wire speed traking

[cymax]

ok here it is the question

What does wire speed traking do
from what i understand as i increace the voltage the speed of the wire increaces.

i would like to know if there is any way of disabeling this feature on my mm175
i was tought old school and now i am in a position were i am not enjoing my welder

if there is no way of doing so then plz do explain to me how am i to use this feature since there is no real explenation in the users manual

i usually set up my wire speed and then increace my voltage until i read about 19- 20 volts on my meter. am i doing someting wrong

[MAC702]

I have never had a problem with the wire speed tracking on my machine. I use the settings on the door chart and weld away. A few times when out of position, I adjust accordingly, but no big deal.

I really don't see why this keeps getting brought up as an issue, and would like to know why you feel this makes you not enjoy the welder anymore.

To be honest, if you are at the level of constant welding with specified parameters, you probably need to upgrade to a bigger machine anyway.

[cymax]

mac702
my issue is not with the welder it self it's with this added technologie.

here is a quick example
welding 1/8 mild steel using .030 wire you would get 2* 125=250 ipm

now on the welding i would se 250 ipm at about 35%-40% now how do you set up the voltage ? on and older welder with out wire tracking you would listen for the crackle eggs frying or what ever you wan to call it
now you can't really do that because you wire speed will adjust to what ever you voltage will be. if voltage is set at 2 and and wire speed at 30 then the tracking will compensate for the lack of volatge. by reducing the wire speed. the wire tracking is great on a machine using tap not infinite voltage.

i am actually thinking of upgrading to a millermatic 210 wonder how much i would get my mm175 at trade in

[DDA52]

Originally posted by MAC702
I have never had a problem with the wire speed tracking on my machine. I use the settings on the door chart and weld away. A few times when out of position, I adjust accordingly, but no big deal.

I really don't see why this keeps getting brought up as an issue,

Ditto

I can understand frustration with the little guys, I dealt with it a bit also. Once I adjusted my thinking and used the door chart as a starting point, things were a good bit friendlier. Let the machine tell you what to set it at rather than vice-versa. It just might be "friendlier" to use. Once you get used to using the door settings, you won't even notice the WST. You'll be too busy makin' sparks!

[Danny]

Mac, or anyone else for that matter,

I really would like to see some pictures of the welds that you are producing using the door chart settings. All the door chart settings ever produced for me were welds that contained a high level of spatter. The MM 175 has the potential to produce near spatter free welds acrossed the entire material thickness range that it is capable of producing sound welds on however, like I ve stated, the door chart setting didn t produce the spatter free weld quality that i exspect from a machine. Using my amp/and volt meter however did get me to the weld quality that i exspect (see attachment). Personally, I feel that the MM 175 would be a much better machine and more user friendly if the wire speed tracking was eliminated from the machines design.

[Danny]

Originally posted by cymax


i am actually thinking of upgrading to a millermatic 210 wonder how much i would get my mm175 at trade in

Cymax,

The MM 210 is an awesome machine. The arc quality with an .030 E70S-6 and C-25 is excellent. The door chart setting are pretty solid too. The MM 210 is definitely a more user friendly machine then the MM 175.

Here is a look at a MM 210 weld ran on 1/8" (see attachment). This weld was produced using the door chart settings (tap #3 and 50 on the wire speed)for an .030 E70S-6 and C-25.I ve had my amp and volt meter hooked up to the machine and these door chart settings give me an amperage reading between 138-143 amps and around 18.2 volts. These are perfect voltage and amperage values for 1/8".

[DDA52]

Dan
would a MM 135 do? Here's one from a "monkeying around" session.
1/8" mild steel - E70S-6 wire @ .030 with C-25 gas @ 22- v-8 & ws-75 (same as door chart) WARNING: THIS WELD IN NO WAY COMPARES TO DAN'S WELDS!!

[DDA52]

I know it isn't the greatest bead, but it is all I had since the MM 135's in the hospital....still!!
Dan
Is that what you're looking for? Little splatter? I'm just curious. I only use the door chart as a starting point, not as gospel. That's why I have these "monkeying around" sessions, to get it right before I actually screw something up! I've seen your welds and respect your work and opinions. I'm not trying to contradict you, just learn.

