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  • #16
    Originally posted by hankj
    Dan,

    Caught the emphasis - yeah, huh?

    I'll probaly try it just for drill, but the way this machine welds with C-25, there really is no need for the "penetration power" of the CO2. I had cut up some 3/8 cupon material yesterday, and today I got to PLAY! Tap5 @ 50 WS; COMPLETE fusion, even accross the bottom, on a "T"-joint filet weld.
    I cut it in half on the band saw and was amazed. It's like starting over.

    I won't have a chance to grab onto any Al this week, but next week, we gonna try the 3035!!

    GOD, this is cool!!


    Fun,

    I've done that on the neighbor's little windmill fan - 22 ga. - and it did work just fine. It's real simple to swap gas, but my C-25 jug shall reside on the MM210!!

    Hank
    Hank,

    Cool, glad to see that your using the good stuff (c-25) on the 210. If you think 5/50 with an .035 wire burns into 3/8" good, give tap #7 and around 65 a try. This will give you a good idea of the kind of power that you have available to you now. Personally though, if i use #7 with with c-25, i like to switch to an .030 wire because this puts the amperage deeper into the spray transfer range for the wire, which results in less spatter. Plus, a slightly higher energy arc. For the .030 with tap 7 i run around 80 on the wire speed.

    BTW, have you tried the unit on tap #3 with a wire speed in the 38-42 range. If you haven t, give it a try, because i have a feeling you'll be pretty impressed.

    Comment


    • #17
      Hank,

      Welcome to the 210 club. I have had mine for approx 1 year and I like to brag about it whenever I get the chance. Even though I have had it for about a year, I just recently said goodbye to the flux cored wire and hooked it up to C-25. I can not say for sure that I will never run the cored wire through it again, but won't unless it is an absolute must. I have 2 Lincoln Weld-Pak 100's and I am going to dedicate one of them to the cored wire.

      Before the MM210 I never used anything larger than the 110V models, so I guess I never knew what I was missing. Maybe it is just because there is such a large gap in the performance between my little Lincoln's and the 210, but it is my opinion that the 210 might be under rated and be more of an industrial type machine than it is given credit for................Happy Welding.

      Dan,

      I have been fabricating some wrought iron railings out of 1/2" solid square stock for the pickets, and 1 1/2" wide X 1/8" thick top and bottom rails. To weld them I use the 210 with C-25, .035 wire, with the chart settings at 2 levels above what it calls for 1/8" (it eludes me right now what that setting is) and concentrate on the pickets allowing the weld to wash on to the 1/8" rails. I have been getting more spatter than would like, and now I am wondering if your comment to Hank about running C25 with .030 wire at a higher tap might benefit me with these railings allowing good penetration with less spatter. Any advice would be greatly appreciated............thanks.

      Hank,

      I am not trying to hijack your thread, just thought maybe I would sneak that in while Dan is around...........thanks.

      Comment


      • #18
        Dan,

        Yeah, I ran those settings (3/40) on some 3/16 x 2 flat bar, which I welded a LOT of with the 135, but NEVER like this!

        Pat,

        I don't think you can "hijack" a thread - the discussion benefits everyone. have at it! I agree that the Dan resource is too valuable not to take advantage of!! Like you, my only previous GMAW experience was with the MM135, which is a **** good little machine, and I also agree that the 210 is under rated.

        Quick note about taps vs. tracking: finding the sweet spot was **** near instantaneous! Taps are where it's at!

        Hank
        ...from the Gadget Garage
        Millermatic 210 w/3035, BWE
        Handler 210 w/DP3035
        TA185TSW
        Victor O/A "J" series, SuperRange

        Comment


        • #19
          Yes the "Dan resource" is nice to have around.

          Comment


          • #20
            Thanks Hank,

            I have never used anything except flux cored or solid .035 wire, so I am really unsure if the .030 at a different setting would provide any benefits in regards to welding up the railings.

            I do know that when migging 1/8" or 1/4" flat stock using .035 wire with C-25 I can achieve almost spatterless excellent quality welds. But every time I try joining 2 different thicknesses of mild steel I run into the old spatter problem even after playing around with the gas or welder settings. Or when I gain in one area I loose something in another. I know it's not the machine, it is the operator

            I know I have a 2lb roll of .030 wire, but I am going to have to go out and check if the 210 came with some complimentry .030 tips, I know I did not buy any. If it did maybe I will go out and do some experimenting while I am awaiting an opinion from Dan. I am glad I got my new Trailblazer 302 last week. Sounds like I saved a little because of the pending price increase.....yipee, for once something worked in my favor.

            Comment


            • #21
              Pat,

              There were 5 each - .030/.035 in my package.

