Is there a reason you can use .035 flux-cored, but not .035 solid-cored wire on the MM135?
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millermania,
The Millermatic 135 is able to weld with .035 solid wire but the weld performance is better with .030 solid wire and they both provide the same material thickness capabilities. Using .035 flux cored wire requires an amperage similar to that of .030 solid wire so it also performs very well with the Millermatic 135.
KevinKevin Schuh
Service Technician
Miller Electric Mfg. Co.
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The reason that you can burn a larger diameter fluxcored wire than solid, is that the f/c wire is tubular. the cross section of the wire shows that voltage required to burn the outer sheath of the f/c wire is much less than the solid wire, due to less metal being melted.
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Thanks for the replies. My next question for you MIG guys is I've been trying to do some lap welds with 1/8" plate to 1/8" plate (all mild steel) on the MM135. The quality of the welds has been hit or miss. Sometimes the weld holds up to the hammer test and sometimes I just get cold lapping. My technique is consistent on each try: I have the gun aimed straight at the bottom piece, initiate the puddle and then push it into the top piece. I use a push angle of about 15 degrees. I get good penetration into the top piece, but sometimes it cold laps the bottom piece. I'm using .030 solid wire, a voltage setting of 10 (max), and somewhere around 50 for wire feed speed. Any suggestions?
Thanks again.
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Originally posted by Kevinmillermania,
The Millermatic 135 is able to weld with .035 solid wire but the weld performance is better with .030 solid wire and they both provide the same material thickness capabilities.
Kevin
Am I right?
KarlAt a certain point in every project, it comes time to shoot the engineers and build the d*** thing.
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Originally posted by millermaniaThanks for the replies. My next question for you MIG guys is I've been trying to do some lap welds with 1/8" plate to 1/8" plate (all mild steel) on the MM135. The quality of the welds has been hit or miss. Sometimes the weld holds up to the hammer test and sometimes I just get cold lapping. My technique is consistent on each try: I have the gun aimed straight at the bottom piece, initiate the puddle and then push it into the top piece. I use a push angle of about 15 degrees. I get good penetration into the top piece, but sometimes it cold laps the bottom piece. I'm using .030 solid wire, a voltage setting of 10 (max), and somewhere around 50 for wire feed speed. Any suggestions?
Thanks again.
You may want to aim the gun at the joint center or the "v". Make sure you maintain the stickout legnth. It should be about 1/4 to 1/2 inch for short circuiting mild steel. Joint design and different materials may indicate a longer stickout. If it is too long, it can result in too much weld metal being fed due to the welder increasing the WFS. I'm not sure if the MM 135 will do this or nor, but others will. Weld metal in excess of the voltage output will result in incomplete fusion at the toes and lack of penetration. The gun angle should be about ten degrees also.
Keep on practicing. If you can, post some pics of the beads. Pics can help us diagnose some of the problems. Besides that, we like pics!Don
'06 Trailblazer 302
'06 12RC feeder
Super S-32P feeder
HH210 & DP3035 spool gun
Esab Multimaster 260
Esab Heliarc 252 AC/DC
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Originally posted by kdahmGreat. Someone gave me a 2lb roll of .035 solid that I need to figger out how to use. I will be welding 3/8" mild plate (multipass), so I think I should slow the wire speed down a hair vs. the .030 and set the voltage to 10. MM135, 75/25 argon.
Am I right?
Karl
The MM 135 is a good light metal MIG, but it doesn't have the juevos to do "critical" welds in 3/8. If your weld is a critical one, you might consider another welder or have it done.....just a thought.Don
'06 Trailblazer 302
'06 12RC feeder
Super S-32P feeder
HH210 & DP3035 spool gun
Esab Multimaster 260
Esab Heliarc 252 AC/DC
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