Don


BTW, the rust is after the fact.

[cymax]

Dan
i know what you are talking about when comparing the 2 machines ei mm175 mm210
i had a chance to run the mm210 and give it a test drive it's a reall good machine .
i don't like being told what to do with my mm175 and this is basically what is happening

i use strait co2 for welding due to some financial reasons and i have a botle! the settings in the door are hot that is what i first noticed.

i wonder if the relation ship beteween the wire speed and voltage is liniar?

BTW i also removed 1/8 from my cone and it's been a bit better since mabe due to the fact that i can hold the stick out closer to 1/4 inch.

ther should be a way to remove this wire speed tracking all i need is the schematic of the pc board miller plz

[Danny]

Originally posted by cymax
Dan
i know what you are talking about when comparing the 2 machines ei mm175 mm210
i had a chance to run the mm210 and give it a test drive it's a reall good machine .
i don't like being told what to do with my mm175 and this is basically what is happening

i use strait co2 for welding due to some financial reasons and i have a botle! the settings in the door are hot that is what i first noticed.

i wonder if the relation ship beteween the wire speed and voltage is liniar?

BTW i also removed 1/8 from my cone and it's been a bit better since mabe due to the fact that i can hold the stick out closer to 1/4 inch.

ther should be a way to remove this wire speed tracking all i need is the schematic of the pc board miller plz

I assumed you were using Co2 based on your previous 19 - 20 volt statement. I ve talked with the Millermatic product manager, and he admitted that the door chart settings were purposely a little on the hot side, considering that most of these units are going to be purchased by non-trained hobbyist weldors.This was also the reasoning behind the wire speed tracking use on the machine.

I take it from cutting the 1/8" off your nozzle that you have read some of my previous posts.

Eliminating the wire speed tracking is obviously possible, and doing so would more than likely make this a much better unit.

[Danny]

Originally posted by DDA52
I know it isn't the greatest bead, but it is all I had since the MM 135's in the hospital....still!!
Dan
Is that what you're looking for? Little splatter? I'm just curious. I only use the door chart as a starting point, not as gospel. That's why I have these "monkeying around" sessions, to get it right before I actually screw something up! I've seen your welds and respect your work and opinions. I'm not trying to contradict you, just learn.

Don


BTW, the rust is after the fact.

Don,

Im not trying to insult anyone with my post, just curios myself.

With solid wire on 1/8" your MM 135 shouldn t have a spatter problem, because even at the maximum volt setting the machine is going to output a slightly lower voltage then what is considered ideal for 1/8" so the wire is going to pinch off pretty close which should give you a very smooth arc. The MM 175 on the other hand has the potential to output a voltage beyond ideal for 1/8"- just slightly too much voltage can cause the wire to pinch off long which will lead to unwanted spatter.

BTW, the MM 135 parameter chart in my owners manual shows 10 and 60 for an .030 wire and c-25 on 1/8" steel.You really need all the voltage that your machine will output when welding 1/8" with solid wire so I think that the 10 voltage setting might help your weld bead wet out a little more over the 8 setting.

[cymax]

dan,
yes i have read some of your previous posts

in regards to the the removal of the wire tracking i read on the the hobart post that when at 10 the wire motor receives ~20volts
the trick would be to directly route the 20volt from pot to the motor
this would have to be donne at the exit of the circuit that only controls the wire speed .

[hankj]

I run my MM135 at V=8, Speed = 35, using Co2 for 3/16 stock with excellent results. I posted a note about the tracking option when I had to fabricate a new mulching cover for my mower deck out of 22ga. - I liked it - it worked fine a V=2 and Speed =30.

Be well.

hankj

[cymax]

BTW dan if you have msn email me and i can add you to my list

[Danny]

Originally posted by cymax
dan,
yes i have read some of your previous posts

in regards to the the removal of the wire tracking i read on the the hobart post that when at 10 the wire motor receives ~20volts
the trick would be to directly route the 20volt from pot to the motor
this would have to be donne at the exit of the circuit that only controls the wire speed .

The problem is that output voltage from the board to the motor pot motor comes from the setting that you have the voltage dial set to so as you adjust your voltage this output is going to vary.