Tig welding alum.

[bill71762]

I've recently run into problems welding alum. Previously I've been able to run beautiful beads but recently it's been nearly impossible, the surface of the welds look rough and dirty and I can't figure out why, I've cleaned the material I've adjusted my gas flow there are no drafts in the shop, I've checked for leaks in my gas lines I've tried various tungstens I've changed regulators I've changed argon bottles, I've tried gas lenses, and now I'm at my wits end. HELP!!!!!

[timw]

The TIG Masters (not me) will want to know what machine you are using and metal thickness. You came to the right place,help is on the way.

[jeffscarstrucks]

Hi, I found some really oxidized filler rod caused me the same kind of problem some time back. You could see the floaters in the puddle when you touched it. The other thing that comes to mind is maybe a little less heat. The filler rod thing is a long shot but it got my attention that day. Good luck , JEFF

[swyzr191]

You didn't mention your base material.
I found that when I'm working with "rough" Alloys or SS, it is sometimes helpful to purge the tubing with your sheilding gas. You can't clean the inside of long tubing.
I just hillbilly it with some tape. Tape a hose in one end and tape the other end off and punch a hole in it. Be sure not to use to much gas though. You don't want a severe positive pressure. Just enough to clean up the atmosphere inside.
This is probably not your problem but I thought I would throw in my 0.02.
Also, is your machine working ok if you change process?
If it is an AC/DC machine - is the DC process stable?

[Wheels]

Bill
More information is needed here . Its like calling a mechanic and asking "why doesn`t my car start". There are people here who can diagnose your problem if given ALL the variables.

Take a few minutes and list everything you can think of , no matter how small it may seem. It is the detail that makes the difference!

Hope this helps

Mike

[bill71762]

tigging alum

The type of machine that I'm using is a miller syncrowave 350, and the material is 1/4" alum, diamond plate and the filler rod is 4043.

[fun4now]

scotchbrite youre rod

i think jeffscarstrucks hit a good point if you cleaned the plate well and you havent done aluminum in a wile i dought you forgot how but did you go get new filler or just pick up youre old stuff. scotchbriting your filler will go a long way i know people who scotch brite new filler just to be safe clean clean clean seems to be a big factor.
good luck and happy welding

[bill71762]

alum. tig problems

I guess I should say that diamond plate is 3003, and one of the things that I've noticed is that immediately upon striking an arc the area around where I strike the arc turns a black smutty color and there is discoloration of the tungsten, and sometimes a change in the color of the arc with some of what appears to be sparking or crackling. I've welded several of these assemblies without this problem, it just appeared on the most recent one and the only thing that has changed as far as I know is that I got a new argon cylinder, I thought that it might be contaminated so I got another one but the problem persisted.

[weldmedic]

Got to agree...Cleanliness is paramount

Perhaps following your cleaning try a wipe down with acetone or alcohol(caution is necessary obviously) or.. could your gloves possibily be contaminated or dirty? That can be an issue as well...
Good luck

[Wheels]

Bill

One of the most important things to remember about aluminum welding is to clean properly. Use nothing, such as grinding disks or wire brushes, which have come in contact with steel .
Use ss wire brushes , scotchbrite pads and acitone or laquer thinner to clean.
Also wipe filler rod with scotchbrite or very fine sandpaper.

Mike

[bail76]

Give your gas hoses a good check for a pin hole. With the gas flowing use a soapy water solution and a small brush and wipe down all the gas lines watching for bubbles as you go. Good luck.

[HAWK]

Re: alum. tig problems

Originally posted by bill71762
I guess I should say that diamond plate is 3003, and one of the things that I've noticed is that immediately upon striking an arc the area around where I strike the arc turns a black smutty color and there is discoloration of the tungsten, and sometimes a change in the color of the arc with some of what appears to be sparking or crackling. I've welded several of these assemblies without this problem, it just appeared on the most recent one and the only thing that has changed as far as I know is that I got a new argon cylinder, I thought that it might be contaminated so I got another one but the problem persisted.

BILL,

I HAVE HAD THE SAME PROBLEMS WITH 3003 FROM TIME TO TIME. THE ROUGH AND DIRTY BEADS ON 3003 MAY BE FROM POOR QUALITY "******" MATERIAL. TRY TURNING YOU BALANCE CLOSER TO 60%EN IF YOUR SYNC HAS THAT OPTION. ALSO SWITCH TO 1100 FILLER. THE 4043 IS RECOMMENDED ONLY AS A SUBSTITUTE IF 1100 IS NOT AVAILABLE. THE COLOR MATCH AND DUCTILITY WILL BE MUCH BETTER. YOU SHOULD GET BACK THE SHINE AND SLICK BEADS YOU HAVE LOST. LET ME KNOW. IF YOU HAVE CONTINUING PROBLEMS, EMAIL ME THROUGH THE FORUM OR [email protected],

YOU MAY BE ONTO THE ROOT PROBLEM WITH CHANGING THE GAS. MAKE SURE NO ONE HAS MESSED WITH YOUR FLOW SETTINGS. THE TUNGSTEN DISCOLORATION SOUNDS LIKE A GAS PROBLEM. I HAVE ALSO HAD THAT PROBLEM WHEN A GAS LENS GOES BAD. JUST GO BACK TO THE STANDARD COLLET AND BODY TO TEST THE THEORY. A BAD GROUND CAN CAUSE SIMILAR SYMPTOMS.

SOMEONE MAY HAVE MENTIONED THIS AND I MISSED IT: ZIRCONIATED TUNGSTEN IS KING ON THE SYNCROWAVE. GIVE IT A TRY SOMETIME. HIGH HEAT CAPACITY AND NO BOIL OFF-NICE CLEAN TUNGSTEN FREE WELDS!


CLOSE ATTENTION TO CLEANING OF MATERIAL AND FILLER, AS OTHERS HAVE ALREADY MENTIONED, CAN MAKE THE DIFFERENCE ON STUBBORN MATERIAL. I USE SCOTCH BRITE AND ACETONE ON THE MATERIAL AND FILLER. AN ANGLE DIE GRINDER WITH THE ROL-LOC PADS REALLY MAKES SHORT WORK OF CLEANING ALUMINUM TREAD PLATE. DON'T BEAR DOWN TOO HARD AND POLISH OFF YOUR DIAMOND TREAD.

[HAWK]

bill71762,,

I have a genuine interest in your problems as I have fought them before. Please post or email and let me know what happens. I have made some other adjustments as well since I do a lot of 3003 1/4" material. I'll be glad to share. Sometimes too much information, or as my wife says TMI, can be confusing. Please keep me informed.

Thanks a bunch and the best of luck!!!

[bill71762]

Hawk, I appreciate the good suggestions and I will definately try the 1100 filler rod and make absolutly sure my base metal is clean, I have been using zirconated tungsten, I've tried them all zirconated. ceriated and pure and I've found the z to be the best also, I'll give it another shot in a couple of days and keep y'all posted, once again thanks for the help.

Bill

[ASKANDY]

It still sounds like some sort of gas problem with the tungsten discoloring and a black area around the weld puddle.

Is your bottle near empty or can you change the bottle with a new one to check purity? Also if you have an extra torch, it may be the problem there too or even if you dress your tungten on a grinder that was used for anything else, that would cause the same problems.

Andy