balling tungsten with dynasty DX200

[jevs]

I am contemplating returning my syncrowave 180 and getting a dynasty 200dx instead and have been trying to educate myself on the net the whole day. I read that you cannot ball the tungsten on the dx200. Does this mean it will not weld aluminum as well as the syncro 180, or does it mean that it is superior and the "balling" is not needed for good welds? Aluminum is the biggest reason I am getting into TIG welding. I want the best machine for the money. Why can't they make just one TIG welder. Sigh!!

[Bendaman]

Your right do not ball the tungsten with Dynasty. In my opinion, the Dynasty
is a stronger choice over the 180SD when working with Alum. The advanced
squarewave technology allows the user the abilty to focus the arc into the
work. The Dynasty offers the user many additional arc control functions
that are not on the standard 180SD. However, I also know a few guys
with the 180SD and they too are very satisfied. Another helpfull source
might be the Miller "TIG Handbook" it talks about the different types
of TIG machines. It is also a good resource for a TIG welder.

Good Luck

[Mike W]

I believe Miller's current recomendation is not to ball the electrode on the non-inverter machines. I have been using a 1/16 pure with a taper. On AC, the end of the taper becomes rounded. I then tried a .040. At the same current, maybe less, it had the normal bell which was much larger than the round end on the 1/16.

[fun4now]

return the tungsten also

if you choose to return the syn180 to get the dyn200 you need 1.5% or 2% lanthanated tungsten. dont use your left over pure tungsten in the dynasty it is a disaster waiting to happen.
that syn180 is a great welder well spoken of. the dynasty is better on aluminum and will give you much more than just the extra 20 Amps.

if you have the extra $$$ make the switch.

[jevs]

The syncrowave 180 is still brand new never hooked up. I bought it yesterday, not knowing about the Dynasty . The more I read, the more I feel the need to go bigger and bigger. Now I am looking at the Dynasty 300, it seems to be the ultimate? It also has a big price, but according to millermotorsports it welds anything. And I like that spec. I hate depending on, waiting on, explaining, and all the other stuff it takes to get others to weld for you. I am starting to think about whipping out the home equity gold card and just buying the dynasty 300. Think I would need it? If I did get it should I start right off with the Cooler, or just get a basic setup going first? Is there any advantage the syncrowave 180 has over dynasty line other than price? This decision is driving me nuts!

[Paul Seaman]

jevs:
Welcome aboard, I feel the 200 dx is capable for up into the 1/4" thickness. I don't know what your prime thickness will be but I weld mostly 1/16" and 1/8" and have been doing it with a spoolgun in mig. I am picking up my 200dx tuesday, The mig gets it done but the bead profile is difficult to maintain on square tubing so the dynasty is step foreward. You know what you plan to weld most of the time so buy the machine that fits the majority of the work you plan to do. I prefer the dynasty to the syncros but the dynasty I've used is nearly new and the syncro I have used is old as the hills, still welds good but the dynasty will cover up a multitude of sins that the sync wont { pulse and wave form adjustments** Tough decision but I know if you buy the machine that fits the work life is grand.
Weld well, weld safe

[jevs]

My biggest problem is I want to do everything I may want to weld an aluminum cookie sheet, or an aluminum engine block. Both of these are real things I have needed to do. I have even needed to weld a magnesium steering wheel. I have to pay people to weld for me all the time. It is not going to get any better either because steel is becoming a thing of the past in the automotive market. If there was a way to do the heavy stuff with a smaller machine the decision would be easier. The Dynasty 200 would probobly do most of what I need, but what if I need to weld some thick aluminum. For example, I have a friend that wants me to weld up an aluminum wheel for him and powder coat it. Will the Dynasty 200 do thick stuff if I do it in multiple passes, V-groove it, or something?? The more I read the more I think I need the Dynasty 300. I just read this http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar100037.htm . I really don't want to spend that kind of money, but I will be mad if I get stuck paying someone to weld for me after laying out all this money for a TIG. The other delima is I have 0 TIG experience, so I have to rely on others experience to make this decision. As a side note I plan on lots of practice before welding my friends wheel

[Andy249]

Hi Jevs,

You would be best served by going for the best weld your pocket will let you, in terms of initial purchase price and value for money down the track. I recently bought myself a 300 amp TIG inverter, not so I could weld at 300 amps, but for the half decent duty cycle these machines offer over their smaller siblings. There are ways of getting around the lack of amperage issue such as preheating and multiple passes but if the best way is to run a bead and forget it then that is money in the bank for me!

