MM210 has finally arrived!

[bob_s2]

Honey, that's the transfer case off my truck. It's been there FOREVER.

[cope]

Bob-OK then what are you going to say when she spots the MM130 sitting in the corner loaded with .023 wire ready for the thin stuff?

Goerge,

The same thing Georgie Porgie said when he stuck in his thumb and pulled out a plum: "how in the **** did this get in here".

Actually it was Little Jack Horner.

[Sundown]

<snip> Like that mm210 machine. "No honey, I just cleaned up the old machine and waxed it. that's not new, you're just seeing it CLEAN for the first time. What? It looks bigger to you? I just built a new cart for it, is all..."
Right now it's too freaking cold out there to do anything.
--Bob

Bob-OK then what are you going to say when she spots the MM130 sitting in the corner loaded with .023 wire ready for the thin stuff?

[Teeps]

"No honey, I just cleaned up the old machine and waxed it. that's not new, you're just seeing it CLEAN for the first time. What? It looks bigger to you? I just built a new cart for it, is all..."
Right now it's too freaking cold out there to do anything.
--Bob

Hahahaha, My wife is a mechanical engineer so the above tactic just get's me in deeper, I have to bribe her with custom made furniture, and other projects on the honey-do lists :-)

[bob_s2]

Thanks Dan for the post. I agree, with the little welder I have it's maxed out. It's further choked by the horrible and old house/garage wiring. I get good results out of multi-passes, but it's a stretch to get full penetration on 1/8 right now, unless I gap it a significant amount.
I'm currently(hah!) putting in a sub-panel in the garage, and running a 50 amp 220 volt to it via #6 wire. At least that's the plan right now, I've got the $29 Seimans 24 opening sub-panel mounted, the 1 inch thn conduit put in from the main panel through the breezeway and into the garage. I just need 1 last length to get to the panel, and then I can buy and run the wire. I'm excited to see what the little 135 can do with full juice going to it. The wiring also gives me the ability to both re-wire the garage, and run any 220 volt machine that happens to roll into the garage under the radar. Like that mm210 machine. "No honey, I just cleaned up the old machine and waxed it. that's not new, you're just seeing it CLEAN for the first time. What? It looks bigger to you? I just built a new cart for it, is all..."
Right now it's too freaking cold out there to do anything.
--Bob

[Danny]

Hi Dan,
Wow, great weld again! Quick question, the fabrication guy who showed me how to weld always recommended the triangle approach. You seem to use the loop approach a lot. Does the loop approach give you enough time in the root? When would you use the loop vs the triangle? Do you have an example of the triangle weave?
Thanks for any help you can provide!
--Bob

Bob, I really only use the loop approach for non- critical welds in short circuit transfer mode on 1/4" steel. For 3/16" and thinner I either just travel straight, or add a little side to side motion into my travel . A triangle weave is one of the approachs that i use for welding vertical-up. I ve never tried the triangle weave in any other position. The triangle weave oscillation is pretty time consuming to perform, so it seems like you would have to run somewhat colder machines setting then required for just traveling straight or even using the elliptical oscillation that I use. As far as burning into the root goes with my elliptical approach, if you look at the picture I posted you will notice that the upward stroke has the arc directed just in front of were you last placed weld metal.


Bob one thing to consider here, is the units that i run compared to you. Which are the following: MM 251, MM 250, MM 210, MM 185, CK Systematics 175, and a MM 175. All of these are 230 V unit, where as your MM 130 is a 120 volt unit. So, the triangle weave that you use may be a beneficial oscillation for you to use to give you the ability to possibly weld up to 3/16" (non-critical) with a solid wire on your unit.

[Sundown]

Hi Dan,
Wow, great weld again! Quick question, the fabrication guy who showed me how to weld always recommended the triangle approach. You seem to use the loop approach a lot. Does the loop approach give you enough time in the root? When would you use the loop vs the triangle? Do you have an example of the triangle weave?
Thanks for any help you can provide!
--Bob

Bob,

I think that RockyD has some examples of the triangle weave if you want to do a search under his handle

[bob_s2]

Hi Dan,
Wow, great weld again! Quick question, the fabrication guy who showed me how to weld always recommended the triangle approach. You seem to use the loop approach a lot. Does the loop approach give you enough time in the root? When would you use the loop vs the triangle? Do you have an example of the triangle weave?
Thanks for any help you can provide!
--Bob

[Teeps]

BTW Nice welds for your first time on the new machine!!!
I'm drooling over that capability on 1/4" plate.

I can't wait to try tig as well, so far this is the only thing I don't like about MIG, Having to stick wire into the equation, when things are still too cold.
Of course I'm amperage challenged until I pick up my mm251

[Danny]

All,
Thanks for the feedback. Dan, the pics I posted were done using the stitch method....does your description still apply or is it for continuous trigger on operation? The reason I used the stich method was becasue I wanted to avoid having the 1/4" base plate from warping. I am still trying to figure how to keep the material from disfiguring while determining which technique to use....I know practice is key here....

Thanks

Chris,

Triggering the gun on and off to complete a weld is an acceptable approach for thin ga. sheet metal. However, it is a very poor approach to take for welding thicker material. Triggering the gun on this thicker material is going to result in a weld bead that contains quite a bit of lack of fusion along the length of the weld. You are going to produce sounder welds by using a continiously on trigger approach, so I suggest you discontinue this triggering technique on anything thicker then light ga. sheet.

[ChrisV]

All,
Thanks for the feedback. Dan, the pics I posted were done using the stitch method....does your description still apply or is it for continuous trigger on operation? The reason I used the stich method was becasue I wanted to avoid having the 1/4" base plate from warping. I am still trying to figure how to keep the material from disfiguring while determining which technique to use....I know practice is key here....

Thanks

[Sundown]

Chris, I think you will like the 210 more every time you use it. I'd be using mine now execpt it's been 35 in the grarage for the past week.

[DDA52]

I don't think Dan makes those welds.....I think he buys them!!! Once I find the store,.........

Dan
J/k Nice as always.

Chris
Congrats on the new toy. Keep us posted,

[Danny]

You need to tighten up the distance that you're traveling forward. It looks like you're using to large of a circular oscillation. You want the oscillation to be more like a cursive lower case L then a circle. If both of these materials are 1/4" thick , voltage tap #3 and a wire speed setting between 50 -52 will do the trick. Im attaching a sample picture . The red arrow indicates were you want to direct the arc on the upward travel of the motion.

[Paul Seaman]

Fantastic and keep at it, 2 years on mine and love it.