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  • MM210 has finally arrived!

    Hi All,
    Well in previous posts I mentioned I was waiting on a MM210 to arrive after I purchased it at SEMA. Well after some delivery confusion was cleared up the crate arrived today. I have seen the machine many times before but it looks so much better in my shop . I purchased a 275CF bottle of C25 and a spool of ER70s-6 .030 as suggested by past post replies. Covers are on there way...need protection from the saw dust. I should have it up and running by the weekend!

    Next will be a plasma cutter (in a few months hopefully).....

    Chris
    Chris
    87' Mustang GT - Blown 306 Road Racer
    Millermatic 210
    Spectrum 375
    [email protected]
    www.ckvalentidesigns.com

  • #2
    Congrats and keep us in the loop on your progress.

    Comment


    • #3
      Yeah, I remember the day I bought mine. The wife gets a phone call "Babe I'm at the weld shop" She knows she's in trouble now. She's gotten a similar call when I was at the bike shop. Good luck with your new machine. It makes a welcome addition to any shop.
      Wheat Stalker

      Millermatic 210
      Dynasty 200DX
      Fisher CZ-5...CZ-3D..
      Trek 5500
      1966 Amphicar

      Comment


      • #4
        Great Machine!

        Hi All,
        Well I spent a good part of the weekend welding and what a great investment (MM210) . I was practicing on a metal bench for my cutoff saw and figured out I need a plasma cutter now... Anyway I was getting used to the machine..have been playing with the settings around the values given under the hood. I also found the wire was occasionally slipping so I dialed in more tension (almost 2 w/ .030). Attached are 2 pics for a T-joint using 1/4" plate and 3" square tubing...feedback would be great.... Have plenty of work in the que for refinement.

        Chris
        Chris
        87' Mustang GT - Blown 306 Road Racer
        Millermatic 210
        Spectrum 375
        [email protected]
        www.ckvalentidesigns.com

        Comment


        • #5
          Fantastic and keep at it, 2 years on mine and love it.

          Comment


          • #6
            You need to tighten up the distance that you're traveling forward. It looks like you're using to large of a circular oscillation. You want the oscillation to be more like a cursive lower case L then a circle. If both of these materials are 1/4" thick , voltage tap #3 and a wire speed setting between 50 -52 will do the trick. Im attaching a sample picture . The red arrow indicates were you want to direct the arc on the upward travel of the motion.

            Comment


            • #7
              I don't think Dan makes those welds.....I think he buys them!!! Once I find the store,.........

              Dan
              J/k Nice as always.

              Chris
              Congrats on the new toy. Keep us posted,
              Don


              '06 Trailblazer 302
              '06 12RC feeder
              Super S-32P feeder

              HH210 & DP3035 spool gun
              Esab Multimaster 260
              Esab Heliarc 252 AC/DC

              Comment


              • #8
                Chris, I think you will like the 210 more every time you use it. I'd be using mine now execpt it's been 35 in the grarage for the past week.
                Regards, George

                Hobart Handler 210 w/DP3035 - Great 240V small Mig
                Hobart Handler 140 - Great 120V Mig
                Hobart Handler EZ125 - IMO the best 120V Flux Core only machine

                Miller Dynasty 200DX with cooler of my design, works for me
                Miller Spectrum 375 - Nice Cutter

                Comment


                • #9
                  All,
                  Thanks for the feedback. Dan, the pics I posted were done using the stitch method....does your description still apply or is it for continuous trigger on operation? The reason I used the stich method was becasue I wanted to avoid having the 1/4" base plate from warping. I am still trying to figure how to keep the material from disfiguring while determining which technique to use....I know practice is key here....

                  Thanks
                  Chris
                  87' Mustang GT - Blown 306 Road Racer
                  Millermatic 210
                  Spectrum 375
                  [email protected]
                  www.ckvalentidesigns.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by ChrisV
                    All,
                    Thanks for the feedback. Dan, the pics I posted were done using the stitch method....does your description still apply or is it for continuous trigger on operation? The reason I used the stich method was becasue I wanted to avoid having the 1/4" base plate from warping. I am still trying to figure how to keep the material from disfiguring while determining which technique to use....I know practice is key here....

