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If you build a frame and don't mount the top you can flip it over and use both sides if you should need to fixture an assembly then have to do another repair job. My current table is 3/16" steel and it is welded down and it will be the last time I do that, the top is rough and marred from grinding and tacking marks but the bottom is flat and clean, Kinda stupid in hind sight!
Another good reason not to weld the top to the framework. I had not thought of that originally but it makes total sense.
If you build a frame and don't mount the top you can flip it over and use both sides if you should need to fixture an assembly then have to do another repair job. My current table is 3/16" steel and it is welded down and it will be the last time I do that, the top is rough and marred from grinding and tacking marks but the bottom is flat and clean, Kinda stupid in hind sight!
Welding the frame to the top will not warp it, hardly at all. I know machinists build everything micrometer flat...not needed with a welding table. I have a 1/2" x 60" x 30" with the legs welded to the top and no frame.
I would put about 6 welds on it, one in each corner and a couple along the sides in the middle. It will stiffen it up a lot and isnt going to hurt anything, a couple inches in each place would be plenty.
I would attach the top to the base/legs just to stymy Murphy, who IS lurking. I would bolt it instead of weld it so as to be able to move it if needed, and a couple of bolts, at opposite corners, into tapped holes in the bottom of the top would do it.
Mind if I ask how much you paid for that 1/2" top, i want to make a 4x8 combo table, with 5' of 1/2" plate, and the other 3' flat bar for a plasma table. I was quoted $450 for a 4'x10' peice of 1/2" from a local steel supplier, to avoid a cut charge i was gonna get a 4'x10' peice of 1/4", cut it in half and stack it, its around $200 for that peice.... steel is so **** $$$$
Looking at the table from the end, this is how I usually brace flat plate using angle. It is much stronger than laying the angle flat against the plate.
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If you plan on attaching a vise to it, I would recommend welding it down.
If you plan on using it to bend steel, I would recommend welding it down.
I have a 3'x4'x1" plate for a table and it moved on me occasionally before I welded it down.
What are you going to use for legs? I am probably going to go with 1/4" x 3" square tube and use a 1/4" x 1.5" square tube stretcher framework.
Well I found some 4" looked like well casing at a scrap yard that was new so that will be the legs then what ever comes my way for the cross pieces.
I see what everyone says about the floting top not a bad idea how about just welding some stops on the inside of the legs to keep the top from sliding if trying to more. That way the top is not acutualy welded to the frame work.
sgoeing
Here is another idea, my neighbor built a welding table with 3/8 and instead of welding the top to the 2" square tubing frame, he drilled, countersunk the top and tapped the frame members. He used flat head allen scews, the only trick was he had a magnetic drill to make the drilling real easy. For whatever reason ,you can always change out the top and no grinding involved. I have plans for a new table next month and I think I am going to do it similar to this. My 1/4" 4' x 4' is warped
I have already made the frame and did in fact leave a 2 or 3 inch overhang all the way around. I like the idea of leaving the top as a floater, but wouldn't it be susceptible to warpage. I figured that welding it to the frame would help reduce the chances of warpage or other distortion quite a bit.
Thanks for the quick replies.
sgoeing
Unless you lay some beads right down on it's surface, the heat from actually welding something on it should not affect it. My 2' x 4' x 3/8" table has seen years of welding on it with no warpage problems.
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