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Also getting ready to buy a 200DX. Some Q's.

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  • Scott V
    replied
    Originally posted by fun4now
    it is in the miller 2005 catalog, but no $$$$ on it. from the looks of the link scott V gave us its a bit higher than i would have expected.

    they have it in 14 and the 6 pin options.
    It had two buttons setups on the total. The CK ones are about 170.00 with the built in button in the handle. If you build your own and can find the amphenol plug cheap, it really is the way to go.

    Here is some info on them. Binzel sells the buttons for $15.00 and the rest is up to you.


    http://www.electronicind.com/
    http://www.mouser.com/
    http://www.digikey.com/





    From: Ernie Leimkuhler

    Lots of online dealers

    http://www.connectworld.net/space/

    For more dealers, do a google search for "Amphenol connectors"

    Here is some info I posted before:

    Most welding machine connectros are Series -97 Amphenol.

    The actual catalog for 97-Series connectors used for Welding machine
    remote
    connectors is this one.

    http://www.amphenol-aerospace.com/ca...zip/12-022.zip

    Once you have the number of the part you want you call one of these
    suppliers

    Powel Electronics 800-235-7880
    TTI Electronics 800-225-5884
    Arrow Electronics 800-388-2277
    AVNet Electronics 800-332-8638

    The connector used by Miller for all 14-pin connections is a
    #97-4106A-20-27-P,
    with strain relief #97-3507-12

    I just ordered 4 of each from Powel, at $18.20 each for the connector
    and $7.05
    each for the strain relief.

    Quite painless once you know who to talk to.

    Miller charges about $50 for that connector and theirs are plastic.
    The ones I ordered are real Mil spec metal connectors.

    The way Amphenol lists their parts is kind of simple.
    They are all Series 97 connectors.
    Next is what shell it uses, then the insert number
    The core of a connector is the insert, which is specified by the
    diameter in
    Millimeters and the type#, so the 14-pin connector used by Miller is
    actually a 20-27.
    After that goes an S for Socket or a P for Pin.

    Some other connector numbers.

    Lincoln 6 pin 18-12
    Miller 5 pin 16S-8
    Lincoln 5 pin 16-11
    Hobart 5 pin 18-20
    Hobart 10 pin 18-19

    Leave a comment:


  • fun4now
    replied
    2005 catalog

    it is in the miller 2005 catalog, but no $$$$ on it. from the looks of the link scott V gave us its a bit higher than i would have expected.

    they have it in 14 and the 6 pin options.

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul Seaman
    replied
    Your the man, Thank you.

    A new item for my wish list.

    Thanks again,

    Leave a comment:


  • Scott V
    replied
    You mean like this?

    http://millerwelds.com/rfq/index.php...d=187208&qty=1

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul Seaman
    replied
    Scott that is pretty slick, this could be an option in an upcoming catalog I think I may look for a similar setup for doing chassis tubing. I am not steady with the roll amp control {actually shake like I've got detox tremors} so the end of my weld looks like dodo.

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • HAWK
    replied
    Kevin,

    You do not know what you are missing. Scott is onto something here. It really does work. You can test drive your dynasty by setting up the sequencer and using the foot pedal strictly as a push button switch: each time you tap the pedal it acts like pushing the button.

    Leave a comment:


  • KB Fabrications
    replied
    Originally posted by Scott V
    The other thing for me is that both of these tig units (like the migs) are just tools for me to do my work.

    I was wondering if you use all the features the one tool has to offer?

    Tonight I finally got around to building a button control for my Thermal.
    I used a free Lincoln Amphenol plug that my friend at the welding store gave me. The 14 pin plug is clocked different then a Thermal or a Miller machine, but it was easy to take apart to change it to fit. I also used a Binzel button for $15.00.
    What this does for me is turns on my sequencer (upslope/downslope) for out of position welding. It's not just the four step deal that is handy its the repeat mode for controlling the weld current for when the puddle get too hot. You hit the button when in the repeat mode it will drop the current and ramp back up when you let go. It will always ramp up until you go past the downslope time you set on the machine. It's very cool for welding even aluminum with a button control only. To me, it beats a hard to use torch mounted amp control by a mile.

    Anyway your dynasty has the same feature and I have only heard Hawk talk about using one.
    Scott,
    That sounds like a nifty setup. I have yet to use or need the sequencing option on my Dynasty. In almost everthing I tig weld, I am able to use my foot control (my knee is even getting pretty good ) and I don't have a finger controller. I have also gotten pretty clever with that foot pedal (clamps, bolts, stepstools, etc.) in some tricky out of position stuff but usually that is the rare exception rather than the norm.

    Leave a comment:


  • Scott V
    replied
    The other thing for me is that both of these tig units (like the migs) are just tools for me to do my work.

    I was wondering if you use all the features the one tool has to offer?

