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  • MIG Weld Beads ?

    I have been paying close attention to the pics that have been getting posted showing weld beads with MIG. It appears like there are 2 types, the first type looks like a row of dimes stacked on top of one another and the second type looks like one long smooth bead. VArious threads have commented that both beads look "great". Which bead is correct or better? Does the "dime" bead happen with more of a nothched travel speed (stop ...go...stop...)as opposed to the long smooth bead has a continuous travel speed? Is the smooth bead a result of to much heat therfore not resulting in the "dime " look. Just tying to wipe out bad habits now instead of later.

    I have looked back on some of my past work and it looks like I have done a little bit of both...different machines

    Maybe I sound to **** but I will be welding on the rollcage soon and I don't want to get it wrong

    I will be practicing this weekend...

    Thanks
    Chris
    87' Mustang GT - Blown 306 Road Racer
    Millermatic 210
    Spectrum 375
    [email protected]
    www.ckvalentidesigns.com

  • #2
    This question comes up quite often...which is better single pass or weave?

    My technique is a circular motion which produces a stack of dimes, when you look at it. It must be undrstood that a MIG weld only penetrates where the arc sweeps over new base metal...therefore the circular technique starts with a sweep forward to catch new metal, and then back to fill. The straight line method while looks nice, is easy to have the weld metal pile up on you and get no penetration. You have to really know what you are looking at to be sure in that technique. The arc must be at the very front of the puddle.

    Hope this helps
    Arcin' and Sparkin', Rocky D

    "Experience is the name we give our mistakes"

    Comment


    • #3
      I'll just add that at the beginning of the mig weld, there's a brief period where it's hot enough to melt the filler wire, but it doesn't necessarily get good penetration. I've seen some "stack of dimes" welds that are really a bunch of starting and stopping, and I'd be very surprised if they had the consistent fusion in the base metals that RockyD's circular pattern will produce.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by ChrisV
        I have been paying close attention to the pics that have been getting posted showing weld beads with MIG. It appears like there are 2 types, the first type looks like a row of dimes stacked on top of one another and the second type looks like one long smooth bead. VArious threads have commented that both beads look "great". Which bead is correct or better? Does the "dime" bead happen with more of a nothched travel speed (stop ...go...stop...)as opposed to the long smooth bead has a continuous travel speed? Is the smooth bead a result of to much heat therfore not resulting in the "dime " look. Just tying to wipe out bad habits now instead of later.

        I have looked back on some of my past work and it looks like I have done a little bit of both...different machines

        Maybe I sound to **** but I will be welding on the rollcage soon and I don't want to get it wrong

        I will be practicing this weekend...

        Thanks
        I think you are better off run ning a straight bead until you have the circular motion down pat. Too many novices want t oachieve the stack of dimes look without getting the technique mastered.

        Comment


        • #5
          rocky makes a good point...........but i would have to say that its about the aplication.........example

          the STACKED DIME weld would not be good for sheet metal. do to warpage.

          a FLAT STRAIGHT weld would not be good for anything thick........lets say 3/16 and over.......

          but now you must also factor in what sheilding gas.......?

          what mode of mig you are in........ie spray or short circut/ globluar

          joint prep ?

          and if you are going to FINISH DRESS the weld ?

          dawg

          Comment


          • #6
            Here again ford vs. chevy, I believe if the penetration is there and the weld is done with the proper setup and speed the finish difference is only asthetic.

            This is assuming proper setup and a competant operator. I would worry less about the appearance and more on the functionality. ANDY and HAWK could show you both welds on the same material with the proper fusion and the only differance is asthetic.

            Do what you can do well, and worry less about they said this or that, if it works do it.

            Peace,

            Comment


            • #7
              I think Rocky D hit the nail on the head. I have agreed with him twice in one week!!!
              Watch out for the Meteor !!!

              Comment


              • #8
                PJ brings up a point I left out of my post, and that is what ever works for you is best....I use the circular motion, (more of an elipse, really) because I can control it well....when I use the straight line pass, I can never get it to look good, with the exception of my spray arc....there I use the "C" motion.
                <((((((( weld right to left. It's what works for me. I have done all my certs that way, so I know what the penetration is.
                Arcin' and Sparkin', Rocky D

                "Experience is the name we give our mistakes"

                Comment


                • #9
                  In short circuit transfer mode on 1/4" (99% of the time) and sometimes on 3/16", I use the same circular oscillation that Rocky uses, for basically the reason already stated. On 1/8" and thinner I just travel straight. Ok, I might use a little side to side wiggle on the 1/8". When I choose to travel straight on 3/16" I use a little side to side wiggle.

                  For spray arc I general travel straight. If i have to use any type of oscillation I just use a little side to side weave.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Gee Dan,
                    Those welds look pretty good but it still looks like you might want to practice a bit.

                    (Stack O' Smiles)

                    Nice Work!
                    Dynasty 350DX
                    Dynasty 200DX TigRunner
                    MM 350P
                    MM Passport Plus
                    Spectrum 375 Extreme
                    08' Trailblazer 302

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Dan I oscillate just because my hands shake too bad to call it straight stringer beads. In other words my hand shakes so I call it oscillation!!! You should see me tig{hilarious**, I hold on to the table to stop the world from moving so much, just kiddin.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        i do the circular motion also. basicaly 2 steps up, and 1 step back. i find it adds more heat to maximize my little machines ability. they come out just like (but not quite as nice) as Dans tig looking bead.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Hi All,
                          Well it's been a while since I posted (getting married takes up a lot of time!!) but in this initial post I said that I would practice and get back with the results. Well finnaly I have some pics for review. I basically practiced the looping "l" as described by Dan, also played with the 210's wire speed and voltage. Really starting to get use to the machine... In the pcs I am welding 1/8" flat stock to 1" square tubing for gates I am building.
                          Attached Files
                          Chris
                          87' Mustang GT - Blown 306 Road Racer
                          Millermatic 210
                          Spectrum 375
                          [email protected]
                          www.ckvalentidesigns.com

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            If I thought I would have been taking pics of it I would have been more careful along the top edge, C25 035 Hobart wire. 1/4 inch to 1/2 For some reasom the attatch window wouldnt open, use link.
                            http://www.urkafarms.com/Welder_Pict...art_wire_3.JPG And, I dont remember what the motion was,,, ha,,, Likely a little weave but mostly just cranked it up.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Cary, whacha doin puttin up one of Dan's welds...Hhmmmm????
                              Arcin' and Sparkin', Rocky D

                              "Experience is the name we give our mistakes"

                              Comment

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