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Alumimum TIG pictures for review

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    Steved
    Senior Member

  • Steved
    replied
    Thanks for the offer Gary but given this year's current budget I think that a toy like this will be a no-go. (According to my wife anyway)Hopefully over the next two years I can slowly convince her that a Dynasty 200DX is something that would look good in the garage!

    I could buy it but would only be able to offer a real low price and you would be able to get a better price if you sold it to someone else. Although if you do come up I will serve a mean steak!!

    Thanks for the offer and if you do come by this way let me know and I will show you the sites.

    Steve

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  • GaryM
    Senior Member

  • GaryM
    replied
    Well if you wanted it we could work out a way to ship it.

    Calgary is 610 miles away from me. that would cost me about $90 us to drive there.

    We could make it a nice litte weekend trip to Canada, since my wife has never been there it would be fun.

    Gary

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  • Steved
    Senior Member

  • Steved
    replied
    I did but I think that the shipping cost to Canada would be quite expensive.

    Something that I would like but.......

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  • GaryM
    Senior Member

  • GaryM
    replied
    Steved did you see that i have a Syncrowave 180 for sale?

    Gary

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  • Steved
    Senior Member

  • Steved
    replied
    Thanks for the clarification. I have a older machine and the only thing that the foot pedal does is start the HF.

    One day I hope to get a newer model that has current control with the foot.

    After attempting aluminum I can see where that would be a benefit when I start the welds it seems to take forever to get the first puddle and then off I go, adjusting on the fly would be a big help.

    -Steve

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  • GaryM
    Senior Member

  • GaryM
    replied
    You are right if I was using 150A all the time it would burn right away. The way its set up is

    There is a remote foot control fot the current. So if I set it at 150A that is the max that the unit will put out. Now what is being done is i press the foot peddel the arc starts if i press all the way its 150A if i press half way its only 75A.

    So like the weld showm above its started out hot maybe close to the 150, when my puddle gets going the peddle is let up to back off on the current and then addjust the current as I weld.

    I hope this helps you out.

    Gary

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  • Steved
    Senior Member

  • Steved
    replied
    Thanks for the pictures:

    GaryM: I notice that you are using a 3/32 electrode for 1/8" @ 150A.

    I am using a 1/16 and if I went to 150A (at a 30% duty cycle) I would have a puddle RIGHT now and would not be able to add filler rod. I tried all the way up to 125A and as you can see from the backside, the weld was punching through pretty hard.

    Would this be the normal speed that I should try for? I would guess that it would be about 10 seconds for 8" of bead then. (Seems real fast but I don't even know what normal travel speed is)

    What is the normal rate of travel for a bead?

    Does the 3/32" electrode make the job easier?

    I am also using 100% argon.

    Thanks for the help.

    Cheers,

    Steve

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  • jeffscarstrucks
    Senior Member

  • jeffscarstrucks
    replied
    I'de be inclined to agree, maybe a little slower with a more consistant pattern. if you can start the
    puddle then dab at the leading edge then move ahead,puddle,dab, puddle,dab, and so on in a very steady rythem you will get the results you are looking for. A slow smooth movement is what you are looking for. Then you can move on to a lap and a fillet. I think you are on the right track and should not feel the least bit funny about asking this question. You are way ahead of most who are starting out in classes at their local junior college TIG class. I can say that because I know where I was when starting class at the college where I work! Good Luck, JEFF

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  • GaryM
    Senior Member

  • GaryM
    replied
    Looks like you have eveything set up right just need to work on your pattern

    This weld i did with a syncrowave 180
    Set at 150A using the foot pedal.
    pure argon 15CFM
    3/32 Toriated Tungsten balled
    on 1/8 aluminum 5k series

    I just went out and did this on some scrap after seeing you post.

    You want to get your puddle going add you filler then move add filler then move. this is the way i was taught building aluminum jet boats.

    Hope this helps
    Gary
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  • Steved
    Senior Member

  • Steved
    replied
    Bottom_heatsink
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  • Steved
    Senior Member

  • Steved
    replied
    Top heatsink
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  • Steved
    Senior Member

  • Steved
    replied
    Bottom no_heat sink
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  • Steved
    Senior Member

  • Steved
    started a topic Alumimum TIG pictures for review

    Alumimum TIG pictures for review

    OK. Here we go. Attached are some pictures of my aluminum welds while moving the torch in the correct direction.

    (I feel like I am bareing my soul to all out there)

    The set up is:

    Miller Econotwin HF(all I have two year goal Dynasty 200DX)
    Tungsten: 2% Zirconiated, balled
    AC
    1/8" unknown aluminum.
    Aluminum first prepared by sanding and swabbing with rubbing alcohol.

    Currents vary, I have included pictures for both the topside and the backside with the various currents.

    I have also indicated if the welding was performed with a heatsink on the backing of the aluminum sheet. The heatsink was just my welding table. For the 'no-heatsink' welds, the aluminum was 1/4" off the table.

    If anyone has any suggestions I would like to hear them. If I were to make a guess I would say that the 80A - heatsink and 75A - no heatsink would be the decent welds.

    (OK not totally decent but the best of the batch!! )

    There will be multiple posts as I cannot post more than one picture at a time.

    Thanks for your comments.

    Regards,

    Steve
    Attached Files
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