    Tonight I finally got around to building a button control for my Thermal.
    I used a free Lincoln Amphenol plug that my friend at the welding store gave me. The 14 pin plug is clocked different then a Thermal or a Miller machine, but it was easy to take apart to change it to fit. I also used a Binzel button for $15.00.
    What this does for me is turns on my sequencer (upslope/downslope) for out of position welding. It's not just the four step deal that is handy its the repeat mode for controlling the weld current for when the puddle get too hot. You hit the button when in the repeat mode it will drop the current and ramp back up when you let go. It will always ramp up until you go past the downslope time you set on the machine. It's very cool for welding even aluminum with a button control only. To me, it beats a hard to use torch mounted amp control by a mile.

    Anyway your dynasty has the same feature and I have only heard Hawk talk about using one.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • KB Fabrications
    replied
    Originally posted by Scott V
    Hey,
    Kevin if you had both your rigs with water-cooling and had some aluminum fillet welds to do on .125. Which machine would you grab first, your dynasty 200 or your PT 275?
    Interesting question. The PT275 does have a water cooler and usually gets the nod for anything 1/4" and up. I run the Dynasty almost exclusively on anything below that. Mostly that is due to reduced energy input and the portability in the shop that the Dynasty provides. It's also a lot less noisy than the PT 275 (the fan runs all the time while welding and shuts off only after being idle for 8 minutes). Even if the Dynasty was water cooled I think the split would probably remain the same. I hope that answers it.


    It actually took me a while to get used to the Dynasty. While it welds great, I really did not like the arc initially. I am so used to my PT 275's arc (absolutely sweet, steel or aluminum) that it was a real struggle for me at first. The other thing for me is that both of these tig units (like the migs) are just tools for me to do my work. At this point, I really don't prefer one over the other but each has its strong points for a given job.

    Leave a comment:


  • fun4now
    replied
    they sell the Diamondback 200A torch with/without a valve. What is this valve and should I spend the extra $30 now to get it?

    just incase ya missed it no you do not want the valve on the torch the dynasty is equipt with a silinoid to controle the gas.

    also the dynasty is rated at 60% duys cycle at 150Amps so a 100%duty cycle at 150Amp torch is realy rated higher than the dynasty. as stated it will get hot on the higher side but so too will the dynasty they are matched by duty cycle and the #17 is millers choice in the air cooled torch for that reason.
    hope this simplifyed it for ya it through me for a loop when i first started looking at TIG also

    Leave a comment:


  • Scott V
    replied
    Having both setups, like a decent air-cooled torch with the different heads is the way to go . The watercooled setup is sure nice for tungsten life, from what I found. Then you have the best of both worlds.
    The Ck dinse water-cooled adapter can stay with the cooler, if you want to grab the machine and go. The dynasty is a little different setup (I believe ) but it will work the same. A few gas disconnects work well too.

    Hey,
    Kevin if you had both your rigs with water-cooling and had some aluminum fillet welds to do on .125. Which machine would you grab first, your dynasty 200 or your PT 275?
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • KB Fabrications
    replied
    Originally posted by HAWK
    millermania,

    Kevin is 100% correct! The only side effects you will see from using a #17 150 amp air cooled torch or even a #26 200 amp air cooled unit (also larger and bulkier) for 140 amps plus is the torch will become hot to the touch under constant use. If you are considering changing torches, then a water cooled #20 with a Coolmate 3 or 4 is about the only feasible choice. It is a much smaller and lighter unit and will weld with the D200DX all day without heating up! If you use a water cooled torch, you must have a cooler to circulate the coolant otherwise the torch will burn up. Good luck with your new Dynasty!
    HAWK makes a great point about the water cooled #20. I did not bring up the water cooled option 1) because of your original post and 2) because I use the #17 air cooled torch on my Dynasty (I have to keep that machine portable).

    If you don't need the portability feature of the 200DX, a water cooler set up with a #20 wc torch would seem ideal. Good luck!

    Leave a comment:


  • GARAGEGADGETS
    replied
    Torch & Controls

    Miller makes a real nice multi changeable head torch to help in different welding applications, something to think about. Also the next big decision is the control whether you want a hand or a foot control, there are pro's & con's to both. Miller offers two different hand styles, thumb wheel rotates side to side and the other thumb wheel rotates up & down.

    Leave a comment:


  • jeffscarstrucks
    replied
    I would have to recomend that you evaluate your true range of use that you will normally fall into. While I do have the above mentioned equipment, I find that my little #9 air cooled is my most used up to 100A(not full time 100!). I had a #17 as my only torch for a long time and was always happy with it because it would support a wide range of tungsten sizes. There is no doubt that water cooled is the nicest for long term use and comfort but I think that a 17 will get you up and running while you learn the ropes! Let us know how it goes. Good Luck, JEFF

    Leave a comment:


  • Danny
    replied
    A 200 amp air cooled torch is pretty large and little awkward to work with, plus due to there physical size they aren t good for tight quarters. I'd stick with the 150 amp air cooled for now, and start saving for a water cooling system so that you can run a smaller torch ( physical size) then the 150 amp air cooled at higher amperages.

    Leave a comment:

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