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Sorry I missed this post, wasn't ignoring the question. Most of the designs I get to building deal with metal and light. It's just a hobby and a way for me to excuse myself for spending as much as I did on my equipment. And a good way to hone my skills. I usually design my pieces in a commercial 3D rendering system, usually Lightwave 3D by NewTek, so I can see how the light and surface finishes will interact, and then I build them. Here's one I was working on today - this is just a rendering - and I'm hoping to build it in the next couple of weeks. It’s a lamp. Thanks for asking!
aphexafx, very nice, I would love to see the finished project, I am in the process of trying to start a business doing like things, more funky/rustic....as a former pro photographer, I have a great intrest in lighting. Again, keep me informed or drop an email, best to you, Paul Brown
I must agree with paulbrown this is very nice work. I do photography as a serious hobby and have all but abandoned film in favor of HQ digital work. I too have a real interest in lighting and spend many hours with Adobe Photoshop playing with light and shadows. Please do post your finished product!
i like the 3d program too . can you get that at any comp. store or did you have to get it off the net.
Lightwave 3D by NewTek
is that the hole ball of wax od do you use several programs.?
thanks for the help
......or..........
hope i helped
sigpic feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat.[email protected] summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
JAMES
I too use my welding equipment mostly for art. In the past, I have spent a lot of time building "Chopper" Bicycles. Basically, I buy a cheap bike with 20" wheels and an aditional 24" wheel with a giant tire (for the back). I cut it apart so that I have a bottom bracket with cranks, a headtube with headset and fork and stem, and a set of drop-outs. Then I build a frame and extend the forks. Usually, they take 12-15 hours from start to finish.
This semester (at school), I am taking a glass (blowing) art class, and the assignment is to build something "structural". Basically, something that goes in your home. I was thinking of building some lamps incorperating a bunch of metal.
It's nice to see others on this forum using metal for artistic purposes.
-SPiNNeR-
Hobart 135 Oxy-Acet w/ Victor torch Dynasty 200 DX
The PII is $700 and the PIII is $1200. As far as choosing a TG, it really depends on what your needs are. I needed something to grind 1/16", 3/32", and 1/8". I also needed it to grind for two people and for a good portion of the day.
There are other, less expensive alternatives and if I had more info about your needs I could probably steer you in the right direction. I did a lot of research before I bought the one for my shop and I feel that hands down Diamond Ground offers the best grinder out there. Keep in mind that a dedicated grinder like either one of the DG's WILL save you big time when you factor in individual tungsten life. I ground for years with a bench grinder and a cordless drill and I would be hard pressed to match what my PIII can do in terms of speed, efficiency, and prolonging the life of each tungsten that I sharpen.
Some of these guys are really beatn up on your grinder tell me if they are wrong. I would like to get a grinder. What if you have a dog knot on your tungsten from dipping it into the puddle, will it fit into the machine. some times they wont even come out of the torch.
Once you remove it for the torch just run it through the corner cut out in the grinder. This cut out is plenty big and made for notching. It will easily knock off a bad end like you are describing. I use the P II. It is one version smaller than Kevin's P III.
Here is the information for Diamond Ground if you do not already have it:
Jim Elizarraz
Diamond Ground Products, Inc.
805-498-3837 Ext. # 226
Fax: 805-498-9347
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