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welder settings and advice?

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  • welder settings and advice?

    I posted a few days ago that I had just received my Dyn 200dx, well I have been practicing a little each night for the past two nights and have a picture of my most recent weld. Please take a look at the picture and let me know if I am headed in the right direction, or if I need to tweek my settings.
    http://home.nc.rr.com/saltrunner/DSCF0174.JPG

    Setup: 100% Argon, 15cfh, 125 A, 75% Balance, 150 Hz, 3/32" 2% ceriated, #7 cup, 1/8" 6061 Al

    A few things I am not sure about is if the weld is supposed to penetrate completely though the sheet and how it should look. I was working on this bead (I had made a few smaller 1" beads and waited a few minutes) and the fan kicked in on the welder, is this a bad thing? How long of a weld should I be able to make before letting the welder cool?

    Thanks,
    -Michael

  • #2
    I was curious about the 200 so I just had a look at it's spec sheet. On some machines the fan runs all the time. The 200 has 'fan on demand' magic which turns the fan on relative to how much welding you have done as compared to running all the time, even at idle. You do not have to stop welding when you hear it come on. The 200 also has 'thermal overload protection' which will shut it down automatically if it's duty cycle is exceeded. This doesn't mean you run her till she kicks out all the time, just an extra safety device. Looking at the chart, if you have 230 volt input you should be able to tig weld at 125 amps at 100% of the time. If you're hooked up 120 volt you would be limited to welding about 5 minutes out of 10.
    Can't help you with the aluminum tigging, I only do mild and stainless, have a dc machine. I got dizzy just looking at all the variables you can punch in. I'd have to spend so much time reading I wouldn't be able to get my hands dirty.

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    • #3
      Salt runner:
      Congrats on the machine, your going to love it when you get past the learning curve. I am not past it yet but I am getting better. First try doing dry runs{ no machine power no foot pedal} just get used to holding the torch and moving it along the work piece. I see a hip hop in your movement hence the wiggle in the weld. Try this practice tip ANDY showed me, 1] dry runs no power just hand motion, 2] Do the same hand motion with a pull back motion and using a filler rod fake the dab and move just to get used to using both hands together, 3] same action as 2 but add the foot pedal atvarious pedal positions, 4]after you get used to doing the practice steps turn on the machine and set up like you have it but boost the flow to about 25cfh and the pedal isn't an on/off it is like a throttle feather it up and down to control the pool.

      This is a waltz not disco, slow and steady. Patience and lots of practice, BTW steel is easier to start on than Aluminum {pool control is harder on Al}, once you get the eye and hand/foot coordination Aluminum is much easier, I am no there yet but I am close. I shake too much to ever do this for a living, but I have a blast evenings and weekends!!!!


      Hope this helps you, as ANDY and HAWK helped me so much!

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      • #4
        Thanks for the advice.

        I seem to get a little better with each practice session, but I just want to make sure what I think is progess actually is progress. I don't want to just make a pretty weld I want to make a good weld. What kind of penetration am I looking for on the back side of the weld?

        Any more thoughts on the duty cycle of the machine on 230v?

        -Michael

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        • #5
          saltrunner:
          The duty cycle will be 60% at 150 amps and your below that number so I would not worry to much about it, till you start running 7-8 minutes of straight arc on. It has overload protection and you'll know when it is time to stop, the duty cycle of the torch would be my worry {if you have a light amperage torch then the time will be less at that amperage}!

          As for penetration you should see fusion at the root of the weld but not big blisters of overpenetration. If the fusion isn't visible try slowing the travel speed a bit, or if you have blisters then speed up. When 100% penetration is the focus then leave a bit of gap in joint, a 1/32"-1/16" should do for 1/8" material.

          Practice,practice,practice!

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