fixturing techniques?

[JHB]

Are there any pointers that any of you can give me about fixturing? For example, I'd like to do some limited production of similar types of furniture. If I wanted to set up a fixture to help clamp table legs in place and make sure they were square with everything, how would be the best way to start? Does anyone know of any books on the subject? I realize this could be a very broad subject, but maybe there are some basics that you guys can suggest to get me started in the right direction.
Joe

[SoCalTA]

Just a quick thought here but I might try setting up a jig. Use levels and tack weld until you are true. You can get some angle magnets to help. Maybe go to the Enco website or other sites and buy some good ones. I think once you get the jig set up the rest should fall into place.

[wrench3047]

When I need to tack on stuff 90 degrees I like to use magnets. They sell them just about everywhere they sell welding stuff. Ebay has a pile of them, just make sure with a level. If it's going to be a repeatable task (several tables) I would make a jig.

[aametalmaster]

I am the fixture king. I spend more time making fixtures than welding the part. I custom make wrought iron and ceiling mounted train bridges. The parts have to fit together perfect or it won't work. I start out with a flat piece of steel 1/4" thick or better. Put a frame under it to keep it flat. Then i weld stops, brackets, nuts, what ever you can do to keep the parts aligned. I have a dedicated fixture for each part. Sure its expensive, but when you need a part just grab it off the shelf. My fixture for my train bridges are aluminum layed over steel to keep the splatter off. Then after each part is made i wipe it off then i spray everything down with a waterbase no splatter spray. I use Crown Alloy #69. My fixture for my train curves is 1 1/2" thick and ground on the top. I have 1/2" nuts tacked on the top to bolt down the parts. I have 3x3 angles on the ends with alignment holes to line up before welding, after welding everythings perfect. I let it cool for a few minutes before removing it. I buy the cheap 5 dollar vise grips at the farm store to weld on, some fixtures take 20 grips. On another fixture i use some spring loaded clamps i made i call them my little people. They were cheap to make just a little time. Email me offline for more pics... Bob [email protected]

[rb455ho]

Aametalmaster, those tracks are beautiful. Your attention to detail is quite evident in your reply. Thanks for all the useful information.

[aametalmaster]

Thanks, You will have to see my drilling fixtures but thats another post. I have a bunch of those cheap 39 dollar drill presses with a fixture and drill bit in each one. Zero setup time...Bob

[aametalmaster]

Then there's the cutting and drilling fixtures. (Forgive me while i ramble on but you can learn alot from a dummy) I use 1/2" black pipe with a cap screwed on the end for a stop. Then i slide the metal inside the pipe, the pipe hits the side of my 4x6 saw then all the parts are the same. You will have to do a little figuring for each part. The best way is clamp the metal in the saw the right length then measure from the saws edge to the end of the steel. That is how long the pipe needs to be on the inside. Some bridges take a thousand parts. At least 12 different ones at that. They have to be exact. Then theres the drilling fixtures for the parts that aren't setup in the drill press. Get some 5/32" center punches, use them in a punching fixture to mark the holes. Just use a light hit remark them better after they are removed with another center punch hit. Make all your drilling fixtures with 5/32" holes and wolla the holes can't be off...Bob

[rb455ho]

More cool pics would be appreciated.

[Grumpy]

Check out this website for books on your subject: http://machinistinfo.com/jigs1.htm

[aametalmaster]

Ok give me a few days. I have to work thru the New Year...Bob

[JHB]

Thanks very much for the information. The book looks like one of the things I ought to have in my library. Bob, your philosophy about building fixtures for specific projects is what I'm after and I have done a little of it so far. I do ornamental ironwork using traditional blacksmith techniques as well as modern welding. I thought I was the only one to think about buying several of those $39 drill presses.
Joe

[Leons2003]

Simple jig

Once upon a time, when Shep was a pup and Moby **** was a minnow, I worked at a sheetmetal/fab shop. For repetitive drilling, punching or
notching, we created a jig from sheet 14, 16 or 22 ga. matl., spot welded together to form a stair step fixture.
Clamping the jig to the machine and away you go. Since most of us do not have a spot welder, one could punch/drill and plug weld, the thing together.

Good luck and wishing ALL a Happy, Healthy and Prosperous New Year.
L*S

[fatfrank]

See if this helps.


jig

Happy New Years.

[wrench3047]

Somehow I don't think that applies to the subject of welding fixtures and jigs.

[aametalmaster]

Here's a few helpers i use for my cutting and welding. #1 is my bolt cutter, yes thats a sm blk Ford valve cover bolt. I set the length of the bolt to be cut then slide in a bolt and turn the t handle to hold it. Just loosen the t handle to remove cut bolt. The holder is always clamped in the saw. #2 Are my little people, they are spring loaded and slide up a slot in the welding fixture and hold the part. Cheap to make also. #3 & 5 are my cutting gages #5 is in the correct position, it is bolted to my 4x6 saw as a cutting gage. Instant alignment with the stop welded on the bottom #3. Sure beats setting up that sliding stop bar. #4 Is for cutting longer parts, just slide the metal inside the pipe until it hits the cap then slide the whole works to the left until it hits the saw. I use them up to 5 feet long. Hope this helps. I cut thousands of parts at a time, and they are all the same...Bob