Also getting ready to buy a 200DX. Some Q's.

[millermania]

After reading everything I could find on TIG in the past 6 months, I'm getting ready to buy a D200DX. A few questions before I make the purchase. Most places recommend the contractors kit but that seems to come with a 150A torch. Won't this prevent me from using the 200DX to it's full potential? I would think a 200A torch would be a better buy. Also, they sell the Diamondback 200A torch with/without a valve. What is this valve and should I spend the extra $30 now to get it?

Thanks for all the awesome info you guys have shared on here!

[KB Fabrications]

After reading everything I could find on TIG in the past 6 months, I'm getting ready to buy a D200DX. A few questions before I make the purchase. Most places recommend the contractors kit but that seems to come with a 150A torch. Won't this prevent me from using the 200DX to it's full potential? I would think a 200A torch would be a better buy. Also, they sell the Diamondback 200A torch with/without a valve. What is this valve and should I spend the extra $30 now to get it?

Thanks for all the awesome info you guys have shared on here!

Torches are rated for 100% duty cycle so a 150 amp torch on that machine will most likely do all that you will need. I have personally welded at my D200Dx's full capacity on aluminum and steel with the Diamondback #17 that I have with no ill effects. As for a torch with a valve, the only reason you would need that is if your machine did not have a gas solenoid to cycle on and off, thus helping to regulate gas flow.

[HAWK]

millermania,

Kevin is 100% correct! The only side effects you will see from using a #17 150 amp air cooled torch or even a #26 200 amp air cooled unit (also larger and bulkier) for 140 amps plus is the torch will become hot to the touch under constant use. If you are considering changing torches, then a water cooled #20 with a Coolmate 3 or 4 is about the only feasible choice. It is a much smaller and lighter unit and will weld with the D200DX all day without heating up! If you use a water cooled torch, you must have a cooler to circulate the coolant otherwise the torch will burn up. Good luck with your new Dynasty!

[Danny]

A 200 amp air cooled torch is pretty large and little awkward to work with, plus due to there physical size they aren t good for tight quarters. I'd stick with the 150 amp air cooled for now, and start saving for a water cooling system so that you can run a smaller torch ( physical size) then the 150 amp air cooled at higher amperages.

[jeffscarstrucks]

I would have to recomend that you evaluate your true range of use that you will normally fall into. While I do have the above mentioned equipment, I find that my little #9 air cooled is my most used up to 100A(not full time 100!). I had a #17 as my only torch for a long time and was always happy with it because it would support a wide range of tungsten sizes. There is no doubt that water cooled is the nicest for long term use and comfort but I think that a 17 will get you up and running while you learn the ropes! Let us know how it goes. Good Luck, JEFF

[GARAGEGADGETS]

Torch & Controls

Miller makes a real nice multi changeable head torch to help in different welding applications, something to think about. Also the next big decision is the control whether you want a hand or a foot control, there are pro's & con's to both. Miller offers two different hand styles, thumb wheel rotates side to side and the other thumb wheel rotates up & down.

[KB Fabrications]

millermania,

Kevin is 100% correct! The only side effects you will see from using a #17 150 amp air cooled torch or even a #26 200 amp air cooled unit (also larger and bulkier) for 140 amps plus is the torch will become hot to the touch under constant use. If you are considering changing torches, then a water cooled #20 with a Coolmate 3 or 4 is about the only feasible choice. It is a much smaller and lighter unit and will weld with the D200DX all day without heating up! If you use a water cooled torch, you must have a cooler to circulate the coolant otherwise the torch will burn up. Good luck with your new Dynasty!

HAWK makes a great point about the water cooled #20. I did not bring up the water cooled option 1) because of your original post and 2) because I use the #17 air cooled torch on my Dynasty (I have to keep that machine portable).

If you don't need the portability feature of the 200DX, a water cooler set up with a #20 wc torch would seem ideal. Good luck!

[Scott V]

Having both setups, like a decent air-cooled torch with the different heads is the way to go . The watercooled setup is sure nice for tungsten life, from what I found. Then you have the best of both worlds.
The Ck dinse water-cooled adapter can stay with the cooler, if you want to grab the machine and go. The dynasty is a little different setup (I believe ) but it will work the same. A few gas disconnects work well too.

Hey,
Kevin if you had both your rigs with water-cooling and had some aluminum fillet welds to do on .125. Which machine would you grab first, your dynasty 200 or your PT 275?

