Yeah another "Which Tig Machine" question...

[dhdh71]

Hello all. Well I've been getting great use out of my MM210, I LOVE the unit, it works great. Now to my current question. I used the "search" function and learned a ton, but still needed some recommendations for my application. I am a car builder(hot rods, etc) that does a little bit of everything from chassis fabrication right down the list of car building addicts. I am a proficient migger, but now REALLY want to get into tigging.
Of the type of fabrication I do, and have done, it has always been steel only, and I honestly have never had a need to weld aluminum for any reason. If my choice of a tig unit has AC and aluminum capability, great, as a bonus, but honestly not required.

My Miller mig has been superb, I would not hesitate to buy blue. My Maximum needs are typically box tubing in chassis building(2x4 or 2x3 box, .120 wall usually) up to a maximum of 1/4" wall thickness plate/box tubing or angle. On the small end I would also love to use the tig for sheetmetal use as well. Portability for the tig machine is not a requirement at all, as all of my welding has always been in my shop only. I have 220 power available. I have been looking at the following machines- Syncro 180, Maxstar 200DX, TA 185(yeah its not blue), and the Dynasty 200DX.

I never want to underbuy a machine, but my budget is not unlimited either. With steel up to 1/4" being my max need for tig, what would you recommend? Some questions I have are:

*On steel will an Inverter based tig have better weld characteristics than a transformer machine, and for my needs is it worth the extra $"?

*How much power will be required in machine selection to properly tig up to 1/4"/are these machines capable for my needs?

*Is the only difference between the Maxstar and Dynasty the lack of AC on the Maxstar? On Steel(and DC use) is their quality of peformance the same?

*Would a Maxstar or Dynasty be a better machine than the Syncro 180 for my needs*


I am sorry for the LONG post. If you all have any advice for my I would greatly appreciate!! Thanks alot Dan

[Blown S-10]

syncro 250 dx gets my vote

[92 mustang]

I second the syncrowave 250. I have a syncrowave 180 and I wish I would have bought a bigger machine.

[dhdh71]

Yeah it always seems I'm $1000-$1500 away from what I need. As I said, I have and love my MM210, would the Syncro 180 to the 250 be like comparing my 210 mig to a 175? Aside from more output what is the advantage of the 250? Thanks for your input guys

[fun4now]

the syncro 250DX has built in pulser.

word on the grape vine is the syncro 180 will soon have it also but i still vote syn.250 DX for youre use. about the same $ as a dyn.200DX but lots more top end.

[Paul Seaman]

I have the D200DX and it gets my vote on all fronts, it is more expensive but it uses less juice from the wall and allows more shaping of the arc and weld bead contour. At the PRI show I saw ANDY put a bead on the corner of a piece of 16ga or 18ga aluminum, not on the edge but on the corner. That kind of control can NOT be gotten with a traditional transformer machine. I haven't even tapped the possibilities of the D200DX and I love it!

Peace,

[burninbriar]

You mentioned that you want to tig 1/4" steel.Going by the 1 amp per .001" metal thickness you will need a 250 amp machine.I have the syncrowave 250 and love it.But then again its all I have ever used so I cant compair it to any thing.

[dhdh71]

You mentioned that you want to tig 1/4" steel.Going by the 1 amp per .001" metal thickness you will need a 250 amp machine.I have the syncrowave 250 and love it.But then again its all I have ever used so I cant compair it to any thing.

wow I didn't realize it would require a 250amp unit to tig weld 1/4" steel. Here I thought a Dynasty 200DX would have been adequate. So I guess to biggest steel a Dynasty 200DX(or any 200 amp tig) is capable of is roughly 3/16 then?

[burninbriar]

I am learning tig myself so dont put to much faith in what I say.The 1 amp per .001 rule I beleive is for single pass.I have not yet tryed multiple pass work yet but that rule has worked religously on every thing I've done so far.I've been welding .030-1/8" and have been haveing a blast.

[dhdh71]

I am learning tig myself so dont put to much faith in what I say.The 1 amp per .001 rule I beleive is for single pass.I have not yet tryed multiple pass work yet but that rule has worked religously on every thing I've done so far.I've been welding .030-1/8" and have been haveing a blast.

Oh believe me your tig experience is WAY above mine.........zero! I appreciate input from all. Hopefully I can soon be tigging and having as much fun as you are!

[fun4now]

the dynasty realy shines on aluminum but you dont have any call for aluminum so unless available power is an ishue i dont think you need the dynasty. the .001 rule is a good starting point. the dynasty can exceed it a bit due to arc controle but 1/4" to 1/4" is about it's limit and thats pushing.(so the experts say)

[redmist]

So - would you weld all your chassis and other steel stuff with the Tig instead of the Mig now ? If that is the plan - the Tig work would look better but wouldn't it be very slow ? What type of torch and trigger / control would be best ?
I am in the same boat, and would like to buy a new machine but there is so much to consider ?

[CaptNemo]

I hate to be the fly in the ointment, but if you're only doing mild steel, a Tig is a waste of money and shop space. The MM210 is the proper tool for the job.

That being said, a Tig opens up the ability to weld aluminum, stainless and 4130 materials. Once you start welding aluminum you almost don't want to go back to steel. I have a Synchrowave 250 and it get four times the useage of the Mig in the shop. But I do a fair amount of aluminum and lately, a lot of 4130. The new race car has a 4130 cage and chassis in it and I've been doing a fair amount of work to it.

[dhdh71]

I think you make many very valid points about the 210 being the best tool for this type of fabrication. I get great looking and strong welds out of it, and it is fast to use. My problem is that I am a perfectionist. As nice as the mig welds look though, they honestly don't compare imo to a tig weld in terms of bead profile, and a leave it alone don't grind it cuz it looks great tig weld does9even in steel). Though I realize the tig is nowhere near the speed of mig to complete, I'm not looking to create the fastest weld, just the nicest(and strongest!) weld I can create. All of my car fabrication projects are not weld it to get it done fast type, but ones that I am spending great amounts of time to make as perfect as I am capable. With this im mind is tig still a waste of time for steel use? Not that I believe my cars are the best out there by any means, but here are a couple of my current one I am proud of, though they are COMPLETELY diiferent types of projects(I like many styles )
The first pics are a 98 S10 with a mandrel bent frame I designed and built with a custom ifs and rx7 turbo irs. It is airbagged with 20" rims, and when the bags are fully deflates it lays the rock panels flat on the ground. It will not be a driver though.
Then from the opposite side of the spectrum is a fenderless 39 dodge truck that I am building as a fun driver. It has a simple traditional hot rod look, with a frame I built from 2x3 box. it is z'ed 3" up front, with a 12" rear kick-up. It has 394 olds power, and will be chopped and channeled, painted satin dark blue with red steelies/suspension/motor for a traditional feel. And I am building a shortened bed as well.
Sorry for the off topic, just wanted to give a better feel for what I am building, And thanks again for the help everybody!

[burninbriar]

Nice shop,I wish I had that much room.The 39 dodge looks like a fun project I would enjoy.I'd like to see it when its done.