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  • Tungsten Balling Up

    For some reason while trying to weld some .05 CR steel sheet my electrode is almost immediately balling up. I'm using DC and Puretung and the gas is argon. Do chillers sometimes stop working and if they do, what happens?

    I'm a novice but I can weld steel fairly well.

    -david
    Miller Syncrowave 250

  • #2
    Change Electrode

    Dcoffin,

    Try using 2% Thoriated Tungsten rather than the pure. Typically you use the pure in AC for Al.

    Comment


    • #3
      DCOFFIN,

      If the 2% thoriated tungsten alloy still gives problems, try a 1.5% lanthanated tungsten alloy. It is good for DCSP on any TIG machine and works great on inverters with their AC advanced squarewave arc.

      The lanthanated really handles the heat better than thoriated or ceriated. I weld AC and DC up to 300 amps on the Dynasty 300 DX with a 3/32" 1.5% lanthanated tungsten electrode.

      As a side note the zirconiated tungsten will work great with your Syncro 250 for AC! It balls well, does not drip, and leaves a tungsten free uncontaminated weld. It is great for film quality work.

      Comment


      • #4
        Lanthanated Tungsten in AC

        HAWK,

        When used for AC, does the lanthanated tungsten ball or retain a point?

        I've tried finding some Zir-Tung up here with no luck so far. Guess I'll be mail ordering some things soon.

        Thanks,

        John

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        • #5
          karish,

          The lanthanted tungsten alloy retains its shape on AC when used with the Dynasty 200 and 300 inverters. It is not designed for AC use on standard squarewave machines like the Syncrowave 250. What is your application with the zir tung?

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          • #6
            Zir-Tung use

            HAWK,

            Thank you for the reply.

            After reading some of your posts on the subject, I thought I'd try the Zir-Tung to see how it performed compared to the pure I have been using. Most misc hobby projects. Next thing to do is finish a tobbogin for my snowmachine and then maybe a hard top for an 8X8 wheel ARGO.

            I have an older Synchrowave 300 so the Lanthanated doesn't look like an option.

            Had a instance recently where I saw a green flash when I added some filler road (5356) and it appears to have coated one side of the inside of the cup. The electrode didn't appear to have Al on it. I did regrind, and reball to be sure. I had wiped the filler with Scotch bright and then with acetone. Will the metal on the cup cause problems? Does this sound like some bad filler, or am I make some mistake?

            Thanks

            Comment


            • #7
              Karish, that Green flash you saw was probably from the filler touching the electrode, or maybe the Northern Lights....Anyways, you didn't say if while welding the steel, you were using Electrode Positive or Electrode Negative, Electrode Negative is the setting used for steel, the Electrode Positive electrode can only handle 1/10 the amperage as Negative can. Hope this helps, Paul 'Roasting in Florida' Brown
              More Spark Today Pleasesigpic

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              • #8
                Dcoffin, sorry for addressing Karish instead of you, my eyes or brain deceived me, anyway use DCEN on steel, besides, it will give a prettier weld, none of that oxide blasting going on as when using DCEP...Paul
                More Spark Today Pleasesigpic

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                • #9
                  Re: Zir-Tung use

                  Originally posted by karish
                  HAWK,

                  Thank you for the reply.


                  Had a instance recently where I saw a green flash when I added some filler road (5356) and it appears to have coated one side of the inside of the cup. The electrode didn't appear to have Al on it. I did regrind, and reball to be sure. I had wiped the filler with Scotch bright and then with acetone. Will the metal on the cup cause problems? Does this sound like some bad filler, or am I make some mistake?

                  Thanks
                  karish,

                  As Paul said when the filler comes in contact with the tungsten it will flash you with different colors with green/blue being the most common. Toss the contaminated cup to be on the safe side. Cups are cheap. Good luck on your projects.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Aurora in the arc

                    HAWK and Paul,

                    I was using AC running a bead on Al. I thought maybe I had hit the electrode with the filler. So, I did it again being careful to not hit the electrode. Same thing. But, I will change the cup, clean the metal and try again being very careful to not hit the tungsten.

                    Thanks.

                    Comment

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