[fun4now]

they sell the Diamondback 200A torch with/without a valve. What is this valve and should I spend the extra $30 now to get it?

just incase ya missed it no you do not want the valve on the torch the dynasty is equipt with a silinoid to controle the gas.

also the dynasty is rated at 60% duys cycle at 150Amps so a 100%duty cycle at 150Amp torch is realy rated higher than the dynasty. as stated it will get hot on the higher side but so too will the dynasty they are matched by duty cycle and the #17 is millers choice in the air cooled torch for that reason.
hope this simplifyed it for ya it through me for a loop when i first started looking at TIG also

[KB Fabrications]

Hey,
Kevin if you had both your rigs with water-cooling and had some aluminum fillet welds to do on .125. Which machine would you grab first, your dynasty 200 or your PT 275?

Interesting question. The PT275 does have a water cooler and usually gets the nod for anything 1/4" and up. I run the Dynasty almost exclusively on anything below that. Mostly that is due to reduced energy input and the portability in the shop that the Dynasty provides. It's also a lot less noisy than the PT 275 (the fan runs all the time while welding and shuts off only after being idle for 8 minutes). Even if the Dynasty was water cooled I think the split would probably remain the same. I hope that answers it.


It actually took me a while to get used to the Dynasty. While it welds great, I really did not like the arc initially. I am so used to my PT 275's arc (absolutely sweet, steel or aluminum) that it was a real struggle for me at first. The other thing for me is that both of these tig units (like the migs) are just tools for me to do my work. At this point, I really don't prefer one over the other but each has its strong points for a given job.

[Scott V]

The other thing for me is that both of these tig units (like the migs) are just tools for me to do my work.

I was wondering if you use all the features the one tool has to offer?

Tonight I finally got around to building a button control for my Thermal.
I used a free Lincoln Amphenol plug that my friend at the welding store gave me. The 14 pin plug is clocked different then a Thermal or a Miller machine, but it was easy to take apart to change it to fit. I also used a Binzel button for $15.00.
What this does for me is turns on my sequencer (upslope/downslope) for out of position welding. It's not just the four step deal that is handy its the repeat mode for controlling the weld current for when the puddle get too hot. You hit the button when in the repeat mode it will drop the current and ramp back up when you let go. It will always ramp up until you go past the downslope time you set on the machine. It's very cool for welding even aluminum with a button control only. To me, it beats a hard to use torch mounted amp control by a mile.

Anyway your dynasty has the same feature and I have only heard Hawk talk about using one.

[KB Fabrications]

The other thing for me is that both of these tig units (like the migs) are just tools for me to do my work.

I was wondering if you use all the features the one tool has to offer?

Tonight I finally got around to building a button control for my Thermal.
I used a free Lincoln Amphenol plug that my friend at the welding store gave me. The 14 pin plug is clocked different then a Thermal or a Miller machine, but it was easy to take apart to change it to fit. I also used a Binzel button for $15.00.
What this does for me is turns on my sequencer (upslope/downslope) for out of position welding. It's not just the four step deal that is handy its the repeat mode for controlling the weld current for when the puddle get too hot. You hit the button when in the repeat mode it will drop the current and ramp back up when you let go. It will always ramp up until you go past the downslope time you set on the machine. It's very cool for welding even aluminum with a button control only. To me, it beats a hard to use torch mounted amp control by a mile.

Anyway your dynasty has the same feature and I have only heard Hawk talk about using one.

Scott,
That sounds like a nifty setup. I have yet to use or need the sequencing option on my Dynasty. In almost everthing I tig weld, I am able to use my foot control (my knee is even getting pretty good ) and I don't have a finger controller. I have also gotten pretty clever with that foot pedal (clamps, bolts, stepstools, etc.) in some tricky out of position stuff but usually that is the rare exception rather than the norm.

[HAWK]

Kevin,

You do not know what you are missing. Scott is onto something here. It really does work. You can test drive your dynasty by setting up the sequencer and using the foot pedal strictly as a push button switch: each time you tap the pedal it acts like pushing the button.

[Paul Seaman]

Scott that is pretty slick, this could be an option in an upcoming catalog I think I may look for a similar setup for doing chassis tubing. I am not steady with the roll amp control {actually shake like I've got detox tremors** so the end of my weld looks like dodo.

Thanks

[Scott V]

You mean like this?

http://millerwelds.com/rfq/index.php...d=187208&qty=1