wire speed traking

[cymax]

i see
well i would need the schematics to see
or design a completely know board that would be an option

there is a dude i don't remember the web site
he made the circuit board for his homemade mig it was designed for a 115 volt i wonder if it would work for a 230 volt

[Danny]

Originally posted by cymax
i see
well i would need the schematics to see
or design a completely know board that would be an option

there is a dude i don't remember the web site
he made the circuit board for his homemade mig it was designed for a 115 volt i wonder if it would work for a 230 volt

You do realize eliminating the wirespeed tracking would void your warranty.

[DDA52]

Originally posted by Dan
Don,

Im not trying to insult anyone with my post, just curios myself.

. No worries, Dan. No insult was rcd. I appreciate your insight and weld pics. Gives us mere mig mortals something to shoot for.

BTW, the MM 135 parameter chart in my owners manual shows 10 and 60 for an .030 wire and c-25 on 1/8" steel.You really need all the voltage that your machine will output when welding 1/8" with solid wire so I think that the 10 voltage setting might help your weld bead wet out a little more over the 8 setting.

Really?!? Mine has 8/75 in the book and on the door! Is it an age thing? Mine is about 2 1/2 yrs old. I'll try the higher settings whenever I get it back from the welder hospital. (they still haven't looked at it! ) That was my next monkey session project....more heat!

Don

[Danny]

Originally posted by DDA52
Really?!? Mine has 8/75 in the book and on the door! Is it an age thing? Mine is about 2 1/2 yrs old. I'll try the higher settings whenever I get it back from the welder hospital. (they still haven't looked at it! ) That was my next monkey session project....more heat!

Don

Don

Miller modified there settings for the MM 135 and 175 a few years back. My manual is dated July 2002. The January 2004 manual has the same 10 and 60 settings in it.

[DDA52]

Thanks Dan,
I checked and my book is Jul./01. Switched over to Miller's manual page and downloaded the latest manual. Man, you weren't kidding they changed the settings! Might help with some bead probs that won't quite go away. I'm gonna call the welder hosp tomorrow and tell them to get me a new chart when they order my parts.
Thanks again.

Don

[DDA52]

Dan
Found out the reason for the different door charts..... different weld card/boards. Turns out mine is cooked and will be replaced along with the door chart. The parameters I was using were supposedly correct for the old board.

[moe1942]

Wire speed tracking

I have a new (three months old) MM175 and I am not real proficient at MIG welding. My previous welding was done with a MM135 and a low power Century. After reading all the posts on this subject, here and other boards, I am begining to think the MM175 was a bad choice.

I have only used it to make a few tack welds on a Cub engine hood so I haven't really experienced the problems stated.

How do you correct things if the door chart isn't right. From the sounds of things you are screwed. Can't you tune it in better with the WFS and voltage controls?

The weather is getting nice and I will begin welding shortly. Sure would be nice to have this subject a bit cleared.

Please rescue this stick weldor from his state of confusion.


moe1942

[ASKANDY]

Moe,

You are confused. The door chart for your unit is correct for whatever power pcb is installed. If you have purchased your unit in the last year or so, you have the most current board. The older units had a different calibration of the wire speed pot and therefore needed different door chart settings. If your unit is older and goes in for service, the pcb will be updated and a new chart installed. You didn't make a bad choice and you can tune this unit in perfectly. You still have full wire speed and voltage control, it just compensates for any voltage adjustments you make so you will not have to make wide wire speed adjustments when going to different material thicknesses. You can still look for that sizzle sound that was mentioned earlier. People who want to disable the nice function of wire tracking should rethink that. There is no reason a skilled welder shouldn't be able to adapt to this easier to use system but if they want to redesign the pcb and potentially damage the unit....have at it. Running voltage directly from the pot won't cut it. The pot can't handle the motor current. It drives a transistor circuit that is pulse-width modulated which intern drives the motor. Cymax, just let me know the serial number so I can put notes on the serial number history as this will void the warrenty. I hope you find what you are looking for and I am sorry this has caused you so much grief. If not, I hope you do upgrade to the MM210.

