what kind of tig welder?????

[Teeps]

I think you meant to throw an "aluminum" in there somewhere.

But to answer your question, the advantage of the Dyn200dx is the controllable options on A/C (used for aluminum). Another great benefit is the electrical supply side, the dyn 200 takes much less amperage to get the same output, and will use less wattage to do the same job. However, you get more output for your buck on initial purchase with the sync250.
As far as stainless, I'm not sure if there is a benefit to either machine, I know it helps to have some inductance control on stainless.

If you need portability, comparing the dyn200dx to the sync250, it's like comparing a car to a house. Dyn200dx you can put on a shoulder strap.
You need a fork lift for the syncro.

Most steel is done on DC current, and the syncro does DC great.

Good Luck!!!

[Paul Seaman]

I've done SS on the 200 dx and it is great, 308ss rod flows like butter!!!!

[Demonknight]

I`ve never had the opportunity to weld with a Dyn 200dx, but i have years and years of experiece with the Sync 250dx and i love it. You can order it loaded with features such as pulseing, but i doubt you`d really need these as a beginner in a home workshop situation. The syncrowave balance lets you taylor the weld characteristics to any situations you would encounter welding aluminum. I`ve welded aluminum from the thickness of the bottom of a beer can all the way up to 4"by 5"" solid billet for a job at the Port of L. A. You can use a mixture of argon and helium, (ex. 75%he,25%ar.) to weld thicker sections of alum without stressing your machine. The Sync 250 would require about 90 amps on 220-230 volts as mentioned by others. If your restricted on voltage the other machine might be the better choice. I usually try to have 100 volts to power any of my welding equiptment in my home shop.
This is truely an awesome mid-range machine and performs great on alum., stainless steel, steel, and bronze. They are used exclusively at my jobsite, and is my welder of choice for my home workshop. If you have the power available, you really cant go wrong with this machine and you`ll not likely outgrow it.
Good luck on your decision!
Dave.

[samtucan11]

I would just like to thank everyone for their responses to my questions. Hopefully I will make the correct decision when buying my tig welder. If you have any other suggestions do not hesitate to post, the more I learn the better. Thanks again.

[arcdawg]

i saw that you want to TIG weld 1/2 steel ?

you would be better off stick/mig welding it........tigging something that thick isnt cost/time productive.........

what kind of skills do you have ?

either of the two machines that you are looking at dont have the easiest learning curves and it sure would suck to drop all of that cash and not be able to use the rig..........right ?

maybe a mm251 with spool gun would better suit your needs ?

d-

[tomasharvey]

Selection Selection

Hello,

One option for the thicker steel is good old SMAW (stick welding). The Dynasty machines are very capable stick machines as well as TIG welding power sources.

I use my MIG before using stick, but it's all preference. I would try to weld with as many machines as you can before buying. Sounds a bit strange, but dropping $2000 on a model you have never used can be a bit nerve racking!?

I would hate to bring up a non-Miller product but there are a few multi-process machines out there that may be the ticket...you will however be limited to DC welding so your aluminum will be on hold...IE Those "yellow" machines on Monster Garage.

Last but not least, find out what type of amp draw your selection has and your power available.

Tom
MM 350P
MM135
SD180
Dynasty 200 SD
Spectrum 2050

[burninbriar]

I just purchased a syncrowve 250DX and I can give some helpful facts.
1) weighs 400 LB
2)At 230 volt input it draws 77 amps at 200 amp rated output.
3)Calls for 125 amp fuse or breaker.My breaker costs $50.00
4)6 guage wire and if you want a plug and resepticle rated at that amperage the price I got from my supplyer was around $300.00.I'm hard wireing mine and installing adisconnect switch;$125.00
5)the pulser is $190.00 and very easy to install I am told.I'm waiting for my skills to improve befor makeing this purchase.(nice that its an option)
I hope this helps in some way.
pete

[VBI]

tomasharvey,

I would hate to bring up a non-Miller product but there are a few multi-process machines out there that may be the ticket...you will however be limited to DC welding so your aluminum will be on hold...IE Those "yellow" machines on Monster Garage.

Tom, I was wondering about the non-Miller related comments also, however this site is open to most anyone (I suppose) and I would think Miller could use any comments/information on competitive equipment to their advantage.

Even though I own Miller products, I bought a Lincoln multi-process Power Mig 300 two years ago specifically for one welding job I was doing where the material was 10 gauge 316 SS that had to have no spatter. There was no way to economically use TIG.

This machine fit the bill because it included pulse and pulse on pulse features good for feeding solid 316LSI and aluminum wire.

It is CV and CC with all the toys to control both processes in between, plus manual over-ride, where you are basically on your own, however I think that I only have used manual twice when I used the CC mode with stainless stick for an odd-ball job. I have Pulsed ½” 6061 tube to ¾” 6061 plate with no problem. The wire feed system rivals the most heavy duty industrial feeders out there and is capable of up to 3/64” aluminum wire, and steel wire from .023” to .045”.

Technology has come a long way since my first wire feeder, a Millermatic 200 purchased in 1986. It has the High and Low voltage jacks and the Tapped transformer 6 position voltage settings. I will never part with that machine. For the last 5 years it has been loaded with .045” EXCEL-71 outershield and is the most stable, reliable machine I have.

Finally, I have to tell you that I had to get the Lincoln Trouble-shooter out to get dialed in with the 316 LSI, after which the stainless job went great with as spatter-free a weld I have ever made. That fact alone saves me major labor for the secondary operations of that job.

I hope Andy doesn’t kick me off this site.