              Hank
              ...from the Gadget Garage
              Millermatic 210 w/3035, BWE
              Handler 210 w/DP3035
              TA185TSW
              Victor O/A "J" series, SuperRange

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by Pat
                Hank,

                Welcome to the 210 club. I have had mine for approx 1 year and I like to brag about it whenever I get the chance. Even though I have had it for about a year, I just recently said goodbye to the flux cored wire and hooked it up to C-25. I can not say for sure that I will never run the cored wire through it again, but won't unless it is an absolute must. I have 2 Lincoln Weld-Pak 100's and I am going to dedicate one of them to the cored wire.

                Before the MM210 I never used anything larger than the 110V models, so I guess I never knew what I was missing. Maybe it is just because there is such a large gap in the performance between my little Lincoln's and the 210, but it is my opinion that the 210 might be under rated and be more of an industrial type machine than it is given credit for................Happy Welding.

                Dan,

                I have been fabricating some wrought iron railings out of 1/2" solid square stock for the pickets, and 1 1/2" wide X 1/8" thick top and bottom rails. To weld them I use the 210 with C-25, .035 wire, with the chart settings at 2 levels above what it calls for 1/8" (it eludes me right now what that setting is) and concentrate on the pickets allowing the weld to wash on to the 1/8" rails. I have been getting more spatter than would like, and now I am wondering if your comment to Hank about running C25 with .030 wire at a higher tap might benefit me with these railings allowing good penetration with less spatter. Any advice would be greatly appreciated............thanks.

                Hank,

                I am not trying to hijack your thread, just thought maybe I would sneak that in while Dan is around...........thanks.
                Pat,

                Tap #5 outputs a load voltage in the upper range of short circuit transfer for c-25. So, some spatter should be exspected from this tap. No matter the wire size, the arc will be harsh. Which wire size produces the smoothest metal transfer with tap #5, I actually don t know the answer to this question, because I ve never ran an .030 wire on tap #5. I did plan on playing with the unit some this evening though, so I ll play with this a little to see what the results are.

                BTW, I could be mistaken, but I thought i ran some tests for you in the past on this joint design. On the test joints i did with these material thicknesses, I ran the unit at tap #3 and between 40-42 with an .035 wire. With these machine settings there was of course almost no spatter. The fusion between the base metal and weld bead at these machine settings was more then adequate for the intended purpose of the joint design. When i welded opposite sides of the joint I was unable to break the weld joints loose with a sledge hammer. To me this means the weld joint is plenty strong enough for a fence. In actual practice though, i d probably install an .030 wire on the unit, still running the unit on tap #3 but upping the wire into the 50 -52 range. These settings have the unit outputting a load voltage and amperage range similar to the .035 wire with the above mentioned tap #3 and 40 - 42 wirespeed settings. The advantage here though is the .030 gives you a little more time to read the puddle. Plus, the current density is a little higher with the .030 wire so you achieve slightly better weld bead penetration too.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by hankj
                  Dan,


                  Quick note about taps vs. tracking: finding the sweet spot was **** near instantaneous! Taps are where it's at!

                  Hank
                  Hank see, I haven t been lying to you guys, when i stated how easy it is to dial the arc in on a properly designed tapped unit. The MM 210 is of course one of these properly designed units. I must admit though that i would have liked to have seen one more available tap selection on the unit. What i mean by this, is i would have liked to have see a tap on the unit that produces a load voltage in the 17's at an amperage in the 120 to 130 range.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Hank,

                    Glad to see you finally got one. They say good things come for all those who wait. You took your time, did all your research. Got what you wanted. Closer to my Dynasty 200DX. Bought the torch, cable protector, got all my tungsten, got outbidded on my foot control. Oh well. Have fun with your new machine. You've certainly deserved it...
                    Wheat Stalker

                    Millermatic 210
                    Dynasty 200DX
                    Fisher CZ-5...CZ-3D..
                    Trek 5500
                    1966 Amphicar

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Dan,

                      Come to think of it you did do some experimenting for me. I always print stuff like that out, so I will look for it. Yes you got me squared away and I was using the same settings that you suggested (most of the time). I think the 1/2" picket iron has stayed pretty consistent (other than the cost) while I have been doing this because it welds up good when I use some for other projects. Now, the channel I think is a different story. At times I would have a little bit of a problem getting the puddle to wash on to it as if the picket was pulling the arc away from it. I would then over correct and occaisionally blow a hole or two in the top or bottom rail. When I get the steel the picket material always has red paint on one end or the other. The channel is always blue on the end. I punch my own square holes in the channel with my ironworker using a 9/16" punch and die. Sometimes when punching the channel the punch will go through without making any noise, and if I grab another piece of channel from a different run or whatever they call it, sometimes there is a very distinct snapping sound as if that piece of channel is made of much harder steel. I have not given it much thought until now, but I wonder if this "harder" channel is the cause of some of my spatter and control problems. I have gotten pretty sound welds on the railings, and if it was not for the fact that I weld the picket on the top side of the bottom rail, I would not be all that fussy about the spatter. The reason for welding it on the top instead of the bottom is because I need to use the 9/16th's punch to make sure that the pickets will always clear the hole, and this leaves a cheesy looking gap, and I think appearance wise a nice clean weld looks better than the gap..........thanks.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Dan,

