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  • Project pics

    Here are some photos of a new wood burner and sandblaster i built, the burner is a cut down oil tank and the sandblaster was made from a 30 gallon LP tank. I called my LP dealer asked what an LP tank is pressure rated at and he told me a tank like mine was pressure tested at 275 psi.

    I only need to sand blast very occasionally once or twice a year, and then I will only be running 90 lbs of air through it so I think I should be fine. I pressure tested it at 135 lbs for 20minutes without a hitch.

    Any suggestions or comments negative or positive will be appreciated thanks.


    http://photobucket.com/albums/v140/pre-ban/public/

  • #2
    Great job on both! I may use that wood burner idea. I'm building a new shop about 30'x50'and I think that the big wood burner would be a great way to heat the place.(It gets pretty cold up here on the hill).
    Randy
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    • #3
      Thanks Bulldog. If you have any questions just ask I'll be glad to help you .

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      • #4
        I really like the woodburner. Some great ideas and well thought out. I made one similar although not as fancy as I was pressed for time and needed it and it worked well enough that it hasnt been enough of an issue to upgrade it. I used firebrick in the bottom as it was fast no ashpan which it needs. I may do some copy from yours. It would be neat to make a kit for these for sale. I left mine 5 ft long. Yours is much nicer although I like my door quite well and will salvage it when I upgrade. If you stir this one it can go a long while without having to clean the ashes and with some ash buildup it holds heat and I dont have to relight fires. I think I will save your pics, maybe start on one as an ongoing project so it doesnt have to be done al at once,, again, very nice. Some of the best practical fab work I have seen here.
        Attached Files

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        • #5
          I also did the blaster thing. If I wanted a small one I likely would have bought one but I do a fair amount and have a cheap sand supply. I didnt need air dryer though. 100# LP tank, holds about 250# of sand and has a pull plug opening. I made a long wand and didnt use a dead man. I use 1/8 XXH pipe nipples for nozzels and buy them 6" and cut them in half.
          Attached Files

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          • #6
            Thanks Sberry, by your pictures I can tell your work is well thought out as well. I like the reversed top and pull stop on your blaster way better than mine. I would have prefered to use a pipe nipple & cap instead of a coupling and plug but i used what I had on hand at the time, but your's is the best way by far..



            Question, did I see your heater in a farm publication about a year or so ago?

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            • #7
              Yes, there have been several things in Farm Show, I dont remember them all now. I used a cone shaped runner grommet from a Ford pickup radius arm to make that plug. It fit a 2 inch pipe perectly. I put it all together before I welded the top in. Used a 3/4 bolt thru it with a washer on each side and after I squeezed it together I tacked the nuts just so it couldnt loosen and come apart in the tank. You should send your stove to Farmshow too,, its one of the nicest I have seen. It give some inspiration to make a new one. I see you tacked some angles along the side. Very good plan. I put some on the inside to try to keep the sides from warping too. I think on the next one I may cut the sides out about 2'x3' and weld 1/4 plate in just for stiffness and warpage control. The only thing that happened was a couple small cracks where the stiffners were weldd in at the ends of them, just hit them with the feeder again and it hasnt been a problem since. It took 5 or 6 yrs to show up and this thing has been in there for close to 10 yrs. A kit like they made for those barrel stoves would be cool. As you know the design time and all takes guite a while, especially coming up with a good door and jambs. My door is about 18x24 and I hung a hinged baffle on top. Its great to be able to stuff cardboard in, most boxes I dont even have to crush. I have since added some top air but need to play with it yet and move the intake. I need to move this upper air intake more towards the rear. I piped it so smoke didnt come out when the door opened. I was going to drip some drain oil thru the top durning paint jobs for some extra heat but didnt need it.
              Attached Files

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              • #8
                For it to last that long with only those small cracks you must be pretty close to being right on the money. I had to repair my neighbors wood burner once, he has the kind that ataches to his forced air furnace, it had cracks all around the wood burner's door frame and front panel and it was made out of 1/4 " plate steel.

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                • #9
                  I did my Dads furnace twice now, its only sheetmetal but has cast grates and side liners and it likely wouldnt have needed repair then had he been watching grate condition. Its about 20 yrs old. In my shop stove its lined up a bit with firebrick, most of the fire sits in there. I like yours though,, it just looks pretty, with some black its going to be special. As I said at first,, mine was rather crude by comparison. It was kind of whipped up except for the door. I made that quite well as I had some intention to redo this in the beggining. It just happened to function well enough that it lost its priority. I have a couple fans I move some air by this thing. Put enough wood and air into it and it will really roll the heat. One size larger chimney would have helped a little but I took the crane and set a 8 5/8 well casing thru the roof. Thats the biggest pipe I had. I insulated it all the way to help with draft. I jacketd it with alum sheet after it came thru the roof. You can kind of see it here.
                  Attached Files

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                  • #10
                    I could only find a piece of 8" auger flighting tube for the chimney starter tube at the time so i went with that, black chimney pipe (swagged end up) fits exactly over the outside with just the smallest amount of persuasion needed to get it to fit, a RCH couldn't fit in between them.

                    I got a good deal on some insulated pipe and a cathedral ceiling chimney installation box so I just bought that for the chimney. I had to keep the insurance extortioner happy.

                    Must be opening day for squirrel, I've heard 4 shotgun blasts about 3/4 of a mile from the house this morning, must be old Joe, God ain't it grand living in the country

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                    • #11
                      Sweet

                      i might have to make 1 of thouse sand blasters
                      not shoure i could cut enough wood for the stove i think i'll have to try somthing in the natral gas department if i heat the new shed still not shoure if i will try to heat it or just use it for storage and summer use
                      thanks for the help
                      ......or..........
                      hope i helped
                      sigpic
                      feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. [email protected]
                      summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
                      JAMES

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                      • #12
                        fun4now if you use a LP bottle make sure you know it's condition, you don't want to use one that could be rusted badly inside. Also the pressurizing of the bottle each time you use it could cause stress fractures/failure, for safety sake always check it over before you use it.

                        Our BBQ bottle gets refilled often during the summer, more times than I will ever use the blaster in a years time so in my situation I feel safe.

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                        • #13
                          Thanks Bulldog, I appreciate reading your comment.

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