trigger. And I have not adjuisted the valves on the gas. And I have welded with this unit before. So it does appear that the gas is not coming on for some reason. But would this cause it not to feed the wire?

[cruizer]

What is the serial# of the 211,,,, you said that you've had it for a while, 2 hrs or not, if that gun has ever been yanked or twisted in the wrong way, it may be your culprit. Never the less, test the thing,then report back.

[labmaster02]

Can you hear the gas solenoid when you pull the trigger? Check an make sure the spool gun switch didn't get bumped.

[IndianaEngineer]

The copper current carrying conduit which is inside the torch sheathing. The trigger wires also run in that conduit. Ya break the insulation on the trigger wires, and short to the conduit. the trigger will test fine, but the drive nor anything else will work. That why its always good as a tech to isolate the problem, and its the first thing we look at.

cruiz
Ahhh ok I see what your saying. Yes that is a possibility although this unit has barely 2 hours of usage since new. That's why I wasn't considering a "wear" aspect of the unit. But I guess it would be a good idea to check anyway. Will get back with the answer tomorrow. Thanks!

PS by the way is it possible to get a schematic for the board itself?

[cruizer]

The copper current carrying conduit which is inside the torch sheathing. The trigger wires also run in that conduit. Ya break the insulation on the trigger wires, and short to the conduit. the trigger will test fine, but the drive nor anything else will work. That why its always good as a tech to isolate the problem, and its the first thing we look at.

[IndianaEngineer]

You said you checked the trigger for continuity, did you check the trigger wires to the center conduit (Brass end)

Verify if its the machine or the gun by jumpering pins 1,2 on the machine with a piece of mig wire.

cruizer
thanks much for the reply. Well I can jumper out the plug and whole gun but with the continuity check I did I would think that the gun would not be the problem. Do you know if this is a "dry contact" going back to the board? Or is there voltage going through the wiring? Also I am not sure what you mean check the trigger wires to the "center conduit"? I showed the trigger switch is working properly...... Opening and closing every time......

[cruizer]

You said you checked the trigger for continuity, did you check the trigger wires to the center conduit (Brass end)

Verify if its the machine or the gun by jumpering pins 1,2 on the machine with a piece of mig wire.

[IndianaEngineer]

All
Hopefully someone can help me here. I have a Millermatic 211 AutoSet. I have used this several times since new but I dont weld alot. The other day I got the welder out for a job and the fan started right up but would not feed wire. I had twisted the connector earlier thinking it might be a bad connection. That did not help. While troubleshooting the problem I found that I had twisted the wire out of the pin in the connector. I did fix that problem. While I had everything apart I checked the connection to the plug. (pins were supposed to be in Pin #1 and #2)I showed continuity to the male side of the plug. So I plugged it back in and tried everything again. Still the fan would come on but would not feed wire. So I took the side panel off and unplugged the unit and I checked continuity to the plug going to the board inside the welder. I showed the switch was opening and closing properly when I would squeeze the trigger. so I thought this was fine. I then checked the Thermostat TP1 to see if it was open. It was closed so that seemed good. Can anyone clue me in what else I may be missing? What about gas pressure or settings? Is there any fuses to check? Fan sensor? Is the drive motor DC brush? Could be the brushes? Etc. etc... any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!