Remotes, why so pricey?

[aphexafx]

I'm not wanting to complain, but I guess I'm going to have to in order to ask the question...

Why are the remote amperage controls for TIG machines so bloody exspansive!? $200+ for a metal box with a simple lever and, look out, a ~potentiometer~... what gives?

Same goes for the hand controls, which I use and which are even simpler. Basically just a pot in a little molded case to fit around a torch...but for $150+! Am I missing something?

I want to get a foot controller, and I'm going to, but if anyone has some insight as to why these things are marketed so high, I'd love to know...

[HAWK]

aphexafx,

These controls are built to withstand rigorous use in less than perfect enviroments, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, year after year. Also these controls are designed to operate with accuracy and precision throughout their life cycle. The multi-conductor stranded wires, precision switches, and other components are not cheap as individual parts. Consider the labor required to put these units together. Add it up and you get a quality product at a price. Actually the price is reasonable considering the time, materials, and engineering that goes into producing such products.

Food for thought: If you have ever purchased the cables and end connectors for a 14 pin connector cable and assembled it yourself, you will gain a great appreciation for the people who build these units and be thrilled to pay the asking price.

[dyn88]

also if im not mistaken ,made in the usa. Yeah if you want cheap buy some chinese crap.

[cruizer]

We build Welder remotes, I also buy surplus from the states, ie, I bought 30 new Hobart tig remotes out of some firm in Florida.
Brought them in reconfigured them and resold them as Millers, Lincolns, and ESABs, even left a few alone and sold them as Hobarts. Still have about 8 left.

So a 50 foot standard remote with "Amphenol" and Clarostat pot to match virturally any welder would run around the $150 Canadian mark, powered, ie with a couple of auxillary plugs ins around the $350 mark ( 100'). A New Hobart foot pedal configured to what ever your machine is around the $150 mark as well.

Our hand held remotes are a little bit different from the factories as they are made for a lifetime application. The boxes are all powder coated alluminum alloy,and they have a magnetic backing so you generally don't have to make a stand for them, as well as, protection handles/rails to guard the pot.

We make them for every application, any feature you want, and at minimal cost...

They are always being redesigned with the aide of welders in the field. All updates are free.

[Mike W]

I made my own at minimal cost and designed to last a lifetime.
http://photobucket.com/albums/v110/t...g_welder_4.jpg

[cruizer]

You've got waaaayyyyyy to much spare time Mike

[Mike W]

LOL, I sometimes get a little too involved in some of my projects.

[aphexafx]

Points well taken, thank you all. Like I said, I am willing to pay for them, but I just wanted to see why everyone thought they cost as much as they do.

HAWK, I am in fact familiar with Amphenol connectors. We used the 24 pos. types to interconnect industrial laser mirror/scanners for lighting effects with HeNe and Dye lasers. I personally built the cables, and yes it can be daunting!

dyn88, made in the USA, that's a very good point I did not consider. Duh!

cruizer, your remotes sound interesting. I think I want a Miller pedal, but would love to see any information about your pedals that you may have.

Mike, sweet, man. Nice job. DIY is cool.

[Wheat]

Yeah know what you mean. Spending that kind of money for a foot control is a big pill to swallow. Tried three times on e-bay to buy one and keep getting "you've been outbidded" The last one outbid me with three seconds to go. If anyone's got one to sell they can e-mail me. Maybe then I won't get outbidded.

[cruizer]

The Hobart (T-dyne) foot pedal is quite easy to maintain, the Millers need a special pot if yours happens to break. That special pot is not cheap, and you can only get it from Miller!

The Hobarts merely slide out of the harness, slide a new one in and solder the leads. Also the Miller foot pedals are made out of PLASTIC, with the control Amphenol, or molex machine connector being plastic as well.

Accidently drop them, or drop something on them, and poof you need a new foot pedal. I've got a couple in the shop that were shattered.


Aphexafx, if you building cables the amphenols, a hint to stop them comming apart in the future is to toss the rubber strain relief boot, and install a short section of 3:1 shrink tube over the amphenol past the nut or threaded portion of the amphenol and on the first inch of the cable. The adhesive in the shrink tube will protect the amphenol from comming apart .
(You can cut it off at anytime, looks new just like the day you put, not corroded like an uncovered unit ) and add a fantanstic strong stain relief to the cable! No breakage or twisting,and no pulling the wires out of the amphenol. ever!!

Wheat, anytime you need a control, get in touch, maybe I'll post another on ebay shortly.


Oh yeah, Hobart is "Made in the USA"

[1fasbu]

gold plated remotes

After recieving my $242 (cnd) remote pedal for my maxstar150stl, left me wondering, mmmmmmmmm is it worth this much? 90% plastic, but it does have a steel bottom. Made in USA, I'm from Canada eh! aphexafx-I definitly would have made my own if I knew the pots specs. If you have a friend willing to let you take his apart to pin it out, you're laughing. Mine has a plastic connector, if you step on this once, it's done. Look for a steel connector if possible. cruizer-if I'd known you had such a product I would have driven to Edmonton to pick it up! (from sunny southern BC!) Cheers to all!

[Mike W]

The one used on the Syncrowave 250 has a 1,000 ohm pot. I just checked this tonight.

[cruizer]

OK, I stuck another foot pedal on ebay.

EBAY alias is :venturecap

[aphexafx]

Made in USA, I'm from Canada eh!

LOL! That's great.