Hooking Up Millermatic-210 In Garage (Electricity)

[BradJacob]

I'm buying a Millermatic 210 tomorrow and was wondering if anyone could tell me what exactly I need to do in regards to running the electricity into my garage? I understand that I'll need 220. I need to know what size breaker to install in the service-box and what gauge romex/wire do I need to run. And what type of female-plug outlet do I need?

Any info would be greatly appreciated!

[Reel-Break]

Brad to properly tell you this information I`ll need more info.name plate on the welder will have the primary current and there are some muitipliers for the duty cycle that could come into play.If you have access to a electrician in your area the information is in the NEC code artical is 630 electric welders.Maybe someone here can tell what they have on there welder if its the same type.

[timw]

For the MM 210 you can use a 30amp breaker. Use # 10 wire for up to 75' run. For the plug you need a 6-50R recepticle. 50R stands for recepticle, 50P is for plug (which comes on welder). You can get these at Lowe's or Home Depot.

[Ken]

I, too, am about to buy an MM210 and was wondering the same thing. I would like to have the MM251, but now we're talking a 60amp breaker.

What to do for either machine if there's no room in the breaker box?

[dcsound]

If there is no room in your breaker box, consult an electrician. There are special breakers with two circuits per breaker that may be installed to free up space and save you from installing a larger box, however they cannot be used for all types of circuits, which is why they should be installed by a qualified person. I use a lot of these at work as we are always adding electrical items.

[Sberry]

timw hit it right on the head. There are only a couple other things not exactly related to the welder. Is this an attatched garage or detatched?

[migmaniac70]

Oh no! Here we go again!!!

[Alex]

Personally, (and like everything else I do) I prefer to over-engineer electrical requirements. I've got a MM251 and I've got it wired with 6ga (30' run) on a two-pole 50A breaker with a 50A 3-socket receptacle. I don't ever want to feel my supply wire get hot. My electrical system gets 200A at 240V so the 50A breaker is plenty. Everything runs better when it's not struggling to get the juice it needs. You might try downloading the owners manual from Miller's site for electrical requirements for your MM210.

Weld on,
Alex

[hankj]

Brad,

Is the service panel in your garage? If not, are the house and garage attached? Those points, as Sberry pointed out, determine the correct code requirements for your situation. Let us know, we'll fill in the blanks.

Be well.

hank

[HAWK]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Alex
Personally, (and like everything else I do) I prefer to over-engineer electrical requirements. I've got a MM251 and I've got it wired with 6ga (30' run) on a two-pole 50A breaker with a 50A 3-socket receptacle. I don't ever want to feel my supply wire get hot. My electrical system gets 200A at 240V so the 50A breaker is plenty. Everything runs better when it's not struggling to get the juice it needs. You might try downloading the owners manual from Miller's site for electrical requirements for your MM210.

Weld on,
Alex [/QUOTE

Alex,

That is the only way to go for me-above and beyond the NEC. I just feel safer and know my equipment is happier. Most of my input cords are 4/4 SO with a max loading of 60 amps. My runs are no more than 65'.

BradJacob,

Countless posts on this subject throughout the forum: Here goes

The owners manual will give you all the recommended specs to adequately power the machine at its published rated duty cycle.

http://millerwelds.com/om/o1325k_mil.pdf

Start on page 4-11 and scroll through a few pages. It has Miller's data.

[Sberry]

I agree about looking at the manuals, I always look. Usually they are NEMA and NEC minimums for these types of machines. I think on the stickmates and thunderbolts the minimums are one size too light and a bit too long, not that it wouldnt work, but you are certainly allowed to upsize. With the MM210 I think the wire size is good if it is shorter than the allowable as the circuit requirements are only 30A for it. Lincoln had a few machines with funny ratings. Some way heavy and some way light. Most of the ratings in the manuals are fine although a bit long for my tastes and an upsize wouldnt hurt. More that is likely a waste. What tends to get under my skin on message boards is when its insised you "have" to do this or that and its a bunch of hearsay at best. A number 6 cord for a thunderbolt, while wont hurt, is totally unnecesary. A number 4 input cord for a machine that has a 60A input requirement isnt going to hurt,,, but,,, it isnt going to help either, no more than a number 8 cord. The only thing it does as you said,, it makes you feel better. When we quote something it should be , what is an adequate, safe and legal install.

[Sberry]

Here is somthing that worries me a bit. This is not to single anyone out, but as an example. "Most of my input cords are 4/4 SO with a max loading of 60 amps." We can get concerned with this conductor size,, is ths cord being installed on a single phase machine? If so does the installer have a grip on the more important issue of proper grounding? These machines use a 3 wire cord. What is being done with the 4th wire in this install?

[dcsound]

The 4th wire is not connected. SO cord is generally more available in 4 conductors than 3 conductors. The factory cords for single phase Miller and Lincoln welders have two hot conductors (black and red or two blacks) and a ground conductor (green). There is no neutral (white) connection. This works fine for 220v machinery, but other applications such as stoves, dryers, and situations where 110v is being split from the 220v require the neutral and four prong plug. There is also another version with a three prong plug that has a neutral and no ground, which is no longer code compliant. I will say that this is very confusing. I spent 15 years taking large sound and lighting systems into venues of all sizes, and very few had the power connections wired correctly, even those with house electricians. Somewhere I have a connector chart. I will post it as soon as I can find the file.

[Sberry]

I know how to wire it,, but was curious if the original poster of that thread understood.

[Alex]

Sberry,
I've read this thread from top to bottom and haven't seen one post that said you HAVE to wire it this way or that way. I certainly NEVER said that anyone HAD to follow my philosophy. It seems that most of us have referred Brad to the owners manual. I would certainly never contradict the manufacturer regarding MINIMUM requirements for powering one of their machines. As regards overkill, the cost of 1 (or even 2) gauge larger wire is minimal in contrast to the possibility of burning down your shop or damaging your machines.

Weld on,
Alex