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  • Danny
    replied
    Originally posted by BradJacob
    Hey Dan,

    Real nice. What were your settings (tap, feed) for this?

    I tried your settings last night (tap:7/80) and made some nice welds.

    Welds that cleaned up really nice too with the grinder.

    One thing: - my welds with your settings sure made a "large" bead with a lot of filler metal.

    I was welding 1/4 inch. I'll post pix - it was too late last night to photo and upload so I'll be doing it in the next day or so.

    Another thing I realized: Once you get your settings down (25%) it's ALL skill and technique after that (75%) !!!!

    You REALLY have to have a steady hand to produce welds like your new 251 picture. As always, practice, practice, practice...
    Brad,

    The short arc weld on 1/8" was done with an .035 E70S-6 and c-25 using the tap#3 and 40 wire speed setting off the door chart. The doorchart for 1/8" on my unit with an .030 or .035 is pretty solid.

    BTW, to run the 7/80 settings you were using an .030 wire i hope. If you were using an .035, i don t recommend doing that again, because with the wire speed set to 80 with an .035 solid wire, you looking at potential some where around 250 amps, which isn t good for the unit obviously.

    With the 7/80 setting and an .030 wire, your rate of travel is going to need to be quicker then what you are use to with short circuit transfer, because you are depositing quite a bit more weld metal. Plus the higher voltage causes the weld puddle to wetout quicker too.

    Leave a comment:


  • BradJacob
    replied
    Originally posted by Dan
    Here's a 210 short arc weld on 1/8".
    Hey Dan,

    Real nice. What were your settings (tap, feed) for this?

    I tried your settings last night (tap:7/80) and made some nice welds.

    Welds that cleaned up really nice too with the grinder.

    One thing: - my welds with your settings sure made a "large" bead with a lot of filler metal.

    I was welding 1/4 inch. I'll post pix - it was too late last night to photo and upload so I'll be doing it in the next day or so.

    Another thing I realized: Once you get your settings down (25%) it's ALL skill and technique after that (75%) !!!!

    You REALLY have to have a steady hand to produce welds like your new 251 picture. As always, practice, practice, practice...

    Leave a comment:


  • cope
    replied
    Originally posted by BCarlucci
    Well guys,

    For the wire increases, everyone except canada, you should all be paying around 40-50 bucks per spool and if your distributor is selling it for more then it's just wrong. But that weld-it brand is no good, i've used it and i had to use 3 33lbs spools before i got one that didn't bind up in the spool, when they spool the wire they don't spool it uniform so the wire that's getting pulled out is buried underneath 3-4 layers of wire.

    BC
    BC,

    I have never used the 33# spools, but I have used the 12# spools and I have never experienced, nor have I heard of, a problem with them until your post. Thanks for the information. I can get J.W. HArris cheaper anyway.

    Leave a comment:


  • BCarlucci
    replied
    Well guys,

    For the wire increases, everyone except canada, you should all be paying around 40-50 bucks per spool and if your distributor is selling it for more then it's just wrong. But that weld-it brand is no good, i've used it and i had to use 3 33lbs spools before i got one that didn't bind up in the spool, when they spool the wire they don't spool it uniform so the wire that's getting pulled out is buried underneath 3-4 layers of wire.

    BC

    Leave a comment:


  • cope
    replied
    Originally posted by Alex
    Cope,
    Why in the world do you still have a full bottle of 90/10? You should be usin' it. I ordered a 80 ft (Q) bottle of it from Praxair last Friday. They don't keep it handy 'cuz everyone around here just does short arc. Had to give my bottle of 75/25 to my son, so I'm dry until that one comes in. Probably be here next Monday. Saw another post talkin' about rising wire prices, have you noticed any increase in Houston lately?

    Later,
    Alex
    Alex,

    I bought the 90/10 for spray with my old PowCon, but the concensus is that 98/2 would work better. I have tried the 90/10 for short arc and it works OK. Yes, wire is higher here; I bought 33# from a distributor 16 months ago and 2 weeks ago he quoted me a 25% increase on the same brand. FWIW, Northern Tool has 33# Weld-it .035 for $59.95. Don't know what Brenham's prices are.

    Leave a comment:


  • Danny
    replied
    Originally posted by Teeps
    I HATE YOU!!!! j/k'ing
    **** you, off I go to the blood donation center, mm 251 fund taking donations.

    Can't do that kind of weld with my 135 amp machine, no way.

    Actually it will probably be the miller 210 fund for me though.

    I ve had a MM 210 for about 2 1/2 years now, and it's a pretty good unit. I like it because the tapped voltage selection design of it makes it quite easy to dial the short circuit transfer arc in on.

    You'd be suprised to see how much of a difference there is in how the weld wets out between your MM 135 and the MM 210 on material as thin as an 1/8". Reason being, because the 135 welds 1/8" at a lower amperage and voltage then the 210. Here's a 210 short arc weld on 1/8".
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Danny
    replied
    Originally posted by 2002vlx
    Dan! Those welds are beautiful, and I'm sure they're as strong as they look good. Were those welded with a slight weave pattern, or what? You must have one **** of a steady hand(s). I always get a couple good shakes in there from this ol body during a bead.

