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  • KB Fabrications
    replied
    Originally posted by pjseaman
    If you build a frame and don't mount the top you can flip it over and use both sides if you should need to fixture an assembly then have to do another repair job. My current table is 3/16" steel and it is welded down and it will be the last time I do that, the top is rough and marred from grinding and tacking marks but the bottom is flat and clean, Kinda stupid in hind sight!
    Another good reason not to weld the top to the framework. I had not thought of that originally but it makes total sense.

    Great suggestion pjs!

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  • Paul Seaman
    replied
    If you build a frame and don't mount the top you can flip it over and use both sides if you should need to fixture an assembly then have to do another repair job. My current table is 3/16" steel and it is welded down and it will be the last time I do that, the top is rough and marred from grinding and tacking marks but the bottom is flat and clean, Kinda stupid in hind sight!

    Leave a comment:


  • Rocky D
    replied
    Welding the frame to the top will not warp it, hardly at all. I know machinists build everything micrometer flat...not needed with a welding table. I have a 1/2" x 60" x 30" with the legs welded to the top and no frame.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Prices do very
    Shop around....

    Leave a comment:


  • JMFabrications
    replied
    I live 30 minutes outside of Philadelphia, the place I contacted was Hoover Steel www.hooversteel.com

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  • sgoeing
    replied
    The 2' X 3' 1/2" was about $160 at Metal Supermarkets.

    Leave a comment:


  • KB Fabrications
    replied
    Originally posted by Slag
    JMFabrications,
    Mind telling me what steel supplier you got those prices from?
    The price for 1/4"x4'x10' is cheaper than I can get it for.

    I'm in PA also.

    Thanks.
    That price sounds pretty good to me too. I was just quoted $360 for a 1/2" x 4' x 4' plate for my talble top.

    Leave a comment:


  • Slag
    replied
    JMFabrications,
    Mind telling me what steel supplier you got those prices from?
    The price for 1/4"x4'x10' is cheaper than I can get it for.

    I'm in PA also.

    Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sberry
    replied
    I would put about 6 welds on it, one in each corner and a couple along the sides in the middle. It will stiffen it up a lot and isnt going to hurt anything, a couple inches in each place would be plenty.

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  • honk
    replied
    I would attach the top to the base/legs just to stymy Murphy, who IS lurking. I would bolt it instead of weld it so as to be able to move it if needed, and a couple of bolts, at opposite corners, into tapped holes in the bottom of the top would do it.

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  • JMFabrications
    replied
    Mind if I ask how much you paid for that 1/2" top, i want to make a 4x8 combo table, with 5' of 1/2" plate, and the other 3' flat bar for a plasma table. I was quoted $450 for a 4'x10' peice of 1/2" from a local steel supplier, to avoid a cut charge i was gonna get a 4'x10' peice of 1/4", cut it in half and stack it, its around $200 for that peice.... steel is so **** $$$$

    Leave a comment:


  • Slag
    replied
    Looking at the table from the end, this is how I usually brace flat plate using angle. It is much stronger than laying the angle flat against the plate.

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    If you plan on attaching a vise to it, I would recommend welding it down.
    If you plan on using it to bend steel, I would recommend welding it down.

    I have a 3'x4'x1" plate for a table and it moved on me occasionally before I welded it down.

    Leave a comment:


  • GaryM
    replied
    Originally posted by KB Fabrications
    What are you going to use for legs? I am probably going to go with 1/4" x 3" square tube and use a 1/4" x 1.5" square tube stretcher framework.
    Well I found some 4" looked like well casing at a scrap yard that was new so that will be the legs then what ever comes my way for the cross pieces.

    I see what everyone says about the floting top not a bad idea how about just welding some stops on the inside of the legs to keep the top from sliding if trying to more. That way the top is not acutualy welded to the frame work.

    Gary

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  • ChrisV
    replied
    sgoeing
    Here is another idea, my neighbor built a welding table with 3/8 and instead of welding the top to the 2" square tubing frame, he drilled, countersunk the top and tapped the frame members. He used flat head allen scews, the only trick was he had a magnetic drill to make the drilling real easy. For whatever reason ,you can always change out the top and no grinding involved. I have plans for a new table next month and I think I am going to do it similar to this. My 1/4" 4' x 4' is warped

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  • KB Fabrications
    replied
    Originally posted by sgoeing
    I have already made the frame and did in fact leave a 2 or 3 inch overhang all the way around. I like the idea of leaving the top as a floater, but wouldn't it be susceptible to warpage. I figured that welding it to the frame would help reduce the chances of warpage or other distortion quite a bit.
    Thanks for the quick replies.
    sgoeing
    Unless you lay some beads right down on it's surface, the heat from actually welding something on it should not affect it. My 2' x 4' x 3/8" table has seen years of welding on it with no warpage problems.

    Leave a comment:

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