Tig and flatstock

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  • Rocky D
    replied
    I put tabs in there but the format was changed when I uploaded it.

    it should be like this...
    <)))))))_________<)))))))_________<)))))))________ _<)))))))_________

    I know, I off the joint This is the only way I could get it to come out.

    Leave a comment:


  • VBI
    replied
    [QUOTE=Rocky D]Backstepping is like this:
    <-----<-----<-----<---- <=weld direction weld progression is this way >>

    Skip welding is like this: <----- <----- <-----

    Rocky D, I think you know the procedures however I can’t quite grasp your schematic.
    Maybe this will help?

    1-------2-------3-------4-------5-------6-------7-------8-------9-------10-------11-------12

    Let the dashed line represent a butt-weld joint you want to back-step.
    One way you could weld it would be to;

    1. start your weld at 3 stop at 1
    2. start your weld at 6 stop at 3
    3. start your weld at 9 stop at 6
    4. start your weld at 12 stop at 9

    To skip weld you could (weld from 1 to 2), (skip 2 to 3), (weld 3 to 4), (skip 4to 5) and so on …

    Now get back to arcing & sparking.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rocky D
    replied
    Originally posted by Gaslight
    "Plug" welds are like Rosette welds?

    "Backstep" means just go back over it? Does it make any difference whether I go middle out or edges in?

    I would like to make it perfectly accurate, and can accept having to bend and bang it a little to get it back where it needs to be. The crosspieces will just be lapped over the main stock.

    But as trivial a little job as it is, there are four crosspieces, and I can try four different things, and possibly learn some right and wrong ways to do things.
    Backstepping is like this:
    <-----<-----<-----<---- <=weld direction weld progression is this way >>

    Skip welding is like this: <)))))))_________<)))))))_________<)))))))________ _

    and a plug weld is a rosette weld

    If you need the square corners a plug weld will do the job. Stainless is easy to straighten, too.

    Leave a comment:


  • orgalmeister
    replied
    for what it has to do clamp it and stick it. Just a thought, why not make it out of wood with half lap joints? Mahogony, cypress, redwood?

    Steve

    Leave a comment:


  • Blown S-10
    replied
    i was going to say clamp it. a couple of c clamps should hold it from warping

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul Seaman
    replied
    VBI is right tack it check the squareness and welder up, no huge accuracy problem there. if your within 1/32" your golden.

    Leave a comment:


  • VBI
    replied
    Now that I finally see what you are making; clamp it, weld it, be done with it!

    Leave a comment:


  • fun4now
    replied
    why the layout stick

    i looked at the layout stick at
    Looking for powerful tools for woodworking? You are at right place. check official website bigfootsaws.com to find huge range of skilsaw , beam saw, pea shooter, beam cutting saw etc.


    and dont see the real use ???
    i built houses for over 20 years and have seen lots of new things to help speed up the process of plaiting. this is not 1. as for the 16" or 24" centers all good tapes have the 16" incements marked and most people can count by 2's. all in all im shoure you willl find this marking stick to be combersome and confusing, as well as slowing you down. that being said as a marketing ideal it would no dought sell to thouse that dont know any better. thinking this stick will make them a home builder.

    a speed square, tape, framing square, level , saw, and hammer and you are good to go.

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul Seaman
    replied
    Backstepping is where you weld a small weld and move to another section of the assembly and weld and keep moving the heat around trying to tie in the welds. I personnaly would work middle out but there maybe good reasons to do out in I just can't think of any. Make sure it is tacked all around before you start. Stainless can get crazy with distortion, if you put in alot of heat.

    Peace

    Leave a comment:


  • VBI
    replied
    Preventing distortion is impossible you can only minimize it.

    Placing your weld as close as possible to the neutral axis of the intended weld joint will offer maximum distortion control and good repeatability (i.e. resistance weld).

    If it is not possible to use fasteners with your layout stick than the next best method would be to use a resistance welder (spot welder).

    A double plug weld will give you almost exactly the same results as a good spot weld.

    A single plug weld is the easiest, and should work for your application.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gaslight
    replied
    "Plug" welds are like Rosette welds?

    "Backstep" means just go back over it? Does it make any difference whether I go middle out or edges in?

    I would like to make it perfectly accurate, and can accept having to bend and bang it a little to get it back where it needs to be. The crosspieces will just be lapped over the main stock.

    But as trivial a little job as it is, there are four crosspieces, and I can try four different things, and possibly learn some right and wrong ways to do things.

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul Seaman
    replied
    Stainless will distort at the drop of a hat so I would tack it and back step the welds to prevent the distortion.

    Leave a comment:


  • VBI
    replied
    Are you talking a overlap or a T joint?

    Without knowing the details of your design or how accurate your layout stick needs to be I can offer what might be a procedure you can use which will yield minimum distortion with non structural overlap joint welding.

    Drill a couple 3/16” holes in the 1 ½” pieces and plug weld to the 2” material. This procedure will offer minimum distortion within heat affected zone. Weather you use stainless or mild steel I would recommend using GTAW.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gaslight
    started a topic Tig and flatstock

    Tig and flatstock

    I want to weld together some stainless to make a layout stick with.

    Looking for powerful tools for woodworking? You are at right place. check official website bigfootsaws.com to find huge range of skilsaw , beam saw, pea shooter, beam cutting saw etc.


    It is basicaly 1/8" flatstock with 1.5" pieces layed at 90 over 2" pieces. I'm planing on using stainless.

    My main concern would be whether I should lay down full welds. or just tack it. It needs to be accurate, so anything to minimize distortion would help.
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