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Yeah another "Which Tig Machine" question...

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    fun4now
    Senior Member

  • fun4now
    replied
    1/2" at 170 amp's

    i would have to wonder how much penatration you are getting in the 1/2" plate.
    the 250amp for 1/2" is for single pass full pen. it can no dought be doon with less it is also the roule for 1/2" on 1/2" if you are welding 1/8" to 1/2" you would no dought be a bit hot with 250 amp's.

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  • OldSparks
    Senior Member

  • OldSparks
    replied
    I'll add a little confusion. I do a lot of steel tube butt joints and I can't even remember having to do a serious fillet. I was surprised to see the amperage you guys are talking about for 1/4" plate. I just went out and threw a few pieces together. The verticle pieces are 3/8" thick being welded to !/2" plate on the bottom. I ground a 1/8" chamfer on the 3/8" piece. The first picture shows the tack-up, the second is a three pass joint and the third is a single pass joint. All welds were at 170 amps. I really couldn't justify using any more heat and would feel more comfortable with less.. Do people really weld 1/4" steel at 250 amps?
    As for your machine selection, I recently spent some time on a 'CST 250' dc machine, valve on torch, no foot pedal. Bare bones but a real dandy stick/tig machine.
    Attached Files

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  • burninbriar
    Senior Member

  • burninbriar
    replied
    Originally posted by fun4now
    get a Harbor Freight speicial and you will stink at TIG

    go for the dyn.200DX and you will not regret it.
    Good point.Just to clear the air,the Harbor Freight was ment as a joke.

    Leave a comment:

  • fun4now
    Senior Member

  • fun4now
    replied
    dynasty 200 DX

    i have never hear any one that was unhappy with the dyn.200 DX

    Leave a comment:

  • fun4now
    Senior Member

  • fun4now
    replied
    Harbor Freight speicial

    get a Harbor Freight speicial and you will stink at TIG

    go for the dyn.200DX and you will not regret it.

    Leave a comment:

  • burninbriar
    Senior Member

  • burninbriar
    replied
    Another option would be a Harbor Freight speicial.That way if it turns out that you stink at tig welding you can blame it on the machine.

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  • burninbriar
    Senior Member

  • burninbriar
    replied
    My brother always would say "think to long,you'll be wrong".

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  • Blown S-10
    Senior Member

  • Blown S-10
    replied
    Originally posted by dhdh71
    One thing I do realize is that 95% of my welding I do is typically 1/8", and as pjseaman was talking about, my 1/4" work is small pieces like brackets etc.


    Hey, Blown S-10, I am on the S10 Forum quite a bit, usually in the bag section or body-dropped section. Its a great forum.
    ok then. i'm SURE you would be HAPPY with a dynasty 200dx. don't think about it forever, like i did. just order the thing, really.

    cool man. i bet those guys are freakin over your setup

    Leave a comment:

  • dhdh71
    Junior Member

  • dhdh71
    replied
    Thanks for all the nice comments and advice guys. I definitely have some thinking to do about this. Although I have some money from a boat I just sold to fund my tig welder, its nowhere near the amount it would take to get a syncro 250 or dynasty 300. I was honestly pushing it to get a dynasty 200 budget wise,though I could make it happen. I definitely realize the importance of not underbuying a tool. One thing I do realize is that 95% of my welding I do is typically 1/8", and as pjseaman was talking about, my 1/4" work is small pieces like brackets etc. If I can't afford a big dog I may end up with a dynasty 200dx to get into the tig world. If I have something heavier then it is capable of I always have my faithful MM210. I am very pleased with the appearance of the mig welds I can make, they just aren't anything like a great tig weld . If I do go the Dynasty 200 route I think it is something I can always have use for, even if I hit the lottery and can truly afford a big tig unit in the future. It would be way better then no tig at all.
    Hey, Blown S-10, I am on the S10 Forum quite a bit, usually in the bag section or body-dropped section. Its a great forum.

    Again I do appreciate all the great advice, I gotta give this some thought.

    Leave a comment:

  • Blown S-10
    Senior Member

  • Blown S-10
    replied
    great pics/projects man . i would say the minimun would be either the syncro 250dx, or dynasty 300 dx, water cooled. the dynasty 200dx is nice. but you have some money, don't cheap out on yourself, more power man . i KNOW, it seems like a big investment, and it is. but once you start realizing the benefits these machines would give you, well, your work would move up to a new level.
    you don't think you will do any/much aluminum, lol, yeah right.

    once you have the machine, and realize its/your potential. the cost of the machine WILL be forgoten. to the point of " how did i ever do without it"


    i'm a moderator here. Jess. www.s10forum.com/forum/
    mostly in the supercharger room.

