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Need saw help - Im an idiot dont laugh lol.

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  • BCarlucci
    replied
    Hey guys, i guess i'm here to throw my 2 cents,

    I use the Makita LC1230, 12" metal cutting saw, the base is not cheap it's sturdy, plus i just bought one for my father too and it comes with 2 blades instead of 1. Also abrasive saws are alright if you don't mind the sparks and the smell and the smoke. Bandsaws are great, and i highly recommend them but if you spend the money make sure you get a decent one, i know there's a few out there that aren't to great. So my 2 cents.


    BC

    Dynasty 200dx w/coolmate 3
    MM210 w/3035 spoolgun
    Cutmaster 101 plasma
    Miller Big Window elite

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  • bigwelder
    replied
    Originally posted by d-dawgg
    1. can you use a mitre saw for metal?
    2. what is a chop saw?
    3. how do you cut angles on a band saw?

    #1 YES IF U HAVE A CHOP SAW
    #2 IT IS A SAW WITH AN ABRASIVE CUTTING WHEEL

    WE HAVE 2 CHOP SAWS AT THE SHOP MADE BY RIGID AND THEY HAVE ANGLE ADJUSTMENTS SIMILIAR TO A MITER SAW

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  • wendell
    replied
    Karish,
    This is true, I'd love to throw the chop out the window now! I'd be intersted in the clamp assembly for some other appications. No sweat.

    That bandsaw came with a fwe hunded lbs. of welding rod and a mint Browne and Sharp machinist square (think thats what it's called, 12 ruler w/ three attachments).

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  • karish
    replied
    Wendall,

    I will try to arrange something. I do not own a 1's and 0's camera at the moment.

    The Johnson bandsaw is quite a big green lump to go with your big blue lump. I would think your interest in a small chop saw would be dramatically diminished with the accquitison of that.

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  • wendell
    replied
    Karish,
    Any chance we could see a pic of the base you machined for your saw. Sounds very interesting.
    Thanks

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  • lramberson
    Guest replied
    That's a no no. You are not being safe. Please use the proper tools for the job, fingers are tough to come by & I have seen a abrasave blade self destruct due to over rev. It was not a pretty site and the nuckle head almost lost an eye even with safty glasses. Two stitches in the cheek & a nice shiner for something that could have been avoided.
    Here is the best 200 bucks I ever spent. See Attached photos..
    Yes I made the base and put a bimetal blade on her, but it was a great project & I still have not hooked up the cooling system some day...
    Attached Files

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  • Terence638
    replied
    Im not sure but I think I check the rpm on the disk i believe i did get a high rpm disc....but maybe not.
    Terence

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  • fun4now
    replied
    Terence638

    sounds like you put an abrasive blade on a wood saw.

    you are looking for trubble, the wood saw's spin about 4X faster than an abrasive blade is rated for. if that blade fly's apart at 3000+ rpm's it is going to be uuuugleee

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  • Bulldog
    replied
    Terence,
    Your not using an abrasive wheel on a wood chop saw are you???

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  • Terence638
    replied
    I have found that on the dewalt saw when the material you are cutting gets to hot it will melt the plastic insert on the table. So for this reason i do not like it, but i did put a abrasive blade on this when i cut. I think i will try to cut the materila (aluminum pipe) with a carbide tip blade and see if it heats up too much.
    Terence

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  • fun4now
    replied
    Gaslight

    you should be able to get a square cut on the band saw have you tryed titening up the blade more to keep it from reflecting. it seems that i read that it needs to be tighter than 1 would expect to cut steel.
    umm i could be rong but you might give it a try.

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  • Gaslight
    replied
    I have a bandsaw for cutting metal. What I like about it is that it doesn't create any sparks, even dry cutting with a bimetal blade, and it cuts curved pieces, and rips the length of stuff. An abrasive cut-off saw would probably start a fire in my shop. The only real downside to the bandsaw is that mine does not make perfectly square cuts. Since I am generaly doing something else to the cut after roughing it on saw, I don't care. But if I was making trailers and needed clean miters, I would chose something other than BS. The trade-off is I can't rough a knife, or rip tubing on the cut-off.

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  • Grumpy
    replied
    I guess after reading all the posts it should be quite evident that you must use the proper tool for the process. Your inviting injury otherwise. If tools were designed as multi purpose then you could change things such as rotational speed. They sure didn't put kick-back devices on table saws for the heck of it. Just my 2 cents. Just be careful once you lose an eye or finger or hand you'll never be the same.

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  • fun4now
    replied
    pic werth a 1000 words

    the chop saw looks like a miter saw but the work is put at an angle insted of the saw moving to the side to make the cut.
    in pic 2 you can see the miter gage for the chop saw, you set the fence to the angle then clamp down and the saw just comes strait down over the work. in pic 4 you will see the miter saw has a verry acurate swivel gage to alow you to move the blade to the angle of the cut wil the work stays strait against the fence at all times and the saw moves. as said earlyer the metal cutting blade spins a lot slower than the wood cutting blade.
    i got my chop saw at big lots on a father's day sail for $ 49.99 it has a 15A motor and came with an extra set of brushes. it has worked realy well for me for almost a year without any problems. on my budget that is a good thing

    the last pic is of my assembly line just because i thought it looked cool and had my camera out in the shop so you get to se it LOL
    Attached Files

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  • karish
    replied
    d-dawgg,

    I have to disagree with you. You are not an idiot. If you were, you wouldn't ask questions, but rather charge ahead and make a mess of things and probably hurt yourself or others. You may be temporarliy ignorant of metal cutting saws, but that is 100% curable and you're well on your way.

    There have been some recent threads on this board from folks discussing the virtures of bandsaws and chop saws. They are quite enlightening. I have a DeWalt dry-cut chop saw. Looks very much like a wood cutting saw. However, it roatates the 14" (35.6 cm) diameter, carbide toothed blade at 1,300 rpm. A wood cutting saw typically works at 3,900 rpm.

    When I purchased my saw, it was much less expensive than a decent low-end bandsaw. From reading the referenced threads, that seems to have changed. A bandsaw would be very nice to have, but my limited garage space still drives me to the chop saw.

    The vises built into these saws are a big concern. Most of the units I've seen on chop saws are poor, including the DeWalt I bought. I am lucky enough to have a machinist friend who built me a completly new base plate that allows the use of metal working clamps and fixtures like you might see used on a mill. Much nicer.

    Good luck in your research.

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