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  • #31
    Dan,

    How are you calculating the current vs. wire speed? What numbers are you using?

    My guess: if the machine can run at 700ipm, then each 1/10th of the WFS dial = 70ipm. If .035 = 1.6 amps/ipm, then would a WFS setting of 30 = 3 X 70=210ipm, and thus 210ipm/1.6 amps = ~135amps?

    I'd just like to know...

    Hank
    ...from the Gadget Garage
    Millermatic 210 w/3035, BWE
    Handler 210 w/DP3035
    TA185TSW
    Victor O/A "J" series, SuperRange

    Comment


    • #32
      Dan,

      You are a detective, and I stand corrected. The Tap 5 wire speed 60 I got from looking at the wrong column of a note pad that I keep for settings I want to remember. It was Tap 3, but the wire speed is set just a tad more than 55. Prior to seeing your last response I was out in the garage blowing all the dust off the 210. While doing this I discovered that when I hooked up the spoogun a few months back, I must have forgotten to tighten up the large nut where the heavy black cables from the regular mig and the spoolgun are fastened. When I slightly bumped the wire from the spoolgun with the air nozzle, I observed that both black cables were loose, and the large nut that clamps them down was less than finger tight. I can't believe I got any spark out of this welder at all. I sure hope I didn't wreck anything. After tightening the cable nut I did not test the welder out because I have some other things I need to get done. Maybe later tomorrow I will take the manual out there and go over everything as if I am putting it together for the first time. Do you know if there is a possibility anything could have been damaged by this nut being loose, and could this be the cause (besides operator error) of any erratic welding behavior. I can't believe I would forget to tighten that nut, and then on top of that supply you with the wrong info to help me out...........sorry. I guess I am just going to have to step back and start focusing on the primary things so the secondary problems don't arrise, or are at least held to a minimum. If there was such a thing as MM210 abuse, I guess I would qualify big time. I have to get my act straightened out. Thanks for the help, and sorry to take up your time.

      Comment


      • #33
        Originally posted by hankj
        Dan,

        How are you calculating the current vs. wire speed? What numbers are you using?

        My guess: if the machine can run at 700ipm, then each 1/10th of the WFS dial = 70ipm. If .035 = 1.6 amps/ipm, then would a WFS setting of 30 = 3 X 70=210ipm, and thus 210ipm/1.6 amps = ~135amps?

        I'd just like to know...

        Hank
        Hank,

        I obtain my amperage values with an amp meter- see attachment.

        BTW, the wire speed range on the unit is 35-700 IPM. So, the %'s on the dial should be based on 665 IPM of wire being fed. As far as trying to calculate the amperage out mathimatical goes, that doesn t work very well. The meter is the way to go in my opinion.
        Attached Files

        Comment


        • #34
          Originally posted by Pat
          Dan,

          You are a detective, and I stand corrected. The Tap 5 wire speed 60 I got from looking at the wrong column of a note pad that I keep for settings I want to remember. It was Tap 3, but the wire speed is set just a tad more than 55. Prior to seeing your last response I was out in the garage blowing all the dust off the 210. While doing this I discovered that when I hooked up the spoogun a few months back, I must have forgotten to tighten up the large nut where the heavy black cables from the regular mig and the spoolgun are fastened. When I slightly bumped the wire from the spoolgun with the air nozzle, I observed that both black cables were loose, and the large nut that clamps them down was less than finger tight. I can't believe I got any spark out of this welder at all. I sure hope I didn't wreck anything. After tightening the cable nut I did not test the welder out because I have some other things I need to get done. Maybe later tomorrow I will take the manual out there and go over everything as if I am putting it together for the first time. Do you know if there is a possibility anything could have been damaged by this nut being loose, and could this be the cause (besides operator error) of any erratic welding behavior. I can't believe I would forget to tighten that nut, and then on top of that supply you with the wrong info to help me out...........sorry. I guess I am just going to have to step back and start focusing on the primary things so the secondary problems don't arrise, or are at least held to a minimum. If there was such a thing as MM210 abuse, I guess I would qualify big time. I have to get my act straightened out. Thanks for the help, and sorry to take up your time.
          Pat, everything should be fine. The only problem you created was a poor electrical connection, which will produce power losses in your output. I imaging the unit will perform quite differently with the connection being tight now. As far as your tap #3 and around 55 settings go, they sure seem like they would be in the same scenario as the 4/60 setting that you mentioned previously. A wire speed setting in the 55-60 range with a .035 solid wire falls in the 180-190 amp range. For short circuit transfer this amperage range needs a load voltage in the 21-22 volt range. To obtain this voltage to amperage ratio requires the use of tap #5. I ran a few experiment last night with .030 and .035 solid wire using c-25 on tap #5. On my unit the suggested door chart settings are off some, more with the .030 then the .035. The suggested .030 door chart setting is 5/70, this produced a load voltage in the 21.4 to 21.6 range, and an amperage in the 165 to 170 range. This voltage value is to high for the amperage so the wire was pinching off pretty large. What i came up with as a much better starting point for my unit was 78 on the wirespeed. At 5/78 with an .030 wire, the unit was outputting a load voltage in the 21.4-21.5 range, and an amperage in the 180-189 range. This voltage to amperage ratio is more idea, and it showed in the arc quality, because the arc was much tighter. 21-22 volts however, is going to produce spatter though, since these voltage values are the upper region of short circuit transfer were the metal transfer is boarding on transitioning into a globular transfer. Anyway, with the .035 wire tap#5 and the suggested wirespeed setting of 55, produced an amperage that falls in the voltage range (21-21.4 volts and 183 - 191 amps) however, the arc was off a little. So, i upped the wire slightly to around 58, which produced better results. this resulted in the unit outputting 20.8-21.4 load volts and an amperage range in the 180 - 190 range. BTW, I understand Miller recommends tap #5 for 3/8" , which i find a little strange since the Millermatic calculator they provide as a reference guide recommends a load voltage in the 21-22 range with an amperage in the 180 - 190 for 1/4". Miller didn t establish this 21-22 volt @ 180-190 amp range, there are several reference materials available with these #'s in them. I started welding in 1988 , and these were the suggested #'s then, so I m wondering what has change, besides marketing hype, to make it so I should be able to use these outputs on thicker material.

