Do any of you guys have problems with pin holes when welding aluminum with your machines? I keep getting these pin holes or chicken pox marks when i'm welding. I always use a gas lens when welding aluminum. It doesn't matter what my settings are either, it keeps happening.
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dynasty 200/300 users - ALuminum ??
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You will always encounter some porosity when welding aluminum. It is impossible to produce a weld in aluminum where there is absoloutely no porosity. The amount of porosity can be limited though, with proper technique. The most important part of welding aluminum is that it has to be clean. Mechanically cleaning with a stainless wire brush will remove most of the oxide layer, and the adjustability with your machine (balance control) can be optimized for base metal condition. remember, though, that the aluminum oxide layer rebuilds immediately. cleaning with a brush and letting the piece sit for a while will not result in an oxide free surface. chemical methods can help in cleaning also, but he residue needs to be removed before welding. I found that even wiping the tig rod with a chemical cleaner, such as acetone, aids in the production of clean welds, with minimal pores.
hope his helps.
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post a pic of your affected weld, this wwill help to better diagnose the problem. And as sparx said the material must be cleaned imediately prior to welding. as I always say, when it comes to aluminum clean,clean, and cleaner is never enoughTrailblazer 302g
coolmate4
hf-251d-1
super s-32p
you can never know enough
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I've done Alum peices where i clean and clean and clean, and when i think it's clean enough, it's not, i've gotten peices where you start to weld and you see all the crap coming up and just sit on top of your weld puddle, even with the balance set on cleaning on my dynasty 200DX, it still doesn't work. Sometimes you just get those peices that you just can't clean enough.
BCBC
Dynasty 200DX
Coolmate 3
MM210 w/3035 spoolgun
Cutmaster 101
LC1230 12" Metal Cutting Saw
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Mike,
Even the base metal and filler metal type will affect how the weld bead looks. You may try a 5356 filler if the 4043 is giving you too much grief. Also gas flow should be fairly low when using a gas lens.( 10-20 depending on cup size)
I've even seen differences in gases when changing tanks especially the smaller tanks. I now only use the large tanks as they seem to be the best quality.
Andy
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Mike,
I have experienced what you are describing. It rarely occurs anymore. I run mainly with 75%helium and 25% argon shielding. I run this mix so the higher heat input will boil off and melt out oxide incusions that are otherwise left behind(trapped within the weld) with 100% argon. I am surprised you are having any problems! You are really good!
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Hey Hawk,
I was wondering when you were going to reply. This thread was made for youI have a tank of 75ar/25he laying around, i was just a little worried about the extra heat on the thin stuff. I was repairing a sheet aluminum oil pan and didn't want to blow it away to nothing. I do need to slow down a little and improve the cleaning prep for aluminum. Thanks again for the props Hawk, Mike.
Mike. R
Dynasty 300dx tig runner w/ 3 torch Versa-Tig torch changer {wt-20f, wt-24f, mt-125}
MM 251/30a/4015 roughneck
Miller portable spot welder
Inferno >>> Big Window Elite
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Mike,
I've been covered up lately with small jobs and field testing. I'm guessing your working with Al in the .030 to .065 range. I would not be afraid to run the Ar/25%He mix with a 200 PPS with 50% peak time starting in the 35 - 40 amp neighborhood. Sometimes 1100 filler will ease the pain of such "*******" alloys. 4043 is quite forgiving but sometimes a 5000 series yields better results on oil soaked alloys. I'll save the preaching for those that need the speech. Bottom line is your good and if it is weldable, I have no doubt you have what it takes to weld it. DON'T KILL IT. SKILL IT!
This is not really applicable to the oil pan, but I have found these pin holes to be more prevalent when running 4043 filler on 3000 series alloys. Agree- Yes, no , maybe???
You are welcome. Thanks for the post
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I agree totaly with you on the 3000 series!!!
It seems like the 3000 series takes the 4043, but doesn't really like it too well. I tried the 5356 this weekend and boy was it smooth. It lays down real nice. Mike.Mike. R
Dynasty 300dx tig runner w/ 3 torch Versa-Tig torch changer {wt-20f, wt-24f, mt-125}
MM 251/30a/4015 roughneck
Miller portable spot welder
Inferno >>> Big Window Elite
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Mike,,
Glad the 5356 worked in well. I am having problems getting ****** 3003 plate in .250". The supplier certifies it as such and all the stampings and papers match. Therefore, I have spent considerable time learning to weld this less than premium quality material. The 5356 sometimes works and 4047 is always a good choice where weldability is a problem.
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A company called Crown Alloys has just the filler rod
For your 3003. I use crown alloys for all my aluminum filler rod. They have a rod { R4145 }specially designed for your 3003. I've used this rod on 3003 sheet {.045-.069} and i can tell you it works awesome, and your totally right about 3003 {less than stellar}!!
Crown alloys {248}-588-3790
30105 Stevenson hwy
Madison Hts, Mi 48071Mike. R
Dynasty 300dx tig runner w/ 3 torch Versa-Tig torch changer {wt-20f, wt-24f, mt-125}
MM 251/30a/4015 roughneck
Miller portable spot welder
Inferno >>> Big Window Elite
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Mike,
I appreciate info. There is a stack of 3003 in the shop corner for the very reason of not finding a filler capable of "less than stellar" material. It's kinda funny because all the 5000, 6000,and 7000 series are premium quality! One of the component alloys must be bad. That will probably be a hard problem to solve. I'll give them a call and see if I can get a small qty headed out to try.
Thanks Again,
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