Question about welding table

[sgoeing]

I am picking up the top to my welding table tomorrow and have a quick question. The top is a piece of 2' x 3' 1/2" plate. The legs and frame are 3/16" 2" angle. Should I weld the top continuously along the frame or use short welds spaced out? Should both sides of the angle be welded to the top or just one?
Thanks
sgoeing

[GaryM]

when you weld the angle to the bottom do not weld completly this will put to much heat into the table and warp it.

Do a short 3" weld then go the oposite side of angle and move down about 6" then weld a short 3" weld and contune down the angle. This will keep the angle from pulling up on one side.

I need to get legs for my table top 4' x 4' x 5/8 A36 plate.

Good luck and hope your table turns out nice

Gary

[lramberson]

My table top is a floater ( term I was told) the table top is supported by angle iron frame & legs with the top being independent.. Heat & distortion not a problem

[VBI]

As GaryM suggested, stagger weld the angle iron to the table top with minimum weld bead so as not to warp the table surface.

You may want to consider leaving a minimum of 3” of table lip (overhang) around the entire perimeter from the angle iron frame. This will give you a flat surface under the table edge to use C-clamp and Vise-Grip type hold down fixtures.

[KB Fabrications]

Iramberson coined the "floater" term and I wholeheartedly agree. We have a 2' x 4' x 3/8" table top and the weight alone is enough to keep it from moving around (unless I hit it w/a 2# sledge ). Your 2' x 3' x 1/2" top would certainly do as well. I also agree with VBI about leaving yourself a clamping zone aroung the perimeter of the table. That really helps out.

I personally would not attach it not only to keep from warping but to also have the ease of moving it later if you need to. JMO

[sgoeing]

I have already made the frame and did in fact leave a 2 or 3 inch overhang all the way around. I like the idea of leaving the top as a floater, but wouldn't it be susceptible to warpage. I figured that welding it to the frame would help reduce the chances of warpage or other distortion quite a bit.
Thanks for the quick replies.
sgoeing

[KB Fabrications]

I need to get legs for my table top 4' x 4' x 5/8 A36 plate.

Gary,
That sounds like a table I am in the process of designing and building. Once again I would vote against welding that top to the frame. The weight of the top just makes in unneccesary IMHO unless there is some specific need.

What are you going to use for legs? I am probably going to go with 1/4" x 3" square tube and use a 1/4" x 1.5" square tube stretcher framework. The upper stretcher framework will also have some large threaded bushings welded into it so the top can be leveled with some bolts where the heads have been machined flat in a lathe. The legs will have similar design with a few inches of travel for height adjustability.

[KB Fabrications]

I have already made the frame and did in fact leave a 2 or 3 inch overhang all the way around. I like the idea of leaving the top as a floater, but wouldn't it be susceptible to warpage. I figured that welding it to the frame would help reduce the chances of warpage or other distortion quite a bit.
Thanks for the quick replies.
sgoeing

Unless you lay some beads right down on it's surface, the heat from actually welding something on it should not affect it. My 2' x 4' x 3/8" table has seen years of welding on it with no warpage problems.

[ChrisV]

sgoeing
Here is another idea, my neighbor built a welding table with 3/8 and instead of welding the top to the 2" square tubing frame, he drilled, countersunk the top and tapped the frame members. He used flat head allen scews, the only trick was he had a magnetic drill to make the drilling real easy. For whatever reason ,you can always change out the top and no grinding involved. I have plans for a new table next month and I think I am going to do it similar to this. My 1/4" 4' x 4' is warped

[GaryM]

What are you going to use for legs? I am probably going to go with 1/4" x 3" square tube and use a 1/4" x 1.5" square tube stretcher framework.

Well I found some 4" looked like well casing at a scrap yard that was new so that will be the legs then what ever comes my way for the cross pieces.

I see what everyone says about the floting top not a bad idea how about just welding some stops on the inside of the legs to keep the top from sliding if trying to more. That way the top is not acutualy welded to the frame work.

Gary

[imported_Slag]

Looking at the table from the end, this is how I usually brace flat plate using angle. It is much stronger than laying the angle flat against the plate.

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If you plan on attaching a vise to it, I would recommend welding it down.
If you plan on using it to bend steel, I would recommend welding it down.

I have a 3'x4'x1" plate for a table and it moved on me occasionally before I welded it down.

[JMFabrications]

Mind if I ask how much you paid for that 1/2" top, i want to make a 4x8 combo table, with 5' of 1/2" plate, and the other 3' flat bar for a plasma table. I was quoted $450 for a 4'x10' peice of 1/2" from a local steel supplier, to avoid a cut charge i was gonna get a 4'x10' peice of 1/4", cut it in half and stack it, its around $200 for that peice.... steel is so **** $$$$

[honk]

I would attach the top to the base/legs just to stymy Murphy, who IS lurking. I would bolt it instead of weld it so as to be able to move it if needed, and a couple of bolts, at opposite corners, into tapped holes in the bottom of the top would do it.

[Sberry]

I would put about 6 welds on it, one in each corner and a couple along the sides in the middle. It will stiffen it up a lot and isnt going to hurt anything, a couple inches in each place would be plenty.

[imported_Slag]

JMFabrications,
Mind telling me what steel supplier you got those prices from?
The price for 1/4"x4'x10' is cheaper than I can get it for.

I'm in PA also.

Thanks.