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dialarc hf has no dc output.

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  • #16
    If you know how to do it safely you can trace it hot with a volt meter. The voltage will disappear right after the problem. Or you can measure across each component and there should not be significant voltage showing except connected in reverse across diodes. Volt meters measure "voltage drop" not really voltage so if you measure the input to the output of a switch for example it should not show voltage even though the switch and power are on. I am speaking about the same lead in and out not across 2 poles. If you use good clip on leads you can connect them with the power OFF briefly turn it on & take your reading and turn the power OFF again before you touch anything to move your test points. Remember you must respect polarity in DC circuits. Watch out for capacitors. You need to discharge them after each power on as they can stay charged and burn your meter out and/or give you a nasty shock which usually causes you to yank your hand or head back and smash it into something else ripping it open and breaking something. Be careful, be safe and good luck.---Meltedmetal

    P.S. ONE LAST WARNING: THERE IS EASILY ENOUGH CURRENT THERE TO KILL YOU MANY TIMES OVER PROCEED WITH THE UTMOST CAUTION.
    ---Meltedmetal

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Hoss View Post
      my old dialarc hf has no dc output in straight or reverse polarity. ac and hf works. any ideas on what to look for and how to fix and is it going to expensive?
      Is it possible that you are actulaly getting voltage out but not getting DC TIG arc start..??

      Have you tried Stick welding in DC mode..??

      Or leaving the Contactor Control Switch in the STANDARD position instead of REMOTE and measure voltage out between the terminals with a meter (should see an open circuit voltage guessing around 60vdc)
      Last edited by H80N; 11-01-2015, 10:13 AM.
      .

      *******************************************
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      • #18
        If you attempt the test procedure I outlined above turn off the HF as in check in stick mode or you will likely toast your meter.---Meltedmetal
        ---Meltedmetal

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Meltedmetal View Post
          If you attempt the test procedure I outlined above turn off the HF as in check in stick mode or you will likely toast your meter.---Meltedmetal
          Good point..
          .

          *******************************************
          The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

          “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

          Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

          My Blue Stuff:
          Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
          Dynasty 200DX
          Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
          Millermatic 200

          TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

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          • #20
            The hf is not turned on. I tried stick in straight and reverse, nothing. Ac works in stick and tig with or without hf. I traced circuits as best I could with a continuity tester an could find nothing amiss.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Hoss View Post
              The hf is not turned on. I tried stick in straight and reverse, nothing. Ac works in stick and tig with or without hf. I traced circuits as best I could with a continuity tester an could find nothing amiss.
              To me... it sounds more and more like a selector switch problem.....

              or a disconnect between the transformer+magamp and the rectifier assembly

              Do you have AC going into the Diode bridge..??

              or voltage coming out at point #24 or at point #29 on either side of inductor "Z" ?

              See the schematic , Figure 7-1on page 12

              https://www.millerwelds.com/files/ow...s/O315_MIL.pdf

              (you may nead to blow it up to read it)
              Last edited by H80N; 11-01-2015, 04:33 PM.
              .

              *******************************************
              The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

              “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

              Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

              My Blue Stuff:
              Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
              Dynasty 200DX
              Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
              Millermatic 200

              TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

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              • #22
                9 times out of 10, it's a winding failure at the stabilizer

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by cruizer View Post
                  9 times out of 10, it's a winding failure at the stabilizer
                  That would make sense........... (stabilizer # 027 218) ??

                  you are talking about the Inductor "Z" ... Right..??
                  Last edited by H80N; 11-01-2015, 06:37 PM.
                  .

                  *******************************************
                  The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

                  “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

                  Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

                  My Blue Stuff:
                  Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
                  Dynasty 200DX
                  Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
                  Millermatic 200

                  TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

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                  • #24
                    I don't know for sure what I am looking at. I can see it on the diagram but not on the machine. Sorry. thanks anyway for all the help. The guy I got it from is out of town for a few days so I will talk to him about a refund when he returns.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Hoss View Post
                      I don't know for sure what I am looking at. I can see it on the diagram but not on the machine. Sorry. thanks anyway for all the help. The guy I got it from is out of town for a few days so I will talk to him about a refund when he returns.
                      If you are still game...

                      you could take some pics of the inside of the machine, post them and one of us could circle it...
                      .

                      *******************************************
                      The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

                      “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

                      Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

                      My Blue Stuff:
                      Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
                      Dynasty 200DX
                      Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
                      Millermatic 200

                      TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

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                      • #26
                        I'll see what I can do.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by Hoss View Post
                          I'll see what I can do.
                          it will look a lot like this.. The top one "A" Inductor, iron core

                          There will be 3 similar items inside the box... the Transformer, Magnetic Amplifier, and the Stabilizer/Inductor
                          the Inductor is likely the smallest of the 3



                          Last edited by H80N; 11-01-2015, 08:02 PM.
                          .

                          *******************************************
                          The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

                          “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

                          Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

                          My Blue Stuff:
                          Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
                          Dynasty 200DX
                          Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
                          Millermatic 200

                          TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

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                          • #28
                            See Item #19 on page 1 of the parts listing...Figure A MAIN ASSEMBLY

                            Page # 24 of the PDF

                            https://www.millerwelds.com/files/ow...s/O315_MIL.pdf

                            .

                            *******************************************
                            The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

                            “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

                            Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

                            My Blue Stuff:
                            Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
                            Dynasty 200DX
                            Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
                            Millermatic 200

                            TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              I see it. it is difficult to get to. I guess that I am supposed to measure the voltage at each end,yes? Do I measure from each end to ground or somewhere else? I know that I should know this but I want to be sure to do it right. How many volts should I be seeing? will it be ac or dc? If the winding is shorted shouldn't it show with an ohm meter or does it have to be live to check? If I have voltage at each end then what should I check next? I know its alot of dumb questions but I have not done this kind of stuff in a lot of years

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                              • #30
                                For continuity power off- I don't know what ohms it should be but it should not be open which looks like "open" would match your symptom. It should not be shorted to the frame which I doubt as I think you would have some fireworks.

                                Voltage test, power on, HF off, set on DC, : I would expect to see close to max. ocv that looks like 76vdc between stabilizer input & and the electrode lead. You should see the same at the stabilizer output but if you don't the circuit is open between the 2. If you do have voltage at the out put continue downstream until it disappears.
                                ---Meltedmetal

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