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  • TIG vs MIG

    Now, I'm not new to welding, having been a part-time welder for quite a few years. But, I'll be the first to admit there's a ton I don't know. Having said that, can anybody tell me the advantage of TIG over MIG aside from the obvious that it's frightfully slow, exceedingly difficult to master, and causes you to have to buy another machine and all the ancillary stuff that goes with it? Is the quality of the weld THAT MUCH better?
    Be cool,
    Alex

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  • #2
    Re: TIG vs MIG

    Originally posted by Alex
    Now, I'm not new to welding, having been a part-time welder for quite a few years. But, I'll be the first to admit there's a ton I don't know. Having said that, can anybody tell me the advantage of TIG over MIG aside from the obvious that it's frightfully slow, exceedingly difficult to master, and causes you to have to buy another machine and all the ancillary stuff that goes with it? Is the quality of the weld THAT MUCH better?
    For one thing, TIG has a much smaller heat affected zone which is important in many applications. The job you are doing will dictate which process is best.

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    • #3
      That's it? A smaller heat affected zone? Couldn't I accomplish the same thing by simply stitch-welding with my MIG machine? I honestly don't mean to sound like a smart-alec (smart-alex?) but it seems like a lot of extra work for a smaller heat affected zone.
      Be cool,
      Alex

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      • #4
        Alex,

        TIG is a fusion weld process. Filler is added as needed. On excellent fit ups and certain joint designs(edge and lap are a couple that will work depending on application)no filler is needed. By nature of the fusion process the TIG weld is the strongest and prettiest of all welds. It is also a very clean process. It does have a small HAZ, as COPE mentioned, and can be used to weld material as thin as .004" with precision. There are sub amp ranging machines capable of thinner. I have done from .004" hastealloy up to 1" aluminum. The process is highly versatile. You can weld almost any metal to nearly any other metal. The best reason for TIG is it's fun!

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Alex
          That's it? A smaller heat affected zone? Couldn't I accomplish the same thing by simply stitch-welding with my MIG machine? I honestly don't mean to sound like a smart-alec (smart-alex?) but it seems like a lot of extra work for a smaller heat affected zone.
          I din't go into all the intricacies, but it still boils down to what you are making. Most pipeline is still Stick, most chassis building is still Mig although Tig is becoming more common and more and more specialty fab work is Tig. Even stitch welding with Mig by the time a joint is welded the Tig will still have a much smaller HAZ.I saw this graphically deemosnstrated on a chemical hose wash tank I had fabricated for my ex-employer. The Wash Rack supervisor was too lazy too look at the plans up front so he failed to notice there was no port for installing a thermometer until after the tank was welded and painted. The weldor had done the job with Mig but had a guy over Tig welding some tank modifications for me. They sanded to bare metal a large enough circle to Tig in a pipe fitting and the HAZ didn't extend more than 1/4" outside the weld area. The same job with Mig would have required much more prep and paint touch up.

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          • #6
            HAWK/COPE,
            Thanks a heap for the clarification. I just couldn't see myself justifying a new Dynasty 200DX to my wife by saying "but Babe, it causes a smaller heat affected zone". Now, at least, I have SOME ammo.

            Many thanks,
            Alex
            Be cool,
            Alex

            FREEDOM ISN'T FREE
            SUPPORT OUR TROOPS

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Alex
              HAWK/COPE,
              Thanks a heap for the clarification. I just couldn't see myself justifying a new Dynasty 200DX to my wife by saying "but Babe, it causes a smaller heat affected zone". Now, at least, I have SOME ammo.

              Many thanks,
              Alex
              Alex, If that line works let us know if she has any single sisters. Sberry is looking for one liek that.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by cope
                Alex, If that line works let us know if she has any single sisters. Sberry is looking for one liek that.

                HAAHA!
                -Tanner

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Alex
                  HAWK/COPE,
                  Thanks a heap for the clarification. I just couldn't see myself justifying a new Dynasty 200DX to my wife by saying "but Babe, it causes a smaller heat affected zone". Now, at least, I have SOME ammo.

                  Many thanks,
                  Alex
                  Alex,

                  I did not realize you wanted a D200DX. Add this to your list: Anything over 115 amps on the air cooled torch is hard on the hands for extended periods. I really recommend ( as I have this set up on my 200DX) a coolmate 4 and a Miller Diamond Back #20 water cooled torch. In addition to being cool and comfortable it is extremely flexible! If you buy separate and smart it will ony run another $700 with all the needed parts as the contractor kit would run about $500. That's a lot of bang for the extra $200 bucks! It is really nice on the 200DX and a must on the 300DX!

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                  • #10
                    no filler

                    here is an example of fillerless outside corner can you do this with your mig?(and you get no wire LOL)


                    http://www.millermotorsports.com/mbo...&threadid=1173

                    i think the time to tig was werth it in this case, and he seems proud of it.i did similer weld with my mig on steel 14gage and had lots of cleanup and a bead on the inside
                    i gota agree with the fun factor also thats why im gettin a dynasty 200DX. (still saving my pennies and now with hawk's poast i got 20,000 more pennies to save )
                    thanks for the help
                    ......or..........
                    hope i helped
                    sigpic
                    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. [email protected]
                    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
                    JAMES

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                    • #11
                      Alex:
                      I'll be the devils advocate for mig, its easier to master less expensive equipment and many jobs can be done either way. I've built a garage door, a machine trolley, tables, and truck bumpers all in Aluminum plus alot of other builds in steel. I enjoy welding and currently mig is my flavor of choice but I am hoping to advance my tig skills and buy a D200DX tigrunner, but I have to have the skills first. BTW I really recomend the millermatic 210 w/spoolgun, its lots of fun and easy once you master the basic skills.

                      Peace,

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                      • #12
                        Thanks for the encouraging words PJS. I've got a MM251 already and I'm thinkin' about a push-pull gun for it. The XR Edge would be nice but I saw a post left by HAWK that said the Python would be a better choice.

                        Anybody know where a guy can get a good deal on a Miller Python?

                        Alex
                        (love that sound of fryin' bacon)
                        Be cool,
                        Alex

                        FREEDOM ISN'T FREE
                        SUPPORT OUR TROOPS

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                        • #13
                          Alex,

                          The Python gun with the 251 would be the better choice. No used ones around yet.

                          As for TIG,
                          Tig is for precision work and Mig is more for production. The precision of Tig can't be beat as well as the ability to weld many different types of material easier and better than Mig. The weld is better, stronger and smaller than that of a comparable Mig weld. The start and end tie in has better fusion which makes restarts better than Mig too.
                          It all comes down to what are you going to do mostly. I need both types and both are used heavily in my shop. I also don't use my hammer as a screwdriver either

                          Andy

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                          • #14
                            Hawk,
                            Where are you getting all pieces needed for $700.00? Torch kit, regulator, cooler and foot control? I looked prices up after seeing an earlier post on that and came up about $200.00 higher if I recall.
                            Manny

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                            • #15
                              Manny,

                              I have 2 dealers that I have worked with for a number of years. I really have not given it a second thought, but they must treat me better than most. Email me if you would like to give them a try. [email protected]

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