    Leave a comment:

  • fun4now
    Senior Member

  • fun4now
    replied
    sweet billds

    my vote goes to the 39 dodge you can send it right over when you finish with it ok LOL
    actualy i have a 52 GMC i am hopeing to do the same thing to some day

    oh ya go for the dynasty even if you think you will never do aluminum cuz it will only take 1 or 2 lil jobs you had to send out and you will be wishing you had AC on youre TIG.

    Leave a comment:

  • Paul Seaman
    Senior Member

  • Paul Seaman
    replied
    dhdh71: very cool build projects and your attention to detail is evident in the process. I believe with proper technique and practice a mig weld can be a pretty weld. Tig welds are flatter but the reinforcement is added strength as long as it isn't crazy. When I weld tubing I burn in on the sides and quick accross the center and it helps with flattenting the bead profile, also using c25 gas reduces spatter {less clean up post weld}. I am not against tig chassis building but until november all I had was mig so I ran what I had.

    If 1/4" is going to be the machines regular diet then none of the machines listed are going to be quite enough as they are all in the 185-200 amp range.
    If however you just plan to do a few motor plates along with miles of tubing then the machines listed will be finely suited. I own a dynasty and have used the syncros and the older shopmasters which weld great but they are expensive on power consumption. I believe if you only ever plan to weld steel the maxstar 200 will perform well. But if there is even a glimmer of a possibility aluminum is in your future go for the dynasty its advanced wave form shaping will allow you to change the bead profile at will. The advanced wavefrom ability isn't just an aluminum benefit it will allow you to get a finer {narrower} arc cone and weld inside corners without walking the bead up real high on the sides.

    Good luck with the choice, keep us up on the progress of your projsects no matter which machine you buy.

    Leave a comment:

  • burninbriar
    Senior Member

  • burninbriar
    replied
    Nice shop,I wish I had that much room.The 39 dodge looks like a fun project I would enjoy.I'd like to see it when its done.

    Leave a comment:

  • dhdh71
    Junior Member

  • dhdh71
    replied
    I think you make many very valid points about the 210 being the best tool for this type of fabrication. I get great looking and strong welds out of it, and it is fast to use. My problem is that I am a perfectionist. As nice as the mig welds look though, they honestly don't compare imo to a tig weld in terms of bead profile, and a leave it alone don't grind it cuz it looks great tig weld does9even in steel). Though I realize the tig is nowhere near the speed of mig to complete, I'm not looking to create the fastest weld, just the nicest(and strongest!) weld I can create. All of my car fabrication projects are not weld it to get it done fast type, but ones that I am spending great amounts of time to make as perfect as I am capable. With this im mind is tig still a waste of time for steel use? Not that I believe my cars are the best out there by any means, but here are a couple of my current one I am proud of, though they are COMPLETELY diiferent types of projects(I like many styles )
    The first pics are a 98 S10 with a mandrel bent frame I designed and built with a custom ifs and rx7 turbo irs. It is airbagged with 20" rims, and when the bags are fully deflates it lays the rock panels flat on the ground. It will not be a driver though.
    Then from the opposite side of the spectrum is a fenderless 39 dodge truck that I am building as a fun driver. It has a simple traditional hot rod look, with a frame I built from 2x3 box. it is z'ed 3" up front, with a 12" rear kick-up. It has 394 olds power, and will be chopped and channeled, painted satin dark blue with red steelies/suspension/motor for a traditional feel. And I am building a shortened bed as well.
    Sorry for the off topic, just wanted to give a better feel for what I am building, And thanks again for the help everybody!
    Attached Files

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  • CaptNemo
    Junior Member

  • CaptNemo
    replied
    I hate to be the fly in the ointment, but if you're only doing mild steel, a Tig is a waste of money and shop space. The MM210 is the proper tool for the job.

    That being said, a Tig opens up the ability to weld aluminum, stainless and 4130 materials. Once you start welding aluminum you almost don't want to go back to steel. I have a Synchrowave 250 and it get four times the useage of the Mig in the shop. But I do a fair amount of aluminum and lately, a lot of 4130. The new race car has a 4130 cage and chassis in it and I've been doing a fair amount of work to it.

    Leave a comment:

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