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  • #16
    Andy249, I bought a book from England on buioding Aluminum boats, and they used the same thing for back grinding welds, they referred to it as the "Meat Chopper", there are also small saw blades used in milling machines for cutting slots which can be used, they are usually non casrbide, but come in 1" and bigger sizes and also different widths, hope this helps, Paul
    More Spark Today Pleasesigpic

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    • #17
      I like to use abrasive cut off wheels in a diegrinder on aluminum. Now I know this will open up a can of worms. But heres the secret, load the wheel up with candle wax every so often. This way when you cut the grit gets released from the base and can easily be removed with a stainless brush and the acetone will remove the parifin.(stainless brush and acetone standard practice when welding al)
      Trailblazer 302g
      coolmate4
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      super s-32p
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      • #18
        That's a good tip about the candle wax. Will this also work on abrasive grinding wheels? How can you tell when you need to apply more wax?
        Zeb's Welding and Machine

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        • #19
          the wax works excellant on grinding wheels also.You ca tell when the wheel doesnt seem to be removing much material, just drive it into more wax. I cannot stress enough that after any preperation of aluminum is done useing this method you must be sure to clean the aluminum very well or you will have contamination.
          Trailblazer 302g
          coolmate4
          hf-251d-1
          super s-32p
          you can never know enough

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          • #20
            We use the same blades at work for back gouging butt welds and I've also heard them called "meat axes". I beleve the workmens compansation board here in canada has made them ilegal to use because we have trouble buying them.

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            • #21
              Protraxrptr17

              you never adressed why you didnt stop drill the cracks? or was the fact that this was not going to be ridden the anser? even if it isent going to be ridden you should treat it as though it would . you could teach youre self some bad habbits by practicing them.
              just a thought.
              but i like to practice as if it were the real deal. shortcuting in practice could accidently end up in production on a long tiring day.
              thanks for the help
              ......or..........
              hope i helped
              sigpic
              feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. [email protected]
              summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
              JAMES

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              • #22
                Paul,

                I'm actually building aluminium boats where that photo was taken, we call them meat axes here. I've done some experimentation with the two lubes that I use here and I have found that I don't actually have to do much afterwards in terms of cleaning the area before MIG welding, TIG of course seems to be a very much different kettle of fish!

                I've seen more accidents with guillotenes, presses, band saws and the like then with meat axes, probably because people are just more wary of the danger with these. As I said I always wear my leather welding gloves with them, that way you get a bit of warning if you get nicked. That is what I do and I can still count to ten!

                It must be the daredevil danger element that allows me to love this job so much!
                Andy249
                "Its the way it spatters that matters!"

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Andy249
                  I thought I might post a pic of the nasty, nasty tool I use for docking pieces of aluminium and making aluminium things fit. It looks pretty nasty in my opinion and believe me it is! I wear my leather welding gloves when using this jigger as I reckon it would make short work of things like fingers and tendons! Can't wait till I get my compressor and air angle grinder, these are generally a fair bit nicer to use, dangerous none the less!
                  that thing looks dangerous . i gotta get one.

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                  • #24
                    dangerous

                    it dose look a lil nasty but i think the benifits out waigh the danger . and as with any tool it realy comes down to operator safty,it's there or it's not after all andy can still count to ten.hummm come to think of it he didnt say if his shose were on when he counted
                    i think i'll look around for 1 of thouse when i start aluminum.look's like a real time saver.
                    i wonder if 1 of thouse lil cutters with the 2 blades going in opisit directions would work .bit more pricie though.
                    thanks for the help
                    ......or..........
                    hope i helped
                    sigpic
                    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. [email protected]
                    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
                    JAMES

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                    • #25
                      Andy249, actually that is what the book I read called them, a 'meat Axe', I like to use a welding hood with a clear lens for face/neck protection, you don't get that distorted view as with a curved lens, and it only cost a Dollar to replace when scratched, compared to 7 or 8 for the curved job. I was in Brisbane a few years back and at one time was to work for Volvo trucks there in their education center, but they ran out of money. I would like to see some of the boat stuff you do, as this is an intrest of mine, but I can never gget started on anything due to space. Shoot an email to [email protected], or post something here if it wouldn't be a problem. While in Queensville, I worked a couple of weeks near Alpha [Blackwater area]and Roma at some cattle stations doing spring muster, boy did my bum get sore on those 100,000 acre stations, nothing like rounding up 2500 head of cattle [semi wild] on horse back, made me think I was in the Wild American West of the 1800's. Best Regards, Paul
                      More Spark Today Pleasesigpic

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                      • #26
                        I didn't drill the ends of the cracks because this swingarm is just scrap. It'll be cut into countless pieces and rewelded into all sorts of shapes. Aluminum swingarms won't last on an MX quad anyway. The custom ones are chrome-moly.

                        If somebody finds a place to get one of those knarly blades please post a link or phone number. I can't seem to find them. I don't really know what to call it when searching.
                        Zeb's Welding and Machine

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                        • #27
                          Today 07:52 PM
                          Protraxrptr17
                          Try MSC, they are an Industrial supply company dealing in machine tools, endmills,lathe stuff, they will have them under saw blades....Paul
                          More Spark Today Pleasesigpic

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                          • #28
                            one thing that i noticed is the craters that you have at the end of the weld..... that is a sure fire way to get more cracks in the future...

                            so this is what i would recomend.......

                            sorry for the poor drawing but here goes

                            I000000000I

                            say that the last I is the crater at the end of the weld......

                            what you should do is some thing like this

                            IOOOOO(I)OOI see how i moved the crater back over the weld which make it stronger

                            dawg

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                            • #29
                              tungsten contamination for aluminum

                              Besides inadequate gas shielding, I have found that a contaminated tungsten will add soot to your welds in aluminum.
                              At times I have been laying down a perfect looking practice bead, and all the sudden I tap the rod on the electrode and that black soot instantly appears around the weld and up the tungsten. I can't remember if it does it for aluminum, but for steel the arc instantly changes color through my mask if I contaminate the tungsten.
                              I seem to have extra problems with tungsten contamination on aluminum because the fill rod is lighter, more bouncy and a I am scrambling to feed it faster than I would for steel. Most often for me it's the fill rod and not the puddle that hits the electrode. Unfortunately you also have to keep the end of the rod in the gas flow so it's molten end doesn't contaminate like a weld would.

                              If you are using a nice inverter machine you know that you can run 2% thoridated with a sharpend point, right? (I guess I'm spoiled, I never had to weld with a balled pure tungsten.) While you are welding there shouldn't be much decay of the tungsten. Except for the very end which smoothes over, it should look like you just ground it.

                              Another hint is to grind it to a point like a pencil, then blunt the tip just a little so there is a flat spot. This will help direct the arc and will prevent the point from getting ragged and splitting open. The more heat you expect to put into the tungsten, the larger the flat spot should be. This trick applies to all metals and should give you much less arc wander.

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