    Yeah, there is definitely no lack of fusion issues with the welds that I posted. i ve cross section and acid etch several of them, and the weld penetrates into the legs of the joint and the root.

    The welds were all produced on 1/4" mild steel. So, at the load voltages, and amperages (volume of wire being thrown into the weld) that i ran the welds, all i had to basically do was travel straight along the weld joint.

    Leave a comment:


  • Danny
    replied
    Originally posted by Alex
    Nice lookin' weld, Dan. I hope mine look as good when I get my bottle of 90/10 for my MM251.

    Alex
    Alex,

    When I test drove the MM 251 for spray arc at my local welding supply store, i used 90/10, and the result looked exactly the same as the weld i posted. 90/10 will produce a a more uniform weld bead penetration, so as soon as I empty my current bottle of 98/2 i'll probably switch to the 90/10 too.

    Leave a comment:


  • Alex
    replied
    Cope,
    Why in the world do you still have a full bottle of 90/10? You should be usin' it. I ordered a 80 ft (Q) bottle of it from Praxair last Friday. They don't keep it handy 'cuz everyone around here just does short arc. Had to give my bottle of 75/25 to my son, so I'm dry until that one comes in. Probably be here next Monday. Saw another post talkin' about rising wire prices, have you noticed any increase in Houston lately?

    Later,
    Alex

    Leave a comment:


  • BCarlucci
    replied
    Hey guys,

    If i'm not mistaken you can run spray transfer with a few different %'s of Ar/CO2 and Ar/oxy. I've run spray transfer with 95AR/5 CO2, and 98/2 AR/CO2, and 90AR/10CO2. I haven't run it in 98ar/2oxy yet but it's something i'd like to try . So i think you can try any of those and still run spray transfer.

    BC

    Leave a comment:


  • BradJacob
    replied
    Originally posted by Dan
    Brad,

    you need 98% argon/ 2% oxy for you shielding gas, tap #7 for your voltage, and with an .030 E70S-6 around 80 on the wire speed, and you should end up with result similar to this- see attachment. However, like Andy has already stated, your running the machine towards the top end which puts you in the 30% to 40% duty cycle range, which should be fine for small hobbyist level project, but nothing that I try to use on high volume work.


    I definitely agree with Andy, for general purpose use short circuit transfer is the way to go. It will allow you to weld thin ga sheet and moderately thicker- 3/16" to 1/4". 1/4" though is were i tend to switch to spray arc if the structure is going to be used for anything critical.


    Brad, if your just wanting to stay with one gas mix stick with the C25, and just use the globular transfer settings that i discussed in my previous post on any critcal 1/4" welds. Well that is as long as you can get the joint into the proper position to use the metal transfer. Proper position would be flat for butt joints and flat and horz. for fillets.

    Thanks Dan - for your great info. I'll try it and get some pics out. Hopefully with some practice, I'll produce some welds of that grade

    Leave a comment:


  • 2002vlx
    replied
    Dan! Those welds are beautiful, and I'm sure they're as strong as they look good. Were those welded with a slight weave pattern, or what? You must have one **** of a steady hand(s). I always get a couple good shakes in there from this ol body during a bead.

    Leave a comment:


  • cope
    replied
    I can really tell the differecne in my arm stability as I get older. My son-in-law never used a Mig before sesterday. We picked up some 1/8" and 3/16" bar stock and cut it into 3" coupons. After Charlie welded uop the 1/8" on the HH140 I let him try the MM210. He was steady on the 140 but had trouble keeping the weld in the root of the joint, but his first weld with the 210 was beautiful. That's the difference in a young arm I guess.

    Leave a comment:


  • Danny
    replied
    Originally posted by ASKANDY
    Dan-
    Great, smooth weld. Are you part robot?

    Andy
    Yeah Andy, I got the eye and arm installed back in the 70's.

    Leave a comment:


  • Danny
    replied
    Originally posted by BradJacob
    Dan,

    Two more questions:

    1. Can you explain to me how I can spray with a 210?
    2. What is better for all-around use (Spray or short circuit) ??

    Thanks

    - Brad

    Brad,

    you need 98% argon/ 2% oxy for you shielding gas, tap #7 for your voltage, and with an .030 E70S-6 around 80 on the wire speed, and you should end up with result similar to this- see attachment. However, like Andy has already stated, your running the machine towards the top end which puts you in the 30% to 40% duty cycle range, which should be fine for small hobbyist level project, but nothing that I try to use on high volume work.


    I definitely agree with Andy, for general purpose use short circuit transfer is the way to go. It will allow you to weld thin ga sheet and moderately thicker- 3/16" to 1/4". 1/4" though is were i tend to switch to spray arc if the structure is going to be used for anything critical.


    Brad, if your just wanting to stay with one gas mix stick with the C25, and just use the globular transfer settings that i discussed in my previous post on any critcal 1/4" welds. Well that is as long as you can get the joint into the proper position to use the metal transfer. Proper position would be flat for butt joints and flat and horz. for fillets.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:

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