Dynasty 200DX

[fun4now]

Hawk

thank's for the invite. i was just funnin ya about the pic. i did go looking for it but now there are 2 tung. grinder posts and 1 is like 4 pages so i never found it.
too easily side traced i gess

that is a sweet looking set of freez puddles. looks like there will be lots to play with when my dyn. gets here. i like that you can verry the apearence so much cuz i realy like the look of a nice bead and cant wait to start playing

[HAWK]

HAWK, I see according to your post your filler rod is 1/4 the size as compared to the material being welded thickness. 3/8" material, 3/32" filler rod. I tried a fillet weld and was able to emulate your bead easier than when I tried a T- joint weld. I believe I am using too big of filler rod.

Rob,

I have always had better luck with the 1/16" and the 3/32" fillers. I will use 1/8" on 1/4" AL and thicker, but was out at the time.

[HAWK]

did ya forget the pic or do we gota come to your place to see them

James,

You are welcome to visit my shop. However, I did not post the pic since it was in the "TUNGSTEN GRINDER" post, but I can... I am sorry.

By the way, this weld is not mine. A good friend of mine was passing through town. We have similar welding styles though I must admit he is a better welder than I am. I have only met a couple of guys on par with him. He spent a few minutes playing with my machine and testing filler.

I had been having problems with the color match. The color with the 4043 is still off, but not as bad as the 5356. It seems like the 4043 had a better color match and a smoother flow on this 6061 alloy. I usually use the 5356, but for some reason it did not do well with this specific alloy.

[rb455ho]

filer rod

HAWK, I see according to your post your filler rod is 1/4 the size as compared to the material being welded thickness. 3/8" material, 3/32" filler rod. I tried a fillet weld and was able to emulate your bead easier than when I tried a T- joint weld. I believe I am using too big of filler rod.

[rb455ho]

tig beads

HAWK, I am predominently doing t-joints and try as I may my freezeline spacing is smaller. I will try a wetter puddle and some smaller filler rod. I am not unhappy with my current results at all I just like learning from the pros as I am not one.

[fun4now]

Hawk

did ya forget the pic or do we gota come to your place to see them

[HAWK]

Rob,

Just to let you know the bead in the "tungsten grinder" post was welded with a Dynasty 300DX inverter power source. You may not believe this, but I'll post it anyway. This will surely to draw some disbelief from those who have not used a Dynasty 300DX.

The weld in the picture is a fillet on 3/8" x 6" x 2" coupons of 6061 T651.
It was made with 100% argon and 185 amps to create a soaking wet puddle and 150 amps to run the bead with an EN balance of 72% and an arc frequency of 110HZ. The filler was 3/32" 4043.

The freeze line spacing is a happy medium of good penetration and the "wider" look that some people prefer. If you move the torch less distance and add filler more often, then the freeze lines will be closer together. If you put the filler in the arc and run with it, the bead will be nearly one solid run with very tiny ripples all the through from start to finish.

Like Andy and Kevin said it is all in technique. Your Syncro 350 will make the same beads as in the pictures. It is torch and filler manipulation.

[fun4now]

great looking beads

looks great, makes want mine all the more.

in the last 6-8 monthe that i have been saving for the Dyn.200DX the more i see and hear about it just makes me that much more convinced that i have made the right choice to save and get the dyn.

even if the wait is killing me

[KB Fabrications]

rb455ho,
The weld bead configuration has nothing to do with the type machine but how the operator manipulates or adds filler while moving the torch. I can get the same bead look and spacing with any type unit. It really depends on what you like or how you were tought.

Couldnt have said it better. I prefer an aluminum bead like the ones in the pictures I posted. Some like the puddle spacing closer, some like the the puddles farther apart. I would suggest you play with different spacing and see what you like better. I actually have customers that want it to look different ways on different things so I gotta be flexible.

[KB Fabrications]

Kevin,

That looks good. How much preheat?

Thanks HAWK. I wish I could tell you how much preheat.. I'm not real scientific about it. For this I used a small toaster oven that we have in the shop. Set it to bake ate 350 deg and let it go for about 6 minutes. It's so old that I would be hard pressed to trust the setting.

As far as the convexity, it seemed to do well. Looking across the bead on that test piece, and the subsequent job, I'd be hard pressed feel the need for that mix. I'd have to go buy a bottle of it anyway. It would be fun to play with though

[ASKANDY]

rb455ho,
The weld bead configuration has nothing to do with the type machine but how the operator manipulates or adds filler while moving the torch. I can get the same bead look and spacing with any type unit. It really depends on what you like or how you were tought.

Have a good holiday!

Andy

[Bendaman]

KB,
Thanks for posting the pictures,nice work!
Happy Holidays

[rb455ho]

Kb

Kb, those welds look great to me. I have one question. It seems that with the inverter machines the distance between adjacent weld pools is greater than with Xfmr/rectifier machines. Am I imagining things or what. The welds HAWK posted were spreadout even more. Thanks for your input

P.S. I love my syn 350 for the 1/2" al. it does a great job but the welds are closer together. I posted something awhile ago on travel speed and did not get much response.

[HAWK]

Kevin,

That looks good. How much preheat? I have tried the same thing and found a 75He/25Ar blend reduces the convexity of the bead with the D200DX on .250" Al.

[KB Fabrications]

KB,
would you be willing to post a picture of that? If its not too much
trouble, thanks in advance. I was wondering the same thing about
the Dynasty 200DX.

Here they are. I hope they show up ok. As I said before,the settings were 200 amps, 75 balance, and 180 hz using 100% argon. I used 3/32" 1.5% lanthanated with a small (.020 ish ) flat on the tip. I did not use pulse. This was a test piece I welded before committing to the actual job. The third picture looks like there is a bit of porosity but it must just be the angle and the light. Enjoy and thanks for looking.