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Spec 625 Tips and consumables

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  • Spec 625 Tips and consumables

    I just purchased the Spectrum 625 last week... I'm really anxious to try it out, but a little scared. As already mentioned here, the manual is quite vague! I haven't even seen any mention on what tip does what. Could somebody shed light on the subject. What does the longer one of the set do? Which one should be purchased for gouging and how does it work! Any info would be appreciated

    Thanks guys!

  • #2
    Plasma Tips


    The longer tip is used to cut with a standoff distance of 1/8" or so. Just keep the tip 1/8" above the surface. Be sure to use the solid cup that lets the tip stick out. The cup with the X on it is for dragging the cup. It actually creates the stand off for you. Use the X cup with the shorter tip. You may have some long and short electrodes as well. I think the long electrode is for the stand off tip and the short electrode for the drag tip. You will know when they match. Otherwise you won't be able to get an arc and the torch light on the front panel will light up. I don't think you get gouging tips with the unit. Just ask your dealer. They will point you in the right direction. If not, Let me know and I'll get you part numbers.


    • #3
      If you check the consumables compartment door there are pictures with part numbers on tip set up. Like HAWK said the tip with the 4 dots on the front is for drag cutting. You put the tip on your work and just drag it to cut. To judge your cut speed, if you go too fast the sparks won't come out the other side and your cut won't go all the way through. To cut a straight line just use a 2X4. It cuts so fast that the board dosen't really burn and the height of the 2X4 makes an easy guide.If you want to start a cut in the inside of your metal instead of starting at the edge, tilt the torch to the side to let the sparks escape until you are through the metal, then straighten it up and cut.
      The stand off tip is just that. You get it close and the arc starts and you can make through cuts or you can wash the metal away with it like you are carving to make a better fit. I use it to cut frozen bearings off a 1 1/2" shaft. The arc will come out almost an inch if you back away, I also cut the heads off 1/2" bolts (3/4") by washing them off like you would do with a torch.
      I ordered the gouging tip and I really don't use it. It's not cheap either.I tried it and found I liked the stand off the most. You can turn the heat up or down and back off some on the air to get the same results.
      I've been using VERY dark cutting glasses, I couldn't see with my hood. With the stand off I need to cover up my arms, they felt a little sunburned when I didn't. I've had my 625 since January and I love it!! Good luck with yours, it's a great machine.


      • #4
        What about the Amps... how do you chose the proper setting... I've used it for the first time today, to cut a 3 inch length of 3/8" steel. Couldn't believe the amount of air required. I haven't installed a second 240 outlet in the shop yet so I had to unplug the compressor after it had a full charge. Well one pass of the width and it was at roughly 75 psi... time to shut her down! Well a new compressor was in the works for next week already so... will have to wait till then to try it again!


        • #5

          Since timw owns a 625 and I have the 2050, he can probably give you a better description. This is how it works on the 2050 and they are similar machines. Set the amperage knob all the way CCW and it will let the air flow free through the torch. When this happens set your regulator on the plasma cutter @ 72PSI or the speciified pressure for the 625. I think 72 PSI is correct, but double check to be sure. It should say on the machine frame on the front or maybe the back. I generally cut with the amperage wide open. If you cuts are rough looking and your travel speed is correct, turn down the amperage a bit.


          • #6
            I just double checked the owners manual, it says 75psi for cutting, 55psi gouging. As HAWK said if you turn the amp knob all the way down it goes to air only and you can set the regulator pressure. The pressure gage has 2 green marks at these settings and I have been using them. If you run low on air the machine will shut itself down so you won't burn up your tips. I turned off my air line (by accident) and it stopped working. It does use a lot of air but that is the key to this system. It post cools the tip area, shortly after a cut the tips can be changed and are not hot to the touch. The cooler the tip runs the longer it lasts.
            I'm still learning amp settings, I run about 30amp and it cuts everything so far. If I am stand off cutting like an inner bearing race off of a shaft, I turn the amps down which gives me better control of depth of cut without cutting into the shaft. I have also turned the air down to cut out a weld without cutting too deep. I guess it's like an Oxy/Act torch, if you tried to tell someone the finer points of using it, it would be difficult. It just takes practice.


            • #7
              Cool... lots more info than what was included in the guide... I was quite dissapointed. The MM210 came with a video, that was great. Really too bad, Miller should include them with all their equipement. All give that a try when I get the new compressor...