Good luck all!

Andy

[moe1942]

Wire speed tracking

Andy,

Thanks for the reply. Between this board and the Hobart board I have read a ton of posts on this subject, mostly negtive. That was the reasoning for my question. I used a MM135 at trade school a few years back and didn't have any trouble.

I have lived long enough to value the advice of experts. I will disregard future posts on the subject. I know I will have more questions but will base them on my own experience.

Incidentally, my ser# is LC654597, purchased in Dec 2003. Is that a new unit or NOS?


Thanks

moe1942

[MAC702]

Re: Wire speed tracking

Originally posted by moe1942
I am begining to think the MM175 was a bad choice.

I have only used it to make a few tack welds on a Cub engine hood so I haven't really experienced the problems stated.

Moe, I really would not be worried if I were you. I've used my MM175 quite often in the past two years. I love it. The door chart has always been dead-on.

I am one who had a problem with mine, when the trigger began to stick on. Then, even when the trigger no longer stuck, it would still not disengage. But Andy and Miller are in the process of taking care of me and that's all that really counts. I am a dyed-blue Miller fan, and the customer service that I have received from the Miller technical department is worth its weight in gold. If you have a question that the person on the phone can't answer, THEY WILL TRANSFER YOU TO THE GUY THAT DESIGNED THE MACHINE. You can't get that anywhere else, so like Andy said, if you upgrade, get the MM210.

[Danny]

Andy,

Since I can t contact you via E mail could you contact me. I want to pass on some info to you about the MM 175 that I can t post on this forum.

[moe1942]

Wire tracking

Mac702,

Thanks for the feedback, and I too am a true blue fan.

I have always been partial to "Blue" but really became a fan when they helped me with my antique(1961) AEA-200-L engine driven welder. That is service after the sale.

In case anyone is curious why I have a new welder and haven't used it; I weld outside my shop on a slab under a cover and the weather has been very wet and cold. I am itching to start some projects and want to get familiar with this machine before I do. I have gotten great info and help at this forum.

I'm glad to hear your problem is being worked. Would you give us the fix when you get back in business? I plan on printing out info pertinent to my equipment. That way I won't have to ask the same questions.


moe1942

[cymax]

hello andy
no i will not give you my serial number of my machine i think that day someput something in my coffe .
i just talked to a tech rep at miller
he told me that insted of changing the voltage i should change only the wire speed
this is somewhat confusing now
you say one thing he says something else

so plz tell me what to do
i was alwas under the impression that the voltage controlled the heat and that the wire speed controlled tha amps of the machine
now i am being told that the wire speed controls the heat
all this controll seams to make my head spin

none the less the upgrade to the 210 will be in several month from now.

[Danny]

Originally posted by cymax
hello andy
no i will not give you my serial number of my machine i think that day someput something in my coffe .
i just talked to a tech rep at miller
he told me that insted of changing the voltage i should change only the wire speed
this is somewhat confusing now
you say one thing he says something else

so plz tell me what to do
i was alwas under the impression that the voltage controlled the heat and that the wire speed controlled tha amps of the machine
now i am being told that the wire speed controls the heat
all this controll seams to make my head spin

none the less the upgrade to the 210 will be in several month from now.

Cymax,

Make things easy for yourself, for $50 to $100 you can get a clamp on DC amp meter from Sears. Hook an amp and volt meter up to the machine an have someone dial in the machine to output the voltage and amperage that you are looking for as a starting point for the material thickness you are welding. After this you can lightly fine tune the settings.

Question, if you are only suppose to play with the wire speed setting why have a variable volt control? As you increase the amperage output (wire speed) the voltage output is going to drop so in some cases you are going to need to increase the voltage too, especially since you are using CO2, which is a little more finicky to tune a machine in with.

[cymax]

dan i don't know ask the tech rep at miller
i have to call my welding supply store to see if they can lend me a c25 botle for a couple of days to give it a try

i wondre by how much does the wire speed slow down when you have the voltage pot set at 5 for example ?

there should be a relation
ei at 50% and voltage pot at 10 = ~350 ipm
at 5 what would it be etc