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The 210 or 180SD for race car chassis welding?

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  • pdog
    replied
    Thanks for the help. I really didn't plan on using any cm parts that needed to be welded. The rear clip is steel, so that would be able to be migged.

    I have 200 amp service in my house, panel right in the garage. I just need to add a dedicated line for the 220 volt for either the 210 or 180SD unit.

    I do not know anyone that has a tig, so I cannot borrow one. I have a feeling I will go with the MIG unless someone else has another suggestion.

    Leave a comment:


  • ASKANDY
    replied
    Welcome aboard!

    As stated in a number of previous posts, TIG is the best way to weld 4130 material in a tubing application. That said, I know there are people that have MIG welded this but it is not a good idea as the short arc process tends to make the area surrounding the weld brittle. If you are planning to follow a particular sanctioning body rules, you may be required to TIG this anyway. Fopr mild steel tube MIG is no problem. The Sync 180 will do anything chassis wise you need to do and yes it does take quite a bit longer. As you said, MIG will be easier for you to pick back up. Most of the chassis we build here are MIG welded unless the customer states he wants TIG. A TIG welded chassis is a bunch more money. I do TIG most of our suspension parts like control arms, shock mounts etc. I guess I would have to ask myself these questions.

    What rules do I have to follow if any?
    How fast do I need to get this job done?
    Do I need to do critical Aluminum work like tanks or manifolds?
    Do I have enough power in the garage/shop for a TIG machine?
    Does this have to be a Chrome-moly chassis?
    Is the subframe yo intend on purchasing a Chrome-moly piece?
    Can I use a friends TIG machine to get a realistic idea of the skill needed or to get some pointers?

    All these questions will help you qualify what type of machine needed. If it were me, I would choose a TIG because of it being the most versitile but the only problem with that is, I already know how to weld with it. If I were in your shoes, I might be inclined to go with the MIG if I could do the job with out using any 4130 stuff.

    Sorry this is not a definitive answer but I hope it helps you out.

    Andy

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  • pdog
    started a topic The 210 or 180SD for race car chassis welding?

    The 210 or 180SD for race car chassis welding?

    First time poster here. Sorry for the length of this post.

    I mig welded many years ago with a 110 welder. I got to the point where I could lay a pretty good bead and was able to weld my exhaust and roll cage.

    Since I am now getting back into the drag racing scene again, I am basically starting from scratch and looking to get a welder to do similar jobs, including rear chassis subframe work (tubbing) and cage work. Since I have mig welded before and it seems the easiest to learn, I planned on going with the more powerful 210 unit.

    I have seen a couple of people recommending the 180SD tig machine to perform cage work (on chrome moly) and aluminum. I have never tigged before, but I do not want that to sway the decision as I am willing to learn.

    Since money is always an issue, I do not (or should I say I cannot) purchase both a mig and tig machine. I plan on proceeding with either machine I get very slowly until I have enough practice. As always, safety is my number 1 concern and will not even attempt something as important as chassis work until an experienced welder comments on my technique. I will also look for classes (adult evening) to take.

    Will the tig unit be too slow to perform work like this? The 180SD I believe can weld up to 3/16" steel, but I am not sure that is enough for say a prepackaged rear subframe from S&W or Chassis Engineering.

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks
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