Trailblazer 275 broken volt amp control

[Frostyman]

Hi all,
I have had the unfortunate pleasure of snapping off (by accident) and the amperagevoltage control knob on the front panel of my trailblazer. I cannot imagine that I am the first person to do this, yet I have not found any discussions that start to cover this.

Here is the long/short and not/so-simple:
The knob in question is attached to a potentiometer, that is part of the PC board the controls all weld function for this machine. Yes, the board that's a $600 part. My board is just fine, less the broken off potentiometer stem that the actual controll knob mounts to. In fact I think the board I have is a newer series than the part list defined as "PC2" as my machine is a rebuild. I could be wrong here but I have what appears to be a #240606 board (assembly?)
Whatever. I have a couple paths I could take:
1. Bite it, and just buy a whole new PC board. 😬$$$
2. Replace the potentiometer with either exact fit, or close-enough. 🤓 $
3. Give-up on the knob control altogether and spend the $$$ on a wireless RC.

What would you do?

Anyone got a blown board I could buy?

[cruizer]

I could never find that pot, it's just a 1 k, 1 watt. However if you remove it. Not that difficult to stick a 1k, 2 watt on the board with a bitt of silicone to hold it into position, and solder it in.

[Frostyman]

I am in favor of cheap fixes, but I really hope they're lasting, and non-detrimental ones.

So to you Miller technical folks:
Who thought it would be a good idea to have a direct mechanical interface between this knob and the actual PC board? These machines are "tough" right?
Knuckleheads like me will probably have some assistant who throw stuff in the truck without the degree of care that should be required, and the machine eventually will have snapped off knobs.

Here's my plug for a design modification:
(Pun intended)
Mount control knobs off of the main panel as they are, float the PC board in a resin sealed protective housing inside the welder away from the back of the control panel (not gift-wrapped in a mylar sheet), and connect the two with modular connector wire leads.

Remember, good design considers the people who use and repair these machines, as well as those who have to shell out the cash to cover that.

[cruizer]

Easier and much cheaper for production to make them this way. not about to change as few break them. Those that do, I simply advise to r/r the busted potentiometer to a regular one..

[Frostyman]

Well I tried the aftermarket thing : NOPE!
It was going to work other than having zero weather/moisture protection. In a fine control pot like that, probably not a great way to hold your amperage where you want it.

So I solved the problem by ordering the minimum quantity of potentiometes with the correct specifications. Although this is overkill, I am now the guy you want to contact if you need to get a hold of that 10K pot.

I will assume, as per the terms of use of this forum, that it would be improper for me to post a listing to sell these off.
Anyhow, I guess I will have will have to create a link.

Meanwhile, I will install..... and let's see how it goes.