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  • H80N
    replied
    Twisted Screw??... Culprit???

    Could it be that... the damaged screw was cranked down hard enough to collapse the liner and be the major cause of binding/birdcaging of the mig wire??? when you do get it apart ....would take a close look at the liner where the retaining screw made contact for evidence of crushing... and when replacing..that screw it should be just snug enough to capture and retain the liner and no tighter... if worried about it loosening use a little bit of blue locktite on the threads...
    just a thought.....
    hope this helps
    Heiti

    Leave a comment:


  • klsm54
    replied
    Originally posted by wrench3047
    .... and the screw that holds it in place twisted in half. The threads got really stripped the last time it got put together. ..... I'm debating replacing some parts or trying to extract and retap the hole.
    It never ceases to amaze me at how someone can destroy a machine over such little problems. That is where a good distributor sales or counter guy is worth his weight in welding wire. Anybody familiar with these, or any wire feed welder, could diagnose and fix 95% of feeding problems in 10 minutes and get the parts you need to fix it for a few bucks. Obviously the guy who owned this machine both A. Was not the least bit familiar with wire feed welders, and B. Did not know a dependable distributor salesman or counter guy.

    Of course, the Weldpak 100 is a discount store special, not sold through us welding supply stores, so some distributors, understandably so, do not like to service them. One big drawback of those red machines that are only sold through discount houses.

    Good luck on fixing up your machine. If you can take it to somebody familiar with this type of machine to help you out, it may save some headaches.

    Leave a comment:


  • gangel99
    replied
    I had a similar problem with my Red SP135+ running flux core. It turned out that the spindle supporting the wire spool did not have enough friction to keep it from unwinding. I'd do a weld, the rollers would pull the wire, and when I stopped the weld (and the rollers) the spool kept on unwinding a bit from interia.

    There is a very easy, but temporary fix. Put some thin masking tape on the spindle increasing the friction. It's temporary because eventually the tape wears off - but it lasted me a small roll of flux core.

    Leave a comment:


  • wrench3047
    replied
    thats good to know. I was removing the gun from the machine today and the screw that holds it in place twisted in half. The threads got really stripped the last time it got put together. When I get back from training I'm going to have to perform surgery . I'm going to be gone from early on 15 May til about the last week in June. I'm debating replacing some parts or trying to extract and retap the hole. Thanks for all the info and helping a soldier that likes to melt metal together.

    Leave a comment:


  • cnslmva
    replied
    Just a small tidbit, most of the "Red Guns" are rebadged Tweco guns parts are cheap and plentiful. I just bought a Lincoln M400 Mig gun because my supplier could get it cheaper than the Tweco model. After getting it home I discovered that it was a Tweco in a Lincoln box.

    Good Luck!

    Leave a comment:


  • klsm54
    replied
    Try though I might, I could not get the links to post here for the parts list and owners manuals for the WeldPak 100. They are available at Red Website

    Just got to the quick links at the top center of the page and choose owners manuals from the drop down menu. After you get the list of owners manuals up, it is about 5 or 6 pages into the list. The is an "IM", instruction manual, and a "P" number, parts list. You can download either of them, altough the IM is not showing a parts breakdown.

    In the parts list, you will see that there is a hex-head set screw on the gun adaptor (at the back end of the gun adaptor) that holds the liner in. After you lossen that, the liner should pull right out.

    I have had luck in taking the liner out and soaking it in a cleaning solvent before blowing it out with air. New liners are not that costly if you suspect trouble with it. There should be no place where the wire has to bridge much of a gap after it passes through your drive rolls. Both at the back of the gun, and as it leaves the liner to go into the tip adaptor and contact tip. Too short of a liner can cause bad feeding problems. If you replace the liner, make sure you don't cut the new one off too short.

    Clean wire is a must, if it has sat around and gotten rusty, it is going to clog the liner and give you feeding troubles real quick.

    I suspect that you have a simple problem causing this, it just may take some tinkering and fine tuning to find it.

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    wrench3047
    as Andy249 suggested.. try cleaning the liner etc.. you may be able to improve things by removing the wire from the liner..and removing the tip... then blowing out the liner with compressed air ... you might be surprised how much crud gets pulled up into the liner along with the wire... after that rethread the wire into the gun and see how it feeds without a tip on it... IF it feeds smoothly without birdcaging.. try putting the tip back on and see how it feeds... would use a new one.. they are cheap enough.. (also check for kinks.. usually where the cable leaves the power supply or at the gun).. nother thing... make sure that you are trying to feed CLEAN shiny wire... nasty wire will hang up in any liner.. new or old..
    compressed air is the easiest way to clean out a liner... if that fails then by all means replace the liner...
    hope this helps
    Heiti

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul Seaman
    replied
    Wrench:
    The weldpak100 is a nice piece of equipment, I started on one of these as my first welder and we still use it at the race garage and take it to the track for possible breakage. These guns are light and somewhat fragile but the cost of replacement is not that bad. Also as I remember the hose has a posative stop inside the power supply.

    Good luck,

    Leave a comment:


  • wrench3047
    replied
    thanks I'm going to try to tear it today, if I get over there. I don't think I will put any money into it unless he gives it to me.

    ps I found the manual on the lincoln website last night

    Leave a comment:


  • hankj
    replied
    3047,

    Do two things. First, get the manual for the machine. Second, tear down the gun, replace the liner and any other replacable parts (I don't know anything specific about "Red" guns), check the wire drive mechanisim and replace the drive roller if necessary, and start over. Once you've done all this, if the machine still fails to feed wire, junk it and buy a Blue one.

    Be well.

    hankj

    Leave a comment:


  • wrench3047
    replied
    Since I don't have the it here to look, where is the nut holding the liner most of the time. I haven't been able to mess with mig much. mostly stick and oxy.

    Leave a comment:


  • wrench3047
    replied
    I would get a pic but the machine isn't here at my place. It's a (lincoln weldpak100)and it's been abused a little, ok alot. I had to break the trigger a little more to unstick.

    Leave a comment:


  • Andy249
    replied
    Usually you would disconnect the gun cable from the unit, from there you should be able to undo a nut that holds liner in place and just pull it out. Don't chuck your old liner until you have the new one so you can measure up and cut the new liner to length.

    If you have a webcam or digital camera get a piccy so we can see what you are working with! A picture is worth a thousand words they say.

    Regards,

    Andy249

    Leave a comment:


  • wrench3047
    replied
    I thought It should be close. Like I it's a small machine. A hobbist model. Once the wire leaves the roller in goes into a 1 inch liner before the gun and can't see past that. The mess is almost a quarter inch thick of balledup wire. Is it viable to say if the gun doesn't seat completely it could cause this?

    Leave a comment:


  • ASKANDY
    replied
    The liner should meet right to the end of the drive roll without actually touching them. The closer the better chance the wire won't push around the inlet to the liner.

    A-

    Leave a comment:

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