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  • rb455ho
    replied
    Hey guys, thanks for all the input. I really appreciate being part of this forum. When the disconnect coupling arrive and I can use my smaller torch I will post some more pics. Believe it or not I have used the 350 amp torch with some 1/16" zir-W to weld .060 and it worked fine except for the bulkiness. I must say it is quite a bit more touchy than the thick stuff.

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  • Blown S-10
    replied
    i pulled 2 pieces of 1/2" 6061 scrap from my pile. they are small. but i will try to weld them, and i think i can, but don't know. will post pics, good or bad. i have layed a bead on a large piece of 3/4" with somewhat easy. so we will see. if it works out, i will try larger pieces. interesting to compare.

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  • aphexafx
    replied
    Right on, man. I really like those welds.

    I started with a 200A 26 torch and when I bought the 17 it made a big difference as far as handling goes because it's so much smaller. Now I rarely use the 26, except when I'm showing the welder to someone because it's big and cool looking.

    Let us know how those coolant line disconnects work out for you because I'm looking into a cooler setup and I've been interested in them.

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  • rb455ho
    replied
    Aphexafx, I have not however I have plugged several holes in the 1/2" with a champher on the plug and the part. Filled the champher and machine it flat again and there was absolutely no porosity. The other thing is all I have hooked up is a 350 amp torch which is somewhat bulky for going around corners. I purchased a smaller Ck 250 amp torch and ordered some quick disconnect couplings from arczone. I am looking forward to the smaller torch as you can almost holid it like a pencil compared to a sledge hammer.

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  • arcdawg
    replied
    now try doing it on 20 gauge

    dawg

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  • rb455ho
    replied
    Thank you all for your input. HAWK, I am experimenting with balance between 5-8. 7 is where you suggested so I will practice some more. Another reason might be is that some are done with 3/32 and others with 1/8 tungsten. I am right handed and I try to set the part on a diagonal and bring the cup towards me, it makes the puddle more visible. I am also extending the electrode more for the T joints and using a smaller cup to get into the joint. This seems like common sense to me but let me know if I am making any errors.

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  • walker
    replied
    The reason I asked about the handedness thing is that the images show up rather large for me. It is like looking at one of those optical illutions, where it you look at it long enough I can't tell if it is concave or convex, or if the weld bead goes from left to right or right to left. You must have the same computer I have at work, as it does the same thing when I try to send images home.

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  • HAWK
    replied
    Rob,

    Great! I noticed a rather large cleaning area in the last couple of images. I wonder what would happen if you increased you EN balance a little bit? Good job.

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  • dyn88
    replied
    you should do some sestructive testing. also remember as a general rule each weld leg length should be close to the material thickness(or so Ive been taught)

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  • aphexafx
    replied
    rb455ho, nice! Have you cross cut any of those to see how things are going internally?

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  • rb455ho
    replied
    Blown S-10, yes that is some 1/2" and some 3/8. I do not have a dyn I have a syn 350 so the amperage max is set on the panel and the foot pedal determines the actual amperage. I usually set the panel to 350 so variable from 0-350 via foot pedal.

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  • Blown S-10
    replied
    is that 1/2" ? what amps is that ?

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  • rb455ho
    replied
    I am right handed. I do hold the torch in my right hand and filler in left.

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  • walker
    replied
    Just curious, are you left handed?

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    Just hitting the field to get auto reply.

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