                        I did notice a harsh arc on tap #5 at the door chart settings, so I backed of the wire speed a tad and it was all good. So what's happening there? Close to transition voltage for spray? In that case, do I need to be using 86/14 or 98 Ar and 2 O2?

                        Wheat,

                        Thanks, brother! Actually, I'm kinda glad I learned on the MM135. It made the switch to this bad boy pretty easy, and I learned a lot from using the little guy for a year and a half.

                        Hank
                        ...from the Gadget Garage
                        Millermatic 210 w/3035, BWE
                        Handler 210 w/DP3035
                        TA185TSW
                        Victor O/A "J" series, SuperRange

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by hankj
                          Dan,

                          I did notice a harsh arc on tap #5 at the door chart settings, so I backed of the wire speed a tad and it was all good. So what's happening there? Close to transition voltage for spray? In that case, do I need to be using 86/14 or 98 Ar and 2 O2?

                          Wheat,

                          Thanks, brother! Actually, I'm kinda glad I learned on the MM135. It made the switch to this bad boy pretty easy, and I learned a lot from using the little guy for a year and a half.

                          Hank

                          I would stay away from 86/14 with that unit. It will take too much arc voltage to really get a decent spray. It also will make your machine want to break into globular type weld earlier then C-25 gas. I would run 98/2 because it will spray much easier. If you have a 251 then go for some 90/10 or about any other spray gas you want. Two tanks of gases are usually better then one. Some machines with more power can handle 86/14 pretty well but I that one is right on the fence. You will like the 98/2 anyway so it's not a big deal.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Thanks, Scott.

                            I'll most likely just stay in short circuit most of the time. My needs don't dictate spray now, but down the road, if I need to, I CAN!

                            Hank
                            ...from the Gadget Garage
                            Millermatic 210 w/3035, BWE
                            Handler 210 w/DP3035
                            TA185TSW
                            Victor O/A "J" series, SuperRange

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Hank,

                              Yep, like you said there were some .030 tips however I did not try them because I think I know what my spatter and wash problems are stemming from. See below post to Dan,

                              Dan,

                              I went out and was going to see if I had everything needed to change over to .030 wire. Once I found that I had everything I decided to hold off because I was going to check out my theory about the different hardnesses of the channel. Once I found some good scrap pieces of what I considered hard and soft channel, I welded some 1/2 picket material to them using the .035 wire at tap 4 with a wire speed of about 60. I must admit I did not notice any difference in the amount of spatter or ease ease of getting the puddle to wash into the 1/8" rail on the hard or soft pieces. So after sitting and thinking about it I decided to try welding some more scrap together and pay attention to just how I was performing the weld.

                              What I found was that I have not been very consistent on the amount of stick out I have been leaving. I found that with a longer stick out the arc would tend to jump to the picket material. Then keeping the shortest stick out possible I tried 3 more sample welds. These were some of the best welds I have made using this material, and observed that on the third one where I was falling back in to my old habit of not watching the stick out, I got a lot more spatter and felt like I had less control of the puddle. So, here is another example of operator error by not paying attention to what I am doing. I think when you helped me another time on an unrelated project you counseled me on the virtues of having the proper stick out, one would think that it would have sunk in by now. The spatter on the good welds was very minimal, and no where near the amount I was getting before. I am not going to try the .030, but I am going to try to tweek the settings to see if I can get even better results............thanks

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Pat,

                                A wire speed setting of 60 sure seems excessively high for tap #4. I probably won 't have time to try these settings out today, but it sure seems like this high of a wire speed setting is going to be to high for the voltage range that tap #4 outputs. With .035 solid wire, 60 on the wire speed is going to be in the 190 amp + range, with this amperage level, you want around 21 volts for short circuit transfer. I know tap #4 isn t capable of outputting these #'s. The door chart settings for 1/4", which are tap #4 and 48 on the wire speed output around 19 load volts and 160 amps. So upping the wire speed to were the unit is outputting 190+ amps on tap #4 is more then likely going to cause the voltage to drop into the 18V range. As i stated above this sure seems low for the wire speed setting. Anyway, I ll try to test these settings to see the actual results. Then pass my opinion of them on to you.

                                Comment

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