Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Smoking Syncrowave 180!!

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • ASKANDY
    replied
    There is a high watt resistor in the machine called a burden resistor. It keeps the SCRs loaded so they stay on while the machine is in an open circuit mode. If there was no load at all on the scr bank, it would turn off right after being gated on. This would cause a choppy output with no load applied to the machine. With the burden resistor on the circuit to keep the SCRs on, the open circuit voltage is steady. The varnish or coating of the resistor is what you saw. This is common in the stick mode cause you are at open circuit voltage whenever youare not welding. The resistor doesn't work much at all in the tig mode cause you are using the contactor to turn off the output when not welding.

    Nothing to worry about.

    Hope this helps

    Andy

    Leave a comment:


  • Too_Many_Tools
    replied
    Originally posted by Mike W
    It is possible the resistor got a protective varnish type coating on it that just burned off. A resistor that size will get hot.

    That is what I thought also but according to his earlier description this was not the first time he had used the welder.

    I would also note that a resistor designed properly into a circuit should not get hot enough to smoke unless it is a power resistor meant to.

    My thoughts is a good dealer would want to take a look at the welder to be proactive in catching any problems before they cause downtime for the user. We pay money for a warranty and the buyer has a right to service even if the welder "works" but suspects a serious problem is developing. Seeing the "magic smoke" escape from your new welder is one in my book.

    TMT

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike W
    replied
    It is possible the resistor got a protective varnish type coating on it that just burned off. A resistor that size will get hot.

    Leave a comment:


  • richie
    replied
    Its good to here that everything is alright with your syncrowave180sd.

    Leave a comment:


  • Purgemonkey
    replied
    Hello TMT,

    No more smoke so far.

    Without it smoking or malfunctioning, the dealer says that he can't fix what isn't broken.

    They're decent people, the guy I talked to didn't tell me not to bring it in.
    He more or less said that run it and see what happens. If it starts to smoke again, by all means bring it in.

    No sign of trouble yet.

    I'm building S.S. running gear this week. Maybe I'll post pics of it when its done.

    Leave a comment:


  • Too_Many_Tools
    replied
    Originally posted by Purgemonkey
    I powered up my brand new machine and after sitting idle for about 3 minutes I could see a light cloud of smoke rising from the back. Everything looks normal except for the smoke. Suggestions??
    Hi,

    Does the resistor still smoke?

    If so, you have a problem since resistors aren't supposed to smoke.

    Even if the smoke was dust on the resistor burning, a resistor is not supposed to get that hot.

    And with your dealer telling you not to worry, well he would rather you not bring the welder in for warranty work. Reimbursement for warranty work is not the greatest.

    If that was my welder, it would be taking a trip to the dealer before the warranty expired.

    Good luck with your welder,

    TMT

    Leave a comment:


  • jisco
    replied
    Tied together

    If your earthground is installed right it more or less acts as a backup because
    your neutral and earthground should be tied together in the grounding grid.
    This is not a guarantee but I have seen people's triplex service line feeding the house lose the neutral because of a tree limb or break due to stress between the pole and the house and not lose any appliances because the earth ground stabilized the load that the neutral normally does.
    The neutral in a house carries the amperage of whatever is on that circuit.
    The earthground can also take a lightening strike to ground like a lightening rod.
    Like I said, it's not a guarantee but you stand a better chance of limiting damage to your circuits if you have an earthground.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sberry
    replied
    Just out of curiosity how would a earth ground save appliances in the event of an open neutral?

    Leave a comment:


  • jisco
    replied
    Hey

    Maybe I can help explain the grounding. I am retired from the local power company and I've hooked up electric service to 100s of homes and businesses.
    In your average 230 V service, the ground bar is used to stabilize the electrical load, and the wires going to it are called your neutral (usually bare wires.
    You should still drive a copperclad ground rod and attach #6 copper wire from it to your ground/neutral lugs in your electric panel or meterbase for safety.
    If for some reason you should lose your neutral out on the line, the earthground in a lot of cases will save your TV and appliances.
    I hope I made my thoughts understandable. Not too good explaining what I'm thinking.
    I hope this helps though,

    Jisco
    S.E. Ohio

    Leave a comment:


  • Purgemonkey
    replied
    I understand what you're saying.

    I spoke to the electrician at my workplace. He says the outlet should be OK the way it is.

    As far as the HF ground is concerned, I wan't to be safe vs. sorry. I do have some halfway decent electronic stuff to consider, like this computer.

    Either way I'm having the whole setup checked over before I get any projects started.

    I wouldn't want to start a new thread titled... "Smoking HP Pavilion!!"

    Leave a comment:


  • Sberry
    replied
    There are a few things to pay attn to about grounding for hi freq, first, I wouldnt bother unless there were problems. Remember, this is not a substitute for equipment ground and by nature the equipment ground will take care of it on its own. Some of the issues would be more important with several people in an area working 8 hrs a day or for interference with electronics equipment.

    Leave a comment:


  • Purgemonkey
    replied
    Hey guys, just wanted to let you know that I talked to the dealer today.
    Turned out to be no big deal. He said the thing's still under warranty so run it.

    So I ran it for about an hour and burned a whole bunch of 1/8" 7018 rod at anywhere from 65 to 140 amps DC and AC, per his advice.

    No more smoking, just nice looking stick welds on 3/4" plate.

    I'll be picking up some argon and putting in grounding for the HF this weekend.

    Thanks to all for reading my posts, and all the advice.

    Leave a comment:


  • Purgemonkey
    replied
    You're right, it says 230v model right on the cover of the manual and the front label of the unit.

    I'll be talking to the dealer or someone at Miller just to be sure I actually need to take it back.(long ride)

    Leave a comment:


  • Sberry
    replied
    As far as I know there are no jumpers in the 180, could be wrong though so dont bet the bank until you look at the manual.

    Leave a comment:


  • Purgemonkey
    replied
    Nope, they close at 4:30. I'll get it in to them sometime this week.

    I'll let you know how it all turns out.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X