As for balling up the tungsten for Aluminium. The tungsten will ball when you are running AC. If you need to focus the arc to a smaller area, use a smaller diameter tungsten (keep in mind though that you can vaporise your tungsten unless you get tricky with your wave balance to keep the heat off the tungsten. I just want to clarify you need a machine capable of AC to weld aluminium.

To be honest, if I were you, I would find a college or school where you can learn TIG on someone elses machines and material. Here in Australia they are pretty cheap because of government subsidy so see if you can find an equivalent where you are. I myself have spent money and many many hours doing the schooling and have found an invaluable tool! I keep my books on me all the time in case I need to reference anything such as weld procedures or material specs. Having access to trade qualified teachers at school is also priceless when it comes to the natty little tricks of the trade that are a must learn if you are to get anywhere.

Hope after all that I haven't confused you too much.

[Blown S-10]

jevs
it sounds to me like you have somewhat of a business going there, correct ?
if i had a money making venture going there is NO doubt that i would have bought a 300dx. it can do pretty much anything that can come through the door. your making money with it, don't go lesser, it could cost you jobs.

if your a hobby guy like me, and don't have a bunch of money, a 200dx is a good investment, i think.

when i make a tool purchase of this price, i ask myself. how much would it cost me to have someone do it for me. and how much would i think of using it over the years. for me, this tool will take a long time to pay for itself, just like my lathe/mill. but i found that a wise choice in a good tool is an investment in personal gratification = priceless . it makes my projects more professional.

[jevs]

I ordered the DYnasty 200DX. I could not justify the $3000 over the price of the SD180 for the 300DX. I could Justify the $1000 more for the 200DX, because it can do so much more and the small current drain/portability factor. The really nice thing as that my local suppliar is matching internet pricing for me, which I did not get on the SD180 I bought Saturday!. A word of advice for everyone.....Don't buy your machine on a Saturday when no boss is there to let the guy give you a good deal. I paid $1868 for the SD180 Runner on Saturday, and am paying $2840 for a 200DX with contractors kit on Monday! I chose the hand control option, I hope this was the right decision. I just figured I may be in some tight spots that would make it a pain to use a foot control. I may still buy a foot control to have when I am making something on the bench. Is there much of an advantage to a foot control? The only thing I can see would be a negative to the hand control is the movement of actuating the hand control on the torch while welded might "bump" it around a bit more.

[fun4now]

hand controle is said to be harder to master ? thouse that lernd the hand controle said the switch to foot was a cake walk. but lerning to go from foot to hand controler is harder.
my guess is the hand controler is harder to lern do to just plain too many things for your hands to be doing at 1 time. with the foot controle all your hands have to do is controle the spacing off the work, traval speed, adding filler did i say all you have to do is LOL adding the ramp up and down to the equation just plain overloads some people making the lerning curve even werse.
on the brighter side once you got the hand controle down your good to go on bolth

[jevs]

Maybe this is where all of my millions of video game hours will pay off. Good at working lots of buttons at once

[fun4now]

lol good point

haddent thought about it that way
but then again i always had truble with the L,R,U,LD,L,ROUND,L lol
I DID GET THE CHICKS IN MORTAL COMBAT TO SUCK YOU IN AND SPIT OUT YOUR BONES AND TO TURN YOU INTO A BABBY LOL best part of the game was the finish shot lol
then i went on to race cars and navy seals socom and that tipe so i gess im out of practice
oh well ill be getting the foot pedle

[Tanner]

Haha, I was the Mortal Kombat king! Now I just play on my computer, console games just aren't for me.

[fun4now]

my son got it now

my son has my ps2 now he took over for me as i moved out into the shop last summer. with the new inselation and new heater looks like he will get to keep it through the winter this year. now i only play it when he need help with the new games till he gets em worked out. after all he is only 5 LOL