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Aluminum tig rod

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  • burninbriar
    replied
    I have a feeling this will be like skiing.You learn to do it fairly quick and spend the rest of you're life getting good at it.I couldn't beleive the weld I was able to make.Granted they were simple but and corner welds lying flat on the table.I've already completed my first project.I made an aluminum bottom for my neighbors sump pump.There is several places where the aluminum is sagging on the bottom, but the top looks nice.I'm Realy looking forward to getting some rod and see what I can do.

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  • Paul Seaman
    replied
    You'll like it, after the learning curve. I am still trying to get the solid handle on aluminum but am close to the point to where I feel comfortable with it, not proficient but comfortable. I can atleast see what I am doing wrong and work to correct it, which takes time and practice which is a hot commodity for me!

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  • burninbriar
    replied
    The 4043 definately sounds like the rod for me.I guess its a combination of a great machine and the fact that until now all my nice welding has been done with OA torches that took me by suprise.I did not think I would be welding aluminum right off the bat.I was trying to cut thin pieces with hand shears but it was too tedious.If I knew what I was missing, I would have gotten a tig machine years ago.I only used a tig once befor and the guy had me trying to braze with it,whitch I later found out is supposed to be the most dificult thing to do with tig.After spending the morning cleaning brass off the tungsten the boss and I went to drink beer and wait for his regular welder to come back.He didn't braze it,he welded the parts and had a good laugh at us.
    Pete

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  • Paul Seaman
    replied
    4043 is generally considered the generic fitall. It will wet out the best, I like 4043 for most grades of Aluminum. I gave $5.30 per lb of 1/16"-4043-36".

    Hope this helps,

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  • eric75
    replied
    If you have a sheet metal shear, a low budget alternative is to shear off very narrow strips of the same stuff your welding.

    I don't know if it would hold up for x-ray inspection, but plenty good for practicing and making quick parts.

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  • burninbriar
    replied
    Thanks for the advice.Know all I need is a local welding supply open on sunday.Oh well.
    Pete

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  • joebass
    replied
    I would buy 4043 filler in 1/16, 3/32, and 1/8. I use 4043 most of the time unless the part needs anodizing then 5356. 4047 is my choice for castings.

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  • GARAGEGADGETS
    replied
    Wire Size

    Usually the smaller diameter the wire the more expensive it is .Because it takes more piece to make a pound, the same goes for mig wire ,it takes more feet to make a pound.If you go to millers literature section , you can download imformation that they have in their tig book that can really be helpful along with imformation you get from this forum .Good welding

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  • burninbriar
    started a topic Aluminum tig rod

    Aluminum tig rod

    When I purchased my welder I didn't buy any aluminum supplys becouse I figured it would be quite awhile until I'm ready to tackle it.I started playing with some scrap aluminum and this Syncrowave 250 is just blowing me away with what it will do.I've been doing but and corner welds on .090 without any filler.I tryed a T joint but its not cuttin the mustard without filler.I would apreciate it if some one could give me some advice on rods.I don't know what grade the Aluminum I have is so an all around rod would be nice if there is such a thing.What I will be working with ranges in thicknes from .030 to .090.If I buy aluminum I would want a grade thats soft and bendable.Also I wonder if any one knows why rods very in price so much acording to diamiter.I saw 36" 5356 rods $2.75 per LB for 5/32 to $13.75 per LB for .030.A pounds a pound regardless of diameter.It woud seem it costs more to snip the wire to 36" lengths than the wire itself costs.
    Pete
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