          Comment


          • #35
            Dan,

            Went out there and cranked it to tap 7 and WFS 65. The power is awesome - I could feel the table vibrating at the short-arc ignition frequency. Had to turn the hat up to shade 11 to see!

            Actually started welding the .1875 teeth to the I-beam (.375) for the "Browns Valley Mini-cutivator" to drag behind the lawn tractor for breaking up the surface of this clay so I can sacatter grass seed in the bare spots in the early spring. The teeth will NOT come off due to weld failure!

            My son is visiting, and I'm gonna get him to take some clamp-on ammeter readings for me while I weld later today. I'm kinda glad that the ammeter was the solution - I know how to work that!!

            I'm convinced that his is all the welder the Gadget Garage will ever need, except for the 180SD next year!

            LOVE my MM210!

            Hank
            ...from the Gadget Garage
            Millermatic 210 w/3035, BWE
            Handler 210 w/DP3035
            TA185TSW
            Victor O/A "J" series, SuperRange

            Comment


            • #36
              Originally posted by hankj
              Dan,

              Went out there and cranked it to tap 7 and WFS 65. The power is awesome - I could feel the table vibrating at the short-arc ignition frequency. Had to turn the hat up to shade 11 to see!

              Actually started welding the .1875 teeth to the I-beam (.375) for the "Browns Valley Mini-cutivator" to drag behind the lawn tractor for breaking up the surface of this clay so I can sacatter grass seed in the bare spots in the early spring. The teeth will NOT come off due to weld failure!

              My son is visiting, and I'm gonna get him to take some clamp-on ammeter readings for me while I weld later today. I'm kinda glad that the ammeter was the solution - I know how to work that!!

              I'm convinced that his is all the welder the Gadget Garage will ever need, except for the 180SD next year!

              LOVE my MM210!

              Hank
              Hank,

              Tap#7 and 65 with an .035 and c-25 isn t short circuit transfer. Your in the 24-25 load volt range with an amperge around 210. This is a high end globular transfer. If you had 98/2 available to you these setting would put you into a spray transfer.

              Your clamp meter needs to be able to take DC amp readings to work.

              Comment


              • #37
                Dan,

                Killer.

                Yeah, my clamp-on's a Fluke. It's a good one, from the "old" days when I still worked for a living!

                I'll have 98/2 one of these days, but right now the prioity is 100% and getting up to speed on the 3035.

                Later, sir!!

                Hank
                ...from the Gadget Garage
                Millermatic 210 w/3035, BWE
                Handler 210 w/DP3035
                TA185TSW
                Victor O/A "J" series, SuperRange

                Comment


                • #38
                  Couple of things I've never had to deal with 'till now:

                  1. Burn-through on3/16"!! (I LOVE it!) Understand how to fix that.

                  2. On fillet welds on 3/8", I'm leaving a craterd end similar to a TIG weld where the pedal wasn't backed off. Tried slowing down at the end with poor results (big glob). Any hints?

                  Wish I had pictures, but the digital camera was just a little too far to push for...

                  Hank
                  ...from the Gadget Garage
                  Millermatic 210 w/3035, BWE
                  Handler 210 w/DP3035
                  TA185TSW
                  Victor O/A "J" series, SuperRange

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Hank:
                    Right before the end I pick up speed for a slightly flatter weld then roll back when I hit the end. This is with a weave or swirl pattern. Give it a try, on scrap of coarse.
                    Practice, Practice,Practice, aint it fun!

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      You can pulse the trigger toward the end and fill in the area. Once you get the feel for this you can pulse just enough to let the puddle cool down and still put down a good looking weld.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        pjs,

                        Yeah, that gets it. I was weaving. About an inch before I hit the end, I made a quick run out and then weaved back with my same 1-2 cout on the high sides, and it looks great.

                        timw,

                        Thanks. I tried pjs's solution before I read your post, but I'm gonna try that later.

                        Lovin' it.

                        Hank
                        ...from the Gadget Garage
                        Millermatic 210 w/3035, BWE
                        Handler 210 w/DP3035
                        TA185TSW
                        Victor O/A "J" series, SuperRange

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Hank:
                          Glad to be of help.
                          Weld well, weld safe

                          Comment

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