                    Thanks


                    Chris,

                    Triggering the gun on and off to complete a weld is an acceptable approach for thin ga. sheet metal. However, it is a very poor approach to take for welding thicker material. Triggering the gun on this thicker material is going to result in a weld bead that contains quite a bit of lack of fusion along the length of the weld. You are going to produce sounder welds by using a continiously on trigger approach, so I suggest you discontinue this triggering technique on anything thicker then light ga. sheet.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      BTW Nice welds for your first time on the new machine!!!
                      I'm drooling over that capability on 1/4" plate.

                      I can't wait to try tig as well, so far this is the only thing I don't like about MIG, Having to stick wire into the equation, when things are still too cold.
                      Of course I'm amperage challenged until I pick up my mm251

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hi Dan,
                        Wow, great weld again! Quick question, the fabrication guy who showed me how to weld always recommended the triangle approach. You seem to use the loop approach a lot. Does the loop approach give you enough time in the root? When would you use the loop vs the triangle? Do you have an example of the triangle weave?
                        Thanks for any help you can provide!
                        --Bob
                        miller 210, w/spoolgn,.030 solid-core with 120cf C25 gas. Grinders, hf bender. speedgls 9002x helmet.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by bob_s2
                          Hi Dan,
                          Wow, great weld again! Quick question, the fabrication guy who showed me how to weld always recommended the triangle approach. You seem to use the loop approach a lot. Does the loop approach give you enough time in the root? When would you use the loop vs the triangle? Do you have an example of the triangle weave?
                          Thanks for any help you can provide!
                          --Bob
                          Bob,

                          I think that RockyD has some examples of the triangle weave if you want to do a search under his handle
                          Regards, George

                          Hobart Handler 210 w/DP3035 - Great 240V small Mig
                          Hobart Handler 140 - Great 120V Mig
                          Hobart Handler EZ125 - IMO the best 120V Flux Core only machine

                          Miller Dynasty 200DX with cooler of my design, works for me
                          Miller Spectrum 375 - Nice Cutter

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by bob_s2
                            Hi Dan,
                            Wow, great weld again! Quick question, the fabrication guy who showed me how to weld always recommended the triangle approach. You seem to use the loop approach a lot. Does the loop approach give you enough time in the root? When would you use the loop vs the triangle? Do you have an example of the triangle weave?
                            Thanks for any help you can provide!
                            --Bob

                            Bob, I really only use the loop approach for non- critical welds in short circuit transfer mode on 1/4" steel. For 3/16" and thinner I either just travel straight, or add a little side to side motion into my travel . A triangle weave is one of the approachs that i use for welding vertical-up. I ve never tried the triangle weave in any other position. The triangle weave oscillation is pretty time consuming to perform, so it seems like you would have to run somewhat colder machines setting then required for just traveling straight or even using the elliptical oscillation that I use. As far as burning into the root goes with my elliptical approach, if you look at the picture I posted you will notice that the upward stroke has the arc directed just in front of were you last placed weld metal.


                            Bob one thing to consider here, is the units that i run compared to you. Which are the following: MM 251, MM 250, MM 210, MM 185, CK Systematics 175, and a MM 175. All of these are 230 V unit, where as your MM 130 is a 120 volt unit. So, the triangle weave that you use may be a beneficial oscillation for you to use to give you the ability to possibly weld up to 3/16" (non-critical) with a solid wire on your unit.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thanks Dan for the post. I agree, with the little welder I have it's maxed out. It's further choked by the horrible and old house/garage wiring. I get good results out of multi-passes, but it's a stretch to get full penetration on 1/8 right now, unless I gap it a significant amount.
                              I'm currently(hah!) putting in a sub-panel in the garage, and running a 50 amp 220 volt to it via #6 wire. At least that's the plan right now, I've got the $29 Seimans 24 opening sub-panel mounted, the 1 inch thn conduit put in from the main panel through the breezeway and into the garage. I just need 1 last length to get to the panel, and then I can buy and run the wire. I'm excited to see what the little 135 can do with full juice going to it. The wiring also gives me the ability to both re-wire the garage, and run any 220 volt machine that happens to roll into the garage under the radar. Like that mm210 machine. "No honey, I just cleaned up the old machine and waxed it. that's not new, you're just seeing it CLEAN for the first time. What? It looks bigger to you? I just built a new cart for it, is all..."
                              Right now it's too freaking cold out there to do anything.
                              --Bob
                              miller 210, w/spoolgn,.030 solid-core with 120cf C25 gas. Grinders, hf bender. speedgls 9002x helmet.

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