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2000 bobcat 225nt help

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  • #16
    Originally posted by nfinch86 View Post

    What do you mean " Snapped the Dial in place ?

    Norm
    Your polarity and coarse adjustment dials. Measure at your studs because it could be in your stinger or ground clamp or your leads. .

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    • #17
      OK, I see what you are saying.
      He's saying Zero, at the stinger & work clamp.

      Norm
      www.normsmobilewelding.blogspot.com

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      • #18
        So take the reading from the posts.
        www.normsmobilewelding.blogspot.com

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        • #19
          Originally posted by nfinch86 View Post
          So take the reading from the posts.
          Or futher back if you have too. I would keep going until I couldn't go back anymore before I took it in to a tech and have him tell me it has a bad connection.

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          • #20
            I think it may be time to take it in let them look at it thank you all for the help

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            • #21
              its a tough one, so rotor and excitation is good, power coils are good, not sure about the weld or stabilizer. lets try a Weld in CV. wont stick weld well, but it'll tell me if the weld coil is ok.

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              • #22
                Ok with the welder set to cv it will weld

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                • #23
                  So that leads to a failed selector switch or stabilizer....Generator is ok,

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                  • #24
                    Cruiser can the selector switch be removed and cleaned then ohmed to see if it is good?
                    Last edited by benelli7979; 03-31-2016, 11:57 PM.

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                    • #25
                      kinda pointless, we are talking about the cv/cc switch, just see if the tabs are touching. More concerned with the weld stabilizer, will want to ohm out that coil.

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                      • #26
                        Ok it's been awhile but finally had time to take the welder into a repair center. They said reactor, polarity switch, selector switch and rheostat are all bad. 1500 bucks to fix.😢 I told them to button it up and I would come get it. Any help with cheaper parts that I can replace myself?

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                        • #27
                          So basically they are saying everything on the weld side of the machine? Honestly I think I would go with cruiser's next step myself and try to work thru this with the ppl here as they are very knowledgeable and very helpful. At the very least call Miller and talk to tech support and see what they would think about all the components going bad at once not saying that the repair shop would be misleading you but a second opion is always a good idea.

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                          • #28
                            Cruizer would know best but that sounds really off the wall to me-big list of parts. There's more troubleshooting to do. Put the polarity switch in either CV position and measure resistance between wires 80&81. You should be able to find them either at the reactor/stabilizer, or at the polarity switch. If they read open (generally OL on a DMM), the reactor/stabilizer is dead or has a bad wiring connection to it. There could be multiple problems as the repair guys said, but doesn't seem likely unless something really out of the ordinary happened to this welder.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by benelli7979 View Post
                              Ok it's been awhile but finally had time to take the welder into a repair center. They said reactor, polarity switch, selector switch and rheostat are all bad. 1500 bucks to fix.😢 I told them to button it up and I would come get it. Any help with cheaper parts that I can replace myself?
                              I'm going to have to say your repair center tech is a poke-n-hope parts changer and doesn't have a clue what's wrong with the machine. If the rheostat were bad you wouldn't have any auxiliary AC power. Could be as simple as dirty contacts in the polarity and/or selector switch. Have seen it before as well as just a bad/loose connection.

                              The knife style terminal on weld stator output lead #72 and reactor AC-Z input lead has been known to go open resulting in no weld output in CC but ok in CV.
                              Last edited by duaneb55; 10-11-2016, 10:17 PM.
                              MM200 w/spot controller and Spoolmatic 1
                              Syncrowave 180 SD
                              Bobcat 225G Plus LPG/NG w/14-pin*
                              *Homemade Suitcase Wire Feeder
                              *HF-251D-1
                              *WC-1S & Spoolmatic 1
                              PakMaster 100XL
                              Marquette "Star Jet" 21-110
                              http://www.millerwelds.com/images/sm...rolleyes.png?2

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                              • #30
                                As soon as I get it home I will check more into and post back